Hot Weather And Ammonia Spike.

The answer is yes they can. When fish are stressed or more active, ammonia output increases. Of course if you continue to withhold food, this will change as they start to starve to death.
 
You folks are talking about temps in the mid 20s C. I keep a number of my tanks at 29-30C year round. I have kept discus in such temps as well. If heat made ammonia how was this possible? Moreover, I raise fry in these temps in the tanks with the parents. Fry that would not last through ammonia.
 
I did a bit more checking. I was reading on the Hach site. On some, but by no means all, of their ammonia tests they indicate
Recommended sample and reagent temperature is 20–23 °C (68–73.4 °F). Incorrect results may be obtained if test is not performed at the recommended temperature.
http://www.hach.com/asset-get.download.jsa?id=7639983801
 
Other kits from them for ammonia make no mention of this.
 
update.
tanks hit 27 today so this evening I did 75% water change, vac and stripped down my 4 filters for a clean.
filter were not to messy.

filled up tanks and will wait til morning to test again.
 
Tested this morning.....
 
Ammonia NH3/NH4 = 0.5ppm
Nitrite NO2 = 0ppm
Nitrate NO3 = 40ppm ish
PH 7
 
I know that most of the NH3/NH4 reading is NH4 (Non toxic) at PH 7, but im still concerned that I have any reading after years of 0ppm.
 
50% water change tonight !  YEY !
 
What do you think is causing you to have an ammonia reading? Do you think it is real?
 
Before you answer consider this. Pretty much what is bad for AOB is bad for NOB. So if you want to suggest that the presence of ammonia is due to a loss in nitrifying capacity of the AOB, capacity loss should apply to the NOB. In fact, nirtospira are a bit more heat sensitive than nitrosomonas if I remember right. Now I assume you are using an API kit so this tells me an addition of .5 ppm ammonia above the capacity for the AOB to handle it should have two results.
 
1. The AOB should multiply to the extent it takes to handle this ammonia. Moreover, I know the bacteria also are able to change how much they process before they need to divide. So a small increase in ammonia can be handled by their increasing the rate at which they process. If the ammonia increases by more than they can handle, the reproduce and handle it that way. This implies there is an every increasing amount of ammonia originating to keep creating your readings? It appears as if the ammonia is increasing faster than the bacteria can keep up.
 
2. I there is more ammonia and the AOB are converting it, even on a lagging basis, .5 ppm of excess ammonia should produce in the range of 1.3 ppm of nitrite above and beyond what had been created. So again, where is this nitrite? Moreover, the increase is .25 to .5 ppm.
 
3. Moreover, the increase is .25 to .5 ppm. Assuming you cycled your tank to be able to handle 3 ppm of ammonia, that is an increase in ammonia of between 8 and 16%. Since the bacteria can double in 8 to 12 hours under good conditions. How long should it take for them to reproduce to increase their numbers by 8 -16%? So I would then argue that to get a reading of .25 to .5 ppm from an increase in ammonia that the actual increase has to be even higher since the bacteria would shift capacity upwards and or reproduce to some extent in reaction to an increase in ammonia levels.
 
4. I also know that there are a number of things which can cause ammonia tests, be it a $4,000 Hach kit or a $5 API kit, to give inaccurate readings. Any amount of iron is one. Can you say that the heat has not caused a rise in the iron in your tap water? Turbity, aka cloudiness, will cause results to be off. High levels of nitrate will cause results to be off. There are actually lab protocols for how to compensate for such things in order to obtain accurate readings.
 
And if heat caused ammonia in tanks, almost any tank should always have ammonia. Just take a temperature reading in the middle of the night vs in the middle of the day and you can see that. Here is another simple test you can try. Do two tap water tests. Do the first with water from the cold side of your tap. Let it run a bit to be clearly cold. Then repeat the test with hot water from your tap. Let it run so its coming out a bit warmer than your tank water. See what the readings are.
 
While it is certainly possible that the ammonia readings being reported here are real, in light of the above and in the absence of other explanations which would justify the presence of elevated ammonia, my gut reaction is that its the test results that may be wrong rather than the ammonia being real.
 
One last observation, if heat is responsible for ammonia increasing, should there not be multiple reports of this happening from our members who live in the same regions/areas when there is a heatwave? Should we not be able to read about this phenomenon on other sites as well?
 
good read. thanks for taking the time to post.
the strange thing is that I recently added another filter to help just incase I was under filtered.
split media from another filter.
still getting 0.5ppm tonight though.
the only thing that has changed is I've bought a new API test kit as other ran out.
was thinking I had a bad batch, but tested tap water and it shows 0.
nitrite still 0, and nitrate is about 20ppm above tap water.
running out of ideas now, but saying that, my corys all seem fine. no signs of ammonia poisoning.
 
Before you answer consider this. Pretty much what is bad for AOB is bad for NOB. So if you want to suggest that the presence of ammonia is due to a loss in nitrifying capacity of the AOB, capacity loss should apply to the NOB
 
If I have to presume, based on my limited knowledge, just because AOB and NOB are part of the nitrogen cycle in a fish tank doesn't mean they react to the same conditions with the same symptoms. So it's possible that AOB bacteria are sensitive to temperature changes and NOB aren't. But that's for the scientists to say.
 
However, no one said it's the temperature that caused the spike. In my case it was just a strange coincidence, that's all. I know nothing more.
 
There is one more possibility you haven't considered. You are doing more water changes than usual, one on top of the other. You are making test comparisons between untreated tap water and tank water. But what if your dechlorinator is releasing ammonia from chloramine and doesn't work very hard to dispose of the ammonia (differing brands have more, some less on seconary action of binding the ammonia from chloramine).
 
my tap conditioner does not neutralise ammonia.
tested again tonight and getting 0.1ppm ammonia so looks like its levelling out again.
must have been one of those strange coincidences.
ill keep checking and see what happens over the next few days.
 
In my case, the tap water contains 0.02ppm ammonia and is treated with chlorines only but I do use Prime. However the tests weren't done straight after a water change the first time and same as Shaddex, it was like a mini spike and went away itself without affecting anyone. I would have thought nothing of it, except that it affected 4 out of 5 tanks at exactly the same period of time.
 

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