Gourami Disease

[nursesb]

Hi,
Please can someone help. Me and my boyfriend set up a tropical tank 2-3 weeks ago and had the water tested at the store (PH etc) before buying fish. Everything was within normal ranges. Within a couple of days one out of the 2 gourami's we bought started developing a dark grey film extending from his head all across the body and then with a week and ahalf he stopped eating then eventually died. Previous to developing the film on his body he was darting all around the fish tank. Now a few days later the other smaller female gourami who always hides and appears very shy has begun developing this grey film on her head. Not sure what the cause is? Could it be an external protozoan disease? How should we treat it?
Also in the tank we have: one bamboo shrimp, some neons, 2 fiddler crabs and 2 other fish we think are mollies. The only other thing to mention is we have a log in the aquarium which has stained the water brownish. (It was sterilised before putting it in the water!)
Hope to hear from someone soon
Thanx

 

[rocknurworld2006]

need to know your water parameters as of now?
size of tank?
did you cycle tank?
how long was tank set up before adding fish??

 

[nursesb]

Bear with me as we are really new to this...but tank size is 60x30x40 cm. We don't have stuff to test the water with atm as we were told to test the water every month so will prob get ph testing this weekend. Tank was set up for about 10days prior to introducing fish and water tested from the place where we bought the fish to make sure it was ok. Also I don't understand what you mean by cyling the tank? sarah

 

[rocknurworld2006]

ok dont worry this has happened to us all when we have first strarted
FIRST dont listen to anybody in fish shops as they tell you alot of rubbish!!!

you will need to get a test kit ASAP, and it should be checked every week for ph, ammonia, nitrite and nitrates.
best test kit is API master test kit about £15-£20 but will last you ages.

if you have nitrite and ammonia it is lethal to your fish and will kill them.

cycling is when your filter obtains enough bacteria to maintain your aquarium which takes a period of 36 days and no fish should really be added until this is complete.
you can do a cycle with fish but it should be with hardy species ie platies, guppies, but water must be checked everyday for ammonia and nitrite.

you shouldnt really have fiddler crabs as they actually require brackish water (mix between fresh and saltwater) and they will eat other small fish. When you purchase one of these crabs from a pet store they will have them all in a fresh water tank with limited ways for the crab to climb out of the water and dry off their shell. Problem is that pet store in general have no idea that these delicate crabs need ot do just that. They need to be able to get out of the water and dry themselves off. If they are not allowed to leave the water then you can expect your crab to live about 3 weeks. Their shell will get really weak and they will die.

My suggestion is to make sure the tank or aquarium you are placing the crabs in has alot of vegitation that goes all the way to the top of the water so they can climb up to dry off. Also, I would urge you to place a rock in the tank that protrudes above the water line. Again the crabs can climb up and dry themselves off.

 

[Spooky76]

Why do fish shops tell you a loads of cack ?!!!

Basically your water stats which are Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate and possibly PH. When they tested them they would be fine, because without fish in the tank, you wouldnt have any of them really !!!

When you add fish to a tank of water (Dechlorinated - NEVER EVER EVER LET TAP WATER NEAR YOUR TANK OR FILTERS OR FISH WITHOUT REMOVING THE CHLORINE) your fish produce Ammonia. Ammonia builds up in the tank, eventually your filter will start to convert the ammonia to nitrite. Both of these are LETHAL to your fish. Then your filter will start converting the nitrite to Nitrate (Far less harmful) BUT...your filter take a while to get going, so right now, your fish are probably dying in ammonia.

You need to do daily 30% water changes. Buy some de-chlorinator from your fish shop, take 30% of the water out the tank, get 30% ready to put in from the tap (Use kettle water to get the temp about right) add your dechlorinator to the water, then put the water back in. Dont mess with your filter at all right now. Also dont feed the fish more than once a day, and dont feed more than they will eat within 2 mins, as old food breaks down and causes more ammonia.

Sorry you have been given a complete loads of rubbish for advice.

Follow these steps and please post back with any questions.

Also as advised, buy a test kit, its the most essential thing you will need.

Once you know what your water is like, we can advise on a treatment for the gourami. Unfortunately without that you might be wasting your time, as Ammonia will kill far quicker than any desease out there. Get those stats posted back asap, once you control your water we can sort out the deseases.

 

[nursesb]

Hi,

Me and my boyfriend have definately realised that the fish shop workers are clueless which is so frustrating. We read about the crabs needing brackish water a bit too late but they climb up the plants and filters and sit on the top luckily. Thankyou for your advice, i will get a testing kit as soon as i can. I will let you know the water stats when i have them

sarah

 

[nursesb]

Iv got a test kit: GH is 0, KH is 0, Ph 7.0, Nitrite is 0-0.5, Nitrate is 0-20? It didnt have ammonia level check on it though? What do you suggest? Any thoughts about the gourami? Why do I need to do a 30% water change? is that because of the stained water?

 

[rocknurworld2006]

you must get ammonia test kit as this is the most important one as this is most lethal to fish!!

 

[st24rsap]

Iv got a test kit: GH is 0, KH is 0, Ph 7.0, Nitrite is 0-0.5, Nitrate is 0-20? It didnt have ammonia level check on it though? What do you suggest? Any thoughts about the gourami? Why do I need to do a 30% water change? is that because of the stained water?

you need to get a test kit that tests for ammonia as the ammonia will build up first, it will then be transformed into nitrite by the bacteria in the filter and then eventually into nitrate which is safe for the fish.

untill the tank is fully cycled you will have high ish readings of both ammonia and nitrite that will need to be reduced by water changes (im doing a fish in cycle and have had to do 50% water changes at least once a day for the last 3 weeks)

a nitrite level of .5 is poisoness to the fish and will either kill them or make them suseptable to illness's, as soon as the nitrite or ammonia levels go above 0.25 you need to change the water

its a long and painfull process but has to be done. I am yet to loose any fish during my cycle and im 3 weeks into it