Captive care of Scorpionfish is rather easy, assuming the hobbyist meets a few basic requirements. First and foremost is feeding. Often, live foods will be required to entice newcomers to eat in a captive environment. Although commonly employed as a suitable live food source, frequent feedings of goldfish should be avoided. A diet of goldfish tends to lead to a thiamin deficiency in Scorpionfish, which often results in death from loss of nervous system coordination. Other complications derived from a steady diet of goldfish are a lack of marine-based HUFA, excessive fat, and ammonia toxicity (Marini, pers. comm.). Instead, the hobbyist should concentrate their efforts on getting a recently acquired Scorpionfish to accept prepared foods. Knowing the natural foods of a particular species is the first step in proper nutrition, and in finding suitable prepared food substitutes. Some Scorpionfish eat strictly fish, while others may eat only shrimp or crabs. Still others may accept just about anything that moves. Saltwater "silversides" maybe the best substitute for those requiring fish prey, while prawns are obviously the first choice for those that prefer shrimp. Initially, efforts to dupe the Scorpionfish into believing that the prepared foods are actually alive is the difficult part. The method most commonly used is to impale the dead fish or shrimp on a stick of some sort, such as a chopstick, rigid airline tubes, or thin acrylic rods. The next step is for the hobbyist to do his/her best job of making the prepared food appear alive by shaking or wiggling the stick that the food is impaled upon near the Scorpionfish. When feeding attempts during the day fail, try feeding at night. Most Scorpaenids are nocturnal, so feeding at night will be more natural.
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