This is more directed towards people who have used this light before. I recently got this light. Before this, I had a grow light that was not for an aquarium for a few weeks. I think this has stunted growth and caused some brush algae. Will the new light be too bright? What agustments should I make if this is the case? Should I trim the plants that has been affected by the grow light?
Finnex 24/7 planted plus agustments
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AbbeysDad
Fish Gatherer
I have the Finnex Planted + 24/7 on my 60g tank. It works well in 24/7 mode for most low tech plants. However, with my 24" depth, and for some plants, I find I need a bit more midday light, so I take it out of 24/7 mode in favor of either max or high white light w/red (custom) from 10am till 3pm, then back into 24/7 mode. If your tank has a shorter height then 24", 24/7 mode may be just fine. Also, I feel that fish need a period of darkness, so I have the 24/7 on a timer, on at 6am, off at 2am (in 24/7 mode, it starts up in 6am feature time.)
Yes, Byron told me that you had this light. The height of my tank is just about 18 inches. So the light is fine the way it is?
I also feel like the fish need darkness, the 10 o'clock in 24/7 seems like it should be 9 o'clock. I set the light to the most dim setting of blue at night.
I also feel like the fish need darkness, the 10 o'clock in 24/7 seems like it should be 9 o'clock. I set the light to the most dim setting of blue at night.
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You need to watch the blue night light. Minimally, as a dawn and dusk period, OK. But no longer. Total darkness for a period of several hours is essential for fish health, and plants too for that matter.
This thinking that tropical fish have moonlight is in error. If sunlight is not going to pierce the forest canopy during mid-day, you can be sure moon light will not at night. In all tropical regions, there is a daily period of 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. Obviously there is dawn and dusk between these, but it is short, and darkness of several hours is complete blackness in the water.
This thinking that tropical fish have moonlight is in error. If sunlight is not going to pierce the forest canopy during mid-day, you can be sure moon light will not at night. In all tropical regions, there is a daily period of 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. Obviously there is dawn and dusk between these, but it is short, and darkness of several hours is complete blackness in the water.
AbbeysDad
Fish Gatherer
You are best served to use a timer for the light to provide total darkness from say midnight to 6am. I believe that the newer Finnex SE model does this automatically (although I'm not sure of the exact times) as well as provide more red with bright white for midday 'sun'. (I believe they have found that the red along with the bright white promotes [even] better plant growth). This is why I created a custom setting of high white with red for midday 'sun' with my deeper tank (10am - 3pm).
If I didn't mention it, I quite like this light! The dawn to dusk transition makes for a much more 'real' environment for the fish AND for the observers. However, If I could I would like to better automatic control the duration/intensity of midday light (instead of taking it in and out of 24/7 mode).
If I didn't mention it, I quite like this light! The dawn to dusk transition makes for a much more 'real' environment for the fish AND for the observers. However, If I could I would like to better automatic control the duration/intensity of midday light (instead of taking it in and out of 24/7 mode).
AbbeysDad
Fish Gatherer
I think you are fine with your 18" depth - I felt I needed more light intensity/duration with my 24" depth for some plants such as the dwarf sag.
Run in 24/7 and watch the plants. Growth rates are a combination of light, CO2, and nutrients. If your intent is a low tech tank, you could be fine running in 24/7 mode. Some abandon 24/7 mode in favor of 6-8 hours of bright light. For me, I found that a combination works best....but nearly every situation can be different so you'll just have to see what works best for you.
Run in 24/7 and watch the plants. Growth rates are a combination of light, CO2, and nutrients. If your intent is a low tech tank, you could be fine running in 24/7 mode. Some abandon 24/7 mode in favor of 6-8 hours of bright light. For me, I found that a combination works best....but nearly every situation can be different so you'll just have to see what works best for you.
I have a few more questions.
First, about a week ago I bought flourish excel due to the lack of co2. Byron told me that it has a detergent in it that is harmful to fish and not to use it. He posted pictures of his tank without co2 and the plants were beautiful. I am no longer using flourish excel. Now to my question. Can some plants grow without a co2 system? I think the answer to this question is yes because some plants I am unable to buy because they are co2 plants.
Second, can you please define low tech plants. Are these plants that don't need much light or co2? Most of the plants I got in my tank were bought before I was into the fish hobby. These plants may not be low tech. Some of the plants in my tank are Vallisnera, Anubis, dwarf crypt, Java moss, penny wort, dwarf bacopa/ baby tears, microsorium pteropus, giant Sagittaria, water wisteria, and a moss ball.
Third, should I trim the plant stems that have already been affected by brush algae? The algae was grown with the light before the finnex.
First, about a week ago I bought flourish excel due to the lack of co2. Byron told me that it has a detergent in it that is harmful to fish and not to use it. He posted pictures of his tank without co2 and the plants were beautiful. I am no longer using flourish excel. Now to my question. Can some plants grow without a co2 system? I think the answer to this question is yes because some plants I am unable to buy because they are co2 plants.
Second, can you please define low tech plants. Are these plants that don't need much light or co2? Most of the plants I got in my tank were bought before I was into the fish hobby. These plants may not be low tech. Some of the plants in my tank are Vallisnera, Anubis, dwarf crypt, Java moss, penny wort, dwarf bacopa/ baby tears, microsorium pteropus, giant Sagittaria, water wisteria, and a moss ball.
Third, should I trim the plant stems that have already been affected by brush algae? The algae was grown with the light before the finnex.
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AbbeysDad
Fish Gatherer
1) Flourish Excel is not a detergent. It's primary ingredient is gluteraldehyde, a chemical sterlizer used to sterilize heat sensitive medical and dental equipment. It's said to break down in the aquarium to produce a carbon source for plants. It kills algae and some plants are very sensitive to it. I believe that it can be very hard on livestock. I have used it in the past to fight Blackbeard algae, but I don't like it and I don't use it normally!
Any/all plants can/will grow without pressurized CO2, however, growth will typically be slower and overall plants sizes may be reduced some.
2) Low Tech/High Tech are terms used to define planted tanks. A low tech tank is like yours, mine, and Byron's. Low tech has somewhat lower light requirements, does not use pressurized CO2, and requires less fertilizer.
So the high tech tank uses brighter light (or a longer photo period), CO2, and more fertilizer - pushing plants to grow faster. With the possible exception of many carpet plants (that typically grow in shallow water, witch means bright light) many/most plants will grow in a low tech tank. Your baby tears may or may not be a bit of a challenge in low tech.
3) Where possible it's always a good idea to remove algae manually, however trimming may or may not be the answer as some plants react differently to trimming. You may be able to remove affected leaves, leaving the rest of the plant intact. Unfortunately, In some more extreme cases, entire plants must simply be removed to eliminate the algae from the system. In other cases, H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) or Excel may be used as a spot treatment. For example, I have removed java ferns and anubis nana from the tank, sprayed with H2O2, rinsed and returned to the tank to kill BB algae. HOWEVER, not all plants can hold up with this treatment. (I tried this once on an Amazon Sword, and in the next few days, the leaves turned yellow). Although the plant may have recovered (as I did not spray the roots), I removed it for appearance sake.
Any/all plants can/will grow without pressurized CO2, however, growth will typically be slower and overall plants sizes may be reduced some.
2) Low Tech/High Tech are terms used to define planted tanks. A low tech tank is like yours, mine, and Byron's. Low tech has somewhat lower light requirements, does not use pressurized CO2, and requires less fertilizer.
So the high tech tank uses brighter light (or a longer photo period), CO2, and more fertilizer - pushing plants to grow faster. With the possible exception of many carpet plants (that typically grow in shallow water, witch means bright light) many/most plants will grow in a low tech tank. Your baby tears may or may not be a bit of a challenge in low tech.
3) Where possible it's always a good idea to remove algae manually, however trimming may or may not be the answer as some plants react differently to trimming. You may be able to remove affected leaves, leaving the rest of the plant intact. Unfortunately, In some more extreme cases, entire plants must simply be removed to eliminate the algae from the system. In other cases, H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) or Excel may be used as a spot treatment. For example, I have removed java ferns and anubis nana from the tank, sprayed with H2O2, rinsed and returned to the tank to kill BB algae. HOWEVER, not all plants can hold up with this treatment. (I tried this once on an Amazon Sword, and in the next few days, the leaves turned yellow). Although the plant may have recovered (as I did not spray the roots), I removed it for appearance sake.
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The plant that has been most affected by the algae is the water wisteria. Because of the new light, it has started to grow new stems (not from the ones I was planning to cut). This is why I thought it might be a good idea to cut the "stunted" stems.
AbbeysDad
Fish Gatherer
Wisteria (center rear in my avitar) does not do well with trimming. It's best to pull the plants, cut tips 6-8" and replant the tips, discarding the old growth (In my case the old growth goes in the turtle pond in the basement).
AbbeysDad
Fish Gatherer
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