Had a "spot" of white spot which killed 14 of my fish and left me with 3. I medicated every 2 days and did a 10% water change daily.My carbon filter has been removed for 4 weeks now. The remaining fish seem fine and back to health but the water is full of tiny tiny particles. Its not cloudy but almost misty with these particles. Im afraid to stop medicating as i have no way of knowing if the white spot is gone...Are these tiny particles white spot or is it just a change in the water because of all the medication and lack of carbon filter. The PH is between 6.8 & 7.
How Do I Know If White Spot Is Eradicated.
- Thread starter Barry P
- Start date
Matthew5664
Fish Herder
I've resently had a spot of whitespot myself. What a pain!! I medicated on days 1,2 and 3 then 5 and 7 this way you kill the young parasite so they can not reproduc, This way you stope the life cycle. What medication did you use? after this i put some poylester in my filter to get rid of the 'mist' hope this is helpful? If not someone well help soon. Try posting in fish emergancy
Treatment
It is only the free-swimming stage of the parasite that is susceptible to treatment; neither the trophonts under the epithelium or the tomont cysts can be killed. So any treatment plan has to be carried out over a period of time in order to kill the emerging parasites. This in turn depends on temperature. At 7oC the life cycle will take six weeks, whereas at 25oC it will be complete in a week.
An alternative treatment is prolonged salt immersion at 1-2 ppt (parts per thousand), i.e. 1-2 grams per litre
Water should be monitored during the treatment course in case there is any loss of filter activity.
It is also believed that fish that survive an attack of Ich have an increased immunity against future attacks
Lurking in the background!
Ich is most often brought into the tank or pond on new fish or plants (not if they are quarantined!). However, it is also believed that some survivors of an Ich infection can become latent carriers, with the parasites forming a latent stage at protected sites such as the base of fins or the gills.
Subsequent stress or poor conditions can awaken white spot to re-infect either its host or other fish. This certainly seems to be the case with koi, when often small numbers of trophonts are often found alongside severe fluke, Trichodina or Costia infestations, even in ponds which have not had any new introductions.
Found this info on the interweb for you
Treatment
It is only the free-swimming stage of the parasite that is susceptible to treatment; neither the trophonts under the epithelium or the tomont cysts can be killed. So any treatment plan has to be carried out over a period of time in order to kill the emerging parasites. This in turn depends on temperature. At 7oC the life cycle will take six weeks, whereas at 25oC it will be complete in a week.
An alternative treatment is prolonged salt immersion at 1-2 ppt (parts per thousand), i.e. 1-2 grams per litre
Water should be monitored during the treatment course in case there is any loss of filter activity.
It is also believed that fish that survive an attack of Ich have an increased immunity against future attacks
Lurking in the background!
Ich is most often brought into the tank or pond on new fish or plants (not if they are quarantined!). However, it is also believed that some survivors of an Ich infection can become latent carriers, with the parasites forming a latent stage at protected sites such as the base of fins or the gills.
Subsequent stress or poor conditions can awaken white spot to re-infect either its host or other fish. This certainly seems to be the case with koi, when often small numbers of trophonts are often found alongside severe fluke, Trichodina or Costia infestations, even in ponds which have not had any new introductions.
Found this info on the interweb for you
Paul_MTS
MAD
you can put poly wool in your filter to "polish" your water. you can buy it at any fish shop for a few quid and just put a wad of it inside your filter, this will collect all the fine particles.
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