Fish Tank Epidemic

joeyh51

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Ok.... so I got 4 new clown loaches from a LFS about a week and a half ago, noticed they had white spot about a day after putting them in so started treating it with King British WS3 and slowly upping the temp to 26 degrees.
Since then things have gone from bad to worse, I've lost all my clown loaches and also my favourite golden nugget plec to this, my 2 blue acaras have got white spot pretty bad now, as does my other blue phantom plec. The 4 rainbow cichlids I have in there are generally very subdued and pale, hiding in the plants and generally not moving much, its the same with my juvi blue JD as well.
The only fish in there that seem to have been fine throughout all of this has been my 2 african butterfly cichlids. Although they do all still seem fairly active during feeding!

I do regular water changes and test it to keep all the levels fine, I have just removed the Seachem Purigen I had in one of my filters just incase that was removing the white spot treatment. But apart from that I'm literally despairing about what to do now, I really don't want to loose any more fish but they're all looking pretty bad, apart from the butterfly's.

The tank is a Vision 260, with an Eheim pro3 2075 and Fluval 305 running.

Please help!
 
Do you have carbon filter pads in the filter as this will remove the medication? Just a thought :) You have probs researched this but there's a link to a good article on White spot and treatments etc which I'm sure you aware of etc just being proactive, I'm new to the hobby :)
White spot

Someone will b along soon with info hate hearing sad news :-(
 
Nope no carbon, but thanks for the input!

Yeah read through loads of stuff about white spot already, I'm wondering if its something to do with the treatment not being great?! Heard that Waterlife Protazin was pretty good stuff?
 
Sometimes the best treatment is isolation for sick or disease fish's. Being removed from the main tank you can do 90 percent water changes in less the 10 minutes as long as your using a 5-10G barebottom hospital tank. Treatment I find works better to, since your meds will be more potent in a smaller water volume and controlling heat and such is a breeze. Also the chances of spreading to other healthy fish's are reduced dramatically! So my suggestion is get all the fish's you have that are showing signs of sickness into a hospital tank ASAP before you lose anymore!
 
Sometimes the best treatment is isolation for sick or disease fish's. Being removed from the main tank you can do 90 percent water changes in less the 10 minutes as long as your using a 5-10G barebottom hospital tank. Treatment I find works better to, since your meds will be more potent in a smaller water volume and controlling heat and such is a breeze. Also the chances of spreading to other healthy fish's are reduced dramatically! So my suggestion is get all the fish's you have that are showing signs of sickness into a hospital tank ASAP before you lose anymore!
Ick / whitespot is a parasite not a disease, you have to treat the whole tank for the treatment to be effective, if you separate the affected fish you will then have 2 tanks with ick
 
Nope no carbon, but thanks for the input!

Yeah read through loads of stuff about white spot already, I'm wondering if its something to do with the treatment not being great?! Heard that Waterlife Protazin was pretty good stuff?
If you are thinking of switching treatments I would see the King British treatment through then leave at least 48 hours before trying another treatment

The King British treatment has had many positive reviews, personally I would see it through and if one course of treatment doesn`t clear the problem try a second course
 
26c is not high enough to accelerate the parasites development cycle (which is why you raise the temp). You need to get it as close to 30c as possible.

the parasite is only vulnerable to the treatment when it is in the water. Whilst it is buried in the flesh of the fish it is protected. With the accelerated cycle, the parasite will multiply and leave the fish sooner (to find a new host) and thus come into contact with the treatment.
 
Sometimes the best treatment is isolation for sick or disease fish's. Being removed from the main tank you can do 90 percent water changes in less the 10 minutes as long as your using a 5-10G barebottom hospital tank. Treatment I find works better to, since your meds will be more potent in a smaller water volume and controlling heat and such is a breeze. Also the chances of spreading to other healthy fish's are reduced dramatically! So my suggestion is get all the fish's you have that are showing signs of sickness into a hospital tank ASAP before you lose anymore!
Ick / whitespot is a parasite not a disease, you have to treat the whole tank for the treatment to be effective, if you separate the affected fish you will then have 2 tanks with ick
. It may be wise to set up a separate quarantine tank if only one fish has it, but treat both tanks. You may ask why but if you change the water daily in the second aquarium you can help to stop the ich from being as bad. This may also be achieved by doing daily water changes in the main aquarium but this is stressful on fish without ich, so isolate the fish that has it.
 

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