Golden Wonder Panchax Tips To Breed!

08-johns-c

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I've got two Golden Panchax[Male and Female] and my female has been full of eggs for a while and my male has been flaring up and trying to breed with her. They lay up to 2oo eggs on fine leafed plants. The fine leafed plants I've got are; Java Fern, a type of rope plant that will grow none stop and some other plant that we don't know about its name. So far I've put both male and female into a netted breeder box and preperd the box with plants that they favour. this is not the first time that they have layed eggs. The first and only other time they have bred, the young were frightened to death by my brothers and sisters. If you have any tips on how to breed them please, reply to this letter and tell me how to breed them because I am not goning to let the eggs or the young ones die this time.
 
this is really easy. FILL tank with plants - you don't - remove adults after a few days - feed the empty tank after 2-3 weeks or when you see fry. Microworm and artemia are good fry foods, but dry foods will do at a push. They fry will eat each other - but if the tank is very well planted a significant number will survive

If the tank is full of plants (mostly free floating) you'll get quite a number of fry in there. I use this technique to raise lots of species without ever picking eggs.

The fry yield is less than if you collect eggs - but breeding fish (unless you are a commercial enterprise) is about quality fry, not quantity of fry

check this page
aplocheilus linaetus - golden wonder panchax
 
Breeding Golden Wonders Aplochelius lineatus Gold. (My Way)
So you are attempting to breed Aplochelius lineatus Gold. I would give the pair a tank of their own 18x10x10. The tank being bare except for a small air driven sponge filter, heater set to 75'F and a couple of acrylic yarn spawning mops. http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breedi...awning_Mop.html
only 3/4 fill the tank and provide a tight fitting lid as these killifish will jump. The water is soft and slightly acidic with a pH of 6.8. The male will drive the female into the mops and adopt a stance alongside the female, the pair will then form an "S" shaped pose as the male squeezes the female into the fibres of the mop. This is followed by a slight jerk and a single egg is deposited and fertilised, then the pair release only to start the process over and over again.
The eggs are quite large and can withstand a fair degree of handling. Pick the eggs from the mops daily ( gently, with your fingers). and place them in a margarine tub, floated in the parent tank. Remove fungussed/unfertilised eggs daily. the fry will hatch in or around 10-14 days. They are quite large and can take newly hatched brineshrimp and microworm from the outset. Keep the adults well fed (livefoods, frozen and flake) and keep their tank clean, removing any uneaten food on a daily basis. Water changes are also an essential part of killifish husbandry and I like to change about 1/3 of the water weekly.
These fish are quite a large species easily attaining 3-4 inches in the home aquaria, they are predatory by nature, so please do not combine them with small tetras or danios etc.
I cull the runts and slower growing fishes for the simple reason of maintaing good solid stock, the smaller ones will only be bullied and subsequently killed by the larger ones. When the fry are starting to sex out you will notice a fair amount of squabbling, especially amongst the males. Take out the females and rear these seperately.
This is a nice species to breed for the novice killifish enthuasist, they present little or no problems in maintaining, breeding and the rearing of fry and present a stepping stone to go on and attempt some of the more exotic species.
I hope this was of some help to you in some form or other.
Regards
BigC
 

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