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Rocky998

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Yes, I plan on putting in 2 more sacks of the CaribSea plant substrate this weekend. Thank you! It's going to be a process, but will post some pics when it's done. I'm not familiar with grudgeons, will check them out.
Sounds good!

No problem. Can't wait to see it. If you ever want to learn about them you can ask me or @Essjay IF she wants to... I know she has owned them in the past.
The fish in my profile picture is one and I also have a whole thread with pictures of them. (The first few pages don't have good pics and they are a bit blurry but the rest are pretty good and clear)
 

Rocky998

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They are softwater fish, I don't know what your water conditions are. Sorry if you have already said... I'm bouncing across multiple threads trying to keep up ­čśů
 
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FairyFinÔść

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Yes, I plan on putting in 2 more sacks of the CaribSea plant substrate this weekend. Thank you! It's going to be a process, but will post some pics when it's done. I'm not familiar with grudgeons, will check them out.

I would add water sprite to the plant list.

Although the footprint is small, it is not as small as others are making it out to be. Let's look at the dimensions of your tank compared to other popular sizes.
Your tank is 20"├Ś18" or 360 inch square footprint.
10gallon is 20"├Ś10" or 200"sq.
20gallon is 24"├Ś 12" or 288"sq.
29gallon is 30"├Ś12" or 360"sq.
Your 40gallon tall is the same footprint and surface area as a 29gallon.
The harder part of a taller tank is oxygenation and maintenance. Oxygenation is more difficult because there is more volume to surface area, but you've got that taken care of by adding air stones.
None of the fish you get would be bothered by the depth of the water. I think your tank would make an interesting display with good schools of bottom, middle and top fish. I just wouldn't want to deal with the maintenance involved with a tank that deep, or setting up the lighting to reach any lower plants. If only using lights at the top you will need a stronger light to reach the bottom.
 
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I would add water sprite to the plant list.

Although the footprint is small, it is not as small as others are making it out to be. Let's look at the dimensions of your tank compared to other popular sizes.
Your tank is 20"├Ś18" or 360 inch square footprint.
10gallon is 20"├Ś10" or 200"sq.
20gallon is 24"├Ś 12" or 288"sq.
29gallon is 30"├Ś12" or 360"sq.
Your 40gallon tall is the same footprint and surface area as a 29gallon.
The harder part of a taller tank is oxygenation and maintenance. Oxygenation is more difficult because there is more volume to surface area, but you've got that taken care of by adding air stones.
None of the fish you get would be bothered by the depth of the water. I think your tank would make an interesting display with good schools of bottom, middle and top fish. I just wouldn't want to deal with the maintenance involved with a tank that deep, or setting up the lighting to reach any lower plants. If only using lights at the top you will need a stronger light to reach the bottom.
Having the airstone right behind the little Sicce Nano breaks up the bubbles like limestone in saltwater! I don't remember how strong my lights are, but their pretty freakin' blinding. They're "Vivigrow". The shape lends itself more to a reef tank, but that's a future goal. I'm going to find a nice piece of driftwood, some river rock, & a few tall plants with 2 open areas on either side of the log with short greenery. It'll be more a plant tank with some fish, shrimp & snails. Not going for a specific biotrope, just whatever work in this type of setup, even if it's just a school of cardinals & those peacock gudgens ­čŽÜ­čÉč But your comparison of the area to volume was most helpful, thank you!
 
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Having the airstone right behind the little Sicce Nano breaks up the bubbles like limestone in saltwater! I don't remember how strong my lights are, but their pretty freakin' blinding. They're "Vivigrow". The shape lends itself more to a reef tank, but that's a future goal. I'm going to find a nice piece of driftwood, some river rock, & a few tall plants with 2 open areas on either side of the log with short greenery. It'll be more a plant tank with some fish, shrimp & snails. Not going for a specific biotrope, just whatever work in this type of setup, even if it's just a school of cardinals & those peacock gudgens ­čŽÜ­čÉč But your comparison of the area to volume was most helpful, thank you!
 

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Rocky998

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Be sure if you do the peacocks that there are small crevices for them to hide in. They like tiny caves
 
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Be sure if you do the peacocks that there are small crevices for them to hide in. They like tiny caves
Of course! This is totally barren & will finish rhe hardscape after the 2nd bag of plant substrate added. I want a good layer for deep roots. The fish are going to be added in August.
 

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Of course! This is totally barren & will finish rhe hardscape after the 2nd bag of plant substrate added. I want a good layer for deep roots. The fish are going to be added in August.
Sounds good! Your doing a plant cycle I take it then? That's the the most reliable quick way to cycle.
I have a feeling the tank is going to look really good when finished!
 

Rocky998

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If you do go for peacock gudgeons, bear this in mind


When Rocky got his, I told him they liked to spawn in tiny places. He didn't believe me until he saw just how tiny the space was that his gudgeons chose to spawn in :lol:
­čĄú
Yah... But they also like to hide in caves.
If you have males and females they will most likely spawn. But the other fish will probably eat all fry lol. If you don't want fry at all, try to just get females. They still have beautiful coloration
20220621_181022.jpg
 
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The water height isn't the problem, all fish can live in 3 feet of water. The issue is the surface area (length x width). That is only 18 x 20 inches and that seriously limits what can go in there.

--------------------
What is the GH (general hardness), KH (carbonate hardness) and pH of your water supply?
This information can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).

Depending on what the GH of your water is, will determine what fish you should keep.

Angelfish, most tetras, barbs, Bettas, gouramis, rasbora, Corydoras and small species of suckermouth catfish all occur in soft water (GH below 150ppm) and a pH below 7.0.

Livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), rainbowfish and goldfish occur in medium hard water with a GH around 200-250ppm and a pH above 7.0.

If you have very hard water (GH above 300ppm) then look at African Rift Lake cichlids, or use distilled or reverse osmosis water to reduce the GH and keep fishes from softer water.

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If you have enough light, then Ambulia, Hygrophila polysperma and Vallis
My municipal water:
GH= 290
Bicarb= 212
Sulfate= 30.7
pH= 7.72
Nitrates can spike up to 8.9 & we've received notices every so often, warning pregnants & babies not to drink it. It tastes awful, even filtered thru the refrigerator. We'll cook with it but not drink it. I'm so tired of cleaning off the mineral scale & the poor quality that I used 3/4 bottle water that's multi-step RO, 1 micron filtered, de-ionized. I admit I need to buy a test kit, even so, I plan on using the refill station for my water changes.
 

Rocky998

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If your going to buy something unusual like peacock gudgeons, breed them.
Well... If she wants other fish then she can't. Their too small and will get eaten. The fry that is. But that's fine, as long as the adults are living happy and healthy lives
 

Rocky998

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My municipal water:
GH= 290
Bicarb= 212
Sulfate= 30.7
pH= 7.72
Nitrates can spike up to 8.9 & we've received notices every so often, warning pregnants & babies not to drink it. It tastes awful, even filtered thru the refrigerator. We'll cook with it but not drink it. I'm so tired of cleaning off the mineral scale & the poor quality that I used 3/4 bottle water that's multi-step RO, 1 micron filtered, de-ionized. I admit I need to buy a test kit, even so, I plan on using the refill station for my water changes.
That is a bit on the harder side of water...
 

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