fert ingredients

[kenneth_kpe]

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Sera florena
is the ideal fertilizer for all aquatic plants in freshwater. It contains all the essential minerals, trace elements and iron. However, Sera Florena is free of nitrate and phosphate, which already exists in abundance in an aquarium. Consequently, Sera Florena ensures a healthy abundant growth of plants without smear or beard algae problems.

Directions for use:
Add 5ml for every 20liters (5gal.)

Ingredients:

ferric chloride 0.89000%, ethylene diamine tetraacetate 0.83100%, manganous chloride 0.00400%, magnesium chloride 0.00020%, boric acid 0.00020%, sulphuric acid 0.00016 %, aqua purificata 98.27444%
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well thats info ripped from a site and i would just like to know what are the ingredients listed above ?? what do they provide ?!?!?!!?!? does it have potassium ? i would like to know if im buying the right stuff

and how does it compare to hagen plant grow ?
NPK: 0.3 - 0.08 - 0.8
Total Nitrogen (N) - 0.3% Total Phosphorus (P) - 0.08% Total Potassium (K) - 0.8% Magnesium (Mg) - 0.012% Sulfur (S) - 0.020% Iron (Fe) - 0.0085%

 

[The-Wolf]

I can't answer the technical question you have; however I'll say that since using sera florina my plants have never looked healthier.

 

[George Farmer]

Not 100% sure but this is my take on the Sera fert.

ferric chloride - IRON

ethylene diamine tetraacetate - EDTA a chelating agent making available trace elements (like calcium, iron and magnesium salts, etc.)

manganous chloride - MANGANESE

magnesium chloride - MAGNESIUM

boric acid - BORON

sulphuric acid - SULPHUR

aqua purificata - WATER

I can't see Potassium which is surprising I must say.

It seems an ideal fertiliser for tanks with low to medium plant growth and medium to high fish stocking levels.

I would use the Hagen for higher growth rate tanks with low fish stocking as the NPK is available.

Hope this helps.

 

[kenneth_kpe]

what if i get both ? and dose the hagen around every 2 weeks or something to make up for the sera's lack of pottasium ?? my tank is around heavily stocked... thats why i think my nitrate never goes zero !

oh btw am i right in assuming that my nitrates dropped quite a lot (from around 30ppm to 10-15ppm) because i started fertilizing ?? im currently using up a small sera fert (nitrate free) and since i started fertilizing the plants should use up the nitrates again ? am i correct in assuming that the ferts is the reason for my lower nitrate levels ?

 

[George Farmer]

am i correct in assuming that the ferts is the reason for my lower nitrate levels ?

Possibly. Using the Sera may have increased plant growth thus increasing nitrate uptake. You could try both ferts if you have them - it shouldn't do any harm and could well boost your plant growth furthur.

Finding the best fertilising regime is one of the biggest challenges presented to the planted aquarist (assuming one has good light, substrate, CO2 etc.) There are many products available, some better than others. Recently I have learned a lot on Tom Barr's Estimative Index. I understand his theory is to "overload" the tank with fertilisers (Nitrates, Phosphates, Potassium and trace elements) - usually in the form of basic dry chemicals i.e. KNO3, K2SO4, KH2PO4, CSM+B mixed with water. Suggested levels are Nitrates 5-10 ppm, Phosphates 0.5-1.0 ppm, Iron 0.1-0.3 ppm, Potassium 10-20 ppm (not sure how to test for that though.)

The theory is that no one nutrient should be deficient therefore maintaining good plant growth - thus less algae growth. My first understandings of Phosphate levels have changed. I used to believe they should be kept as low as possible (why I used RowaPhos). Now I understand that this may limit plant growth to an extent where algae can thrive. Levels as high as PO4 2 mg/l are common in thriving planted tanks. In fact I now believe one reason I became infested with BGA was due in part to very low phosphate and nitrate levels.

I hope this hasn't confused too much. If your fert regime works then stick to it. I personally will continue with my Dennerle ferts (and KNO3) until they run out - I will then consider using the Estimative Index.

 

[iggy01]

Yes, I've seen many reports of people having success with the E.I. I think the good thing about it is... it encourages you to tailor the dosing to your own needs. In other words, watching the plants lets you know if they are being starved of a particular nutrient. You can start off with higher doses and then scale them down. I think the theory is, test kits aren't always reliable, but plants don't lie.

One of the problems with liquid ferts is the dosing recommendation on the bottle. It might say 10ml per week per 15 gallons. Is this for a heavily planted, high light tank, with Co2? Or a lightly planted, low light tank with no Co2? Someone owning the first tank could be under dosing. Where the person owning the second tank could be over dosing. Unfortunately they could both end up with algae problems.

 

[George Farmer]

Yes, I've seen many reports of people having success with the E.I. I think the good thing about it is... it encourages you to tailor the dosing to your own needs. In other words, watching the plants lets you know if they are being starved of a particular nutrient. You can start off with higher doses and then scale them down. I think the theory is, test kits aren't always reliable, but plants don't lie.

One of the problems with liquid ferts is the dosing recommendation on the bottle. It might say 10ml per week per 15 gallons. Is this for a heavily planted, high light tank, with Co2? Or a lightly planted, low light tank with no Co2? Someone owning the first tank could be under dosing. Where the person owning the second tank could be over dosing. Unfortunately they could both end up with algae problems.

Excellent points there.

I would say that EI is more relevant in set-ups that exhibit great plant growth attributed to high lighting levels, high CO2 level i.e. 30 mg/l and a decent substrate. As you say it is impossible to dose from the start exactly for a particular tank's needs using common liquid ferts.

Generally though, most of us (on this forum anyway) can acheive success using these common liquid ferts even though it is a matter of trial and error in finding the relevant dosages. I myself have used the Dennerle range to good effect (until recently) topped up with KNO3. Unfortunately Dennerle won't reveal their fert's ingredients so I really have no idea what I'm dosing and in what quantities.

Do you use the EI method yourself?

 

[iggy01]

Do you use the EI method yourself?

I wouldn't say I use it exactly as described because I don't have particularly high lighting. I use what could be described as a more tailored down version. I do dose KNO3 and use a liquid fert, but I don't add phosphates. Because my lighting isn't high, I figure I get enough potassium from the KNO3 ( could be wrong there though ). I do a 50% weekly water change though, just in case I'm overdosing on something.

 

[kenneth_kpe]

i see.. i should study my plants thats why with a planted tank its really important to just stare at it everyday im gonna buy both and see what happens and im also gonna read up on tom barrs article hehe