Filter Advice Please...

[Mr Bee]

Hi,

I have a Tetra AquArt 60L tank, with a Tetratec Easycrystal filterhere and this uses cardridges of physical and carbon filter media - click here - to trap debris, while the bio-filter foam bit is seperate and slots in front of this (or behind it in terms of water folw!) down the front of the filter box.

Does the bio filter foam ever need replacing? - obviously not completely, as you'd lose all the bacteria, but do you need to replace half of it, and leave half original in to work and seed new bit?......Or is this just a manufacturer thing to get you to buy more of their products?

Underneath all this, sits Tetra Bioballs - see here - which I assume are more places for beneficial bacteria to live??

Are these the best things, or would replacing these balls with something like those ceramic cylinders or more foam be better?

Also, I'm using Nutrafin cycle weekly to maintain - this is still ok for tropicals isn't it? (as I've recently moved from coldwater to tropical!)

Also, I have used Easybalance weekly too, is this also safe for tropicals?

 

[Scotty001]

Hi,

I have a Tetra AquArt 60L tank, with a Tetratec Easycrystal filterhere and this uses cardridges of physical and carbon filter media - click here - to trap debris, while the bio-filter foam bit is seperate and slots in front of this (or behind it in terms of water folw!) down the front of the filter box.

Does the bio filter foam ever need replacing? - obviously not completely, as you'd lose all the bacteria, but do you need to replace half of it, and leave half original in to work and seed new bit?......Or is this just a manufacturer thing to get you to buy more of their products?

Underneath all this, sits Tetra Bioballs - see here - which I assume are more places for beneficial bacteria to live??

Are these the best things, or would replacing these balls with something like those ceramic cylinders or more foam be better?

Also, I'm using Nutrafin cycle weekly to maintain - this is still ok for tropicals isn't it? (as I've recently moved from coldwater to tropical!)

Also, I have used Easybalance weekly too, is this also safe for tropicals?

Hi Mr bee,

I stated fish keeping with the exact same tank !!! they're a good sturdy well built tank that comes with everything you need to start. you can also make some simple modifications to the lighting unit to incorporate cold cathode lights as a moonlighting kit to emulate moonlight at night time for the fish, it does make a nice addition to the tank. there is no cutting or defacing the tank or hood needed. it Can be easily removed and you would never know it had been there.

The filter pad itself last a long time and only needs to be changed when it gets so worn and tatty that its falling apart and as you said when you need to use the spare that came with it or another that you bought it is best o put half the old one in with it to transfer the good bacteria and to avoid any nasty spikes. IGNORE the instructions to change it every 6 months as you guessed they want your money, they expect that people new to the hobby will buy this type of tank that comes with everything and still new enough not to have learnt better and take what they say as gospel.

I still use the bio balls they seem to work great i cant comment on weather or not to change with ceramic ones as i have never used those so couldn't truthfully advise but as i said i still have the bio balls and never had a problem, the filter works great with the media it comes with.

tetra easy balance is safe for tropical fish i still use this too, Nutrafin cycle i also believe is fine for tropicals, it encourages good bacteria to grow in the filter media and is fine for both fresh water marine water fish.

If you are interested in building a moonlighting kit into the lighting unit let me know and i will send you a step by step instruction specific to the aqua Art 60Ltr. inc all the materials needed to do it.

Scott

 

[SJ2K]

Dont change the bio-balls for ceramic rings, the rings are a first line of filtration and only remove physical particles, its not bio-media. The rest was pritty much answerd, I wouldnt worry too much about the cycle product, pritty much nonsense (Yeh ive got some too, sounds too good to be true at first and it is).

 

[Mr Bee]

Thanks guys, its just good to be reassured I am doing the right things

I thought the ceramic things were for bacteria housing, and as you seem to get those in more expensive filters, I wondered if they were any better, but following your comments I will definately stick with the Bio balls, and not change the filter media for a long while!

I had really high nitrate yesterday but zero ammonia, so that means the filter is doing its job. Gave it a 20% change today, and added easybalance too, which is supposed to reduce nitrate levels. I'll do another test later I think to confirm its dropped.


SJ2K - Do you mean it's not worth adding cycle?, as I thought it was a good idea to boost it each week, especially following the weekly water change? Do you mean it doesn't actually boost the filter?

 

[backtotropical]

The products which claim to contain the nitrifying bacteria which you need in your filter seems to be a bone of contention.

Basically, the required bacteria require high oxygen levels to survive, which is why they colonise in the filter where there is always running water. They can't take nearly so much oxygen from still water for obvious reasons.

The argument is that a bottle of solution can't provide these conditions, and i agree. Some people say they do work, some say some work and some don't, and some say they're all useless.

I personally wouldn't spend money on them as i think the chances of them working are slim to none.

So, in summary, IMO they probably don't help your filter much, if any at all.

On a side note, i wouldn't buy Easy Balance either. Water changes are the key to a healthy fish tank. The only chemical i use is dechlorinator which is essential.

 

[SJ2K]

+1 to only using dechlor only other exception would be if your Ph was really poor and needed to add somthing for buffer

Keep up the good work.

 

[Mr Bee]

I have been using easybalance since I started with a little 16L tank years ago, as it really seemed to make a difference to the water clarity, and just kind of kept using it as I upgraded the tank. Carried on using it, as it has a nitrate reducing effect....or it's claimed to anyway!

I did a 20% water change, and tested nitrate again in afternoon, and it was still very red (high, ~80ppm).......


So do I just keep doing daily water changes til it comes down? - is this stressful or harmful for the fish or the filter bacteria though??

 

[backtotropical]

You need to put it into perspective. Easy balance may reduce nitrates, but they're not really that detrimental to fish unless in high concentrations, unlike ammonia or nitrite which are lethal in very small concentrations. Also, it can easily be corrected by water changes, so why spend the money unnecessarily?

Keep doing water changes, they will not stress your fish or your filter so long as you dechlorinate the fresh water properly.

High nitrate is almost always a sign of poor tank maintenance and indicates that water changes need to be stepped up.

As a guide, test your tap water for nitrate. Whatever the result is, you should be able to keep your tank water round about the same level. If it starts to creep up, you know to do more water changes. Make sense?

Cheers.

BTT

 

[Mr Bee]

Keep doing water changes, they will not stress your fish or your filter so long as you dechlorinate the fresh water properly.

As a guide, test your tap water for nitrate. Whatever the result is, you should be able to keep your tank water round about the same level. If it starts to creep up, you know to do more water changes. Make sense?

Thnaks BTT, I was just concerned that too many water changes would dilute the bacteria out or something.... but then I thought about it, and the majority will be in the filter anyway, as opposed to free in the water won't they. So don't know where I got that idea from really!

And thats a good idea about nitrate testing the tap water to see waht's it at to start with, never thought of that - kind of like a control experiment!

 

[mark.w.jones]

Testing your tap water is always a good idea just so you know the base line youre working from. Longer term, the best way to reduce nitrate levels is to have 50% of you substrate covered with fast growing plants. Nitrates in my tank are virtually 0ppm because of this although I still do weekly water changes of 20%. Just make sure you ask loads of questions here as there is a wealth of knowledge, far more than you will ever find in your LFS and take the time to read through all the pinned articles.

 

[Mr Bee]

I tested my tap water today, and it looks like its between 10 - 20ppm (hard to tell exact colour). Done another partial change, so gonna test tank water again later. Out of interest, after a water change, do you have to wait before doing a nitrate test, or will the proper level be instantly measurable?

I read something in the test kit instructions about Nitra-Zorb.....whats this and is it any good / worth trying? - at least to get the level down.

 

[backtotropical]

Nitrazorb is a chemical which adsorbs nitrate. It's not necessary. Like most other aquarium chemicals, it is designed to play on the aquarists laziness and earn the manufacturer some extra cash. See my quote below.

Water changes are the key to a healthy fish tank. The only chemical i use is dechlorinator which is essential.

Between 10 - 20 for nitrate is absolutely fine. Try to keep your tank at around that level, and that will indicate that your tank maintenance is up to scratch.

With regards testing after a water change, it depends what circulation you have in the tank. Obviously you want the fresh water to be completely mixed in or you wont get an accurate result. I usually wait arounf haf an hour.

Cheers

BTT