Honeycomb Catfish (Tatia Perugiae) Tank Mates?

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mislisa

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Am looking for advice on stocking my 20g which I hope to have as a biotope around these little guys. I can't find any info on tank mates anywhere.

I haven't set up the tank yet, as I'm still in the process of moving out my multifasciatus cichlids.

Any tips appreciated!
 
Centromochlus perugiae, aka the Oil or Honeycomb Tatia Catfish
 
Hopefully this will help and you give some more things to research. From my two favorite sites to explore in my free time:
 
 
 
Safe with all but the smallest of fry, therefore suitable for most community aquaria. Ideally keep it in a South American biotope aquarium, with tetras, dwarf cichlids and other peaceful catfish such as Corydoras sp. and smaller Loricariids. It’s totally unaggressive towards conspecifics, and is equally happy when kept singly, or as part of a group.
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/centromochlus-perugiae/
 
 
 
Inhabits large rivers where the water is swift, preferring littoral zones adjacent to the shoreline over hard, sandy bottoms devoid of vegetation. Feeds on insects, mostly ants, beetles, and mayflies.
http://www.fishbase.org/summary/47713
 
I have had this species for seven years now, so hopefully I can offer some advice.  The citations in the previous post are generally accurate, though with some cautious reservations concerning tankmates.
 
First, let me say that you will absolutely never see this fish, ever.  If you "train" it with frozen bloodworms, you will see them at feeding time but never aside from this.  "Nocturnal" might have been invented for this species.  They will only venture out in complete darkness (meaning the room as well as tank), aside from the feeding.  I trained mine with frozen bloodworms to come out in the evening on water change day, and they sit waiting for this, but they will not venture out until the food appears.  This is not a good basic food, and as this fish feeds from the surface, adding some floating pellet-type food well after lights are out is the best way, with a bloodworm treat once or perhaps twice weekly.
 
Second point, they must have wood in which to live.  Their common name, wood cat, is certainly well justified.  They reside in tunnels in bogwood; the Malaysian Driftwood available in many fish stores and online is ideal,  Get some pieces that will stand upright, representing tree trunks, and that have tunnels.  The fish will select their own "home."  However, this wood must be standing close to the filter return so there is a relatively good current hitting the wood.  When I first acquired my three, they took up residence in two standing pieces of wood, at the end next the filter return.  A few months later, I moved them into a larger tank I set up, and I moved them in the wood which was easier than trying to dislodge them which could cause damage.  I decided where the wood should stand in my larger tank, and carried it in a pail of tank water to the new tank and placed it.  One piece (which happened to have one fish in it) I placed at the end next to the filter return, and the other (holding two fish) went at the opposite end of the tank.  Next morning, I discovered the two in the one piece had moved to the piece under the filter return, and all three were now residing there.  They need water current.
 
Now to the caution on tankmates.  These fish will nip fins.  I had a group of Rosy Tetra, and noticed one day that two of them were missing the lower lobe of their caudal (tail) fin; with weeks of observation I saw no nipping from the other fish (this is a large 115g tank, 5-feet in length, so plenty of space).  I considered a bacterial/fungus issue, and consulted a microbiologist.  She saw the photos, and as soon as I mentioned the woodcats, suggested they were likely the culprits.  This was four years ago, and having no other tanks I left them and kept an eye on things.  One other tetra lost a bit of its tail since, but no others.  You are intending these fish in a 20g, so I would suggest no other fish as there isn't much room.  The woodcats are quite rapid swimmers when they come out in the dark; a couple nights early on I observed them with a flashlight around 2 and 3 in the morning.  I also think the feeding issue is part of this; placing food in the tank after darkness is fine, but other fish are nocturnal or semi-nocturnal too, and the fin nipping might have been due to lack of sufficient food.  I'm now feeding more often, about five hours after the room is in darkness.
 
Feel free to ask questions.
 
I'm not concerned about the flow rate, as the canister filter I have is quite strong - I have to lower the flow rate for the multis in the tank right now.

I'm considering doing a fairly heavily planted (low tech) woody setup. I like the idea of having an unusual fish, so I hope I can sell these multis fairly quickly.

Do you recommend sand or gravel for these guys? Any particular plants you'd suggest?

Thanks!!
 
Actually, scrap the planted idea... These fish typically inhabit black water regions, yes? I'm going to look into a backwater biotope. :)
 
Plants are irrelevant to them.  Just lots of wood as I described previously, and they will be fine.  Plants obviously help with water quality, so you can still have some, perhaps just floating, with light during the day for the plants.  Substrate of sand is good; I've never seen mine on the substrate, but then as I said they only come out at night, but I would avoid gravel.  You might want to add some "day" fish, and something like cories would work here, and they are better with sand.
 
Something else just occurred to me, and that is water parameters.  Your shellies are hard water fish.  C. perugiae are found in areas of Columbia, Peru and Ecuador, inhabiting faster flowing streams, along the shoreline wedged in rock or wood crevices facing the current.  Given the range of water parameters between the various habitats where this fish occurs, it seems to be adaptable though extremes should be avoided. Most authorities recommend soft slightly acidic water; depending upon its origin, soft to moderately hard (hardness up to 25 dGH), acidic to basic (pH 6 to 8) water, temperature 25-28C/77-82F seems acceptable ranges.
 
Byron.
 
I'm not too concerned about the water parameters - my shellies are currently at my office where the water is quite hard, but the tank will be moving to my house where the water is on the soft side. I don't remember the exact numbers, but it was in the acceptable range. :)
 
Yet another question... Are there any smaller pleco (or pleco type) fish that would be ok in a 20g with these guys? Ilove plecos but have only kept BNs.
 
mislisa said:
Yet another question... Are there any smaller pleco (or pleco type) fish that would be ok in a 20g with these guys? Ilove plecos but have only kept BNs.
 
The Bristlenose is about the smallest "pleco" and I would want a larger tank.  As for other loricariids, the common Whiptail (Rineloricaria parva) would be OK, or the "red" variety usually called Red Lizard Whiptail.  Cories I think I mentioned, but not the "dwarf" species as the wood cats will eat anything they think will fit in their mouths, and when you see them gobbling up worms you realize they have a fairly large mouth.  They are like a vacuum cleaner when they come across food.
 

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