Eractic Corries

nikkidancer

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Hello All

I have three bronze corries in my established 29 gallon community tank. All's been well, and I've been enjoying the little guys with the big personalities for a good six to eight months. Water condition, PH and temperature are all good, although I will admit to falling a bit behind on my water changes over the christmas season (usually done about 20% every two weeks).

In the last few days, I've noticed the two smaller corries acting strangely. On three or four separate occaisions I've seen them suddenly swim in rapid, jerky, flip flopping, somersaulting type motions. They also seem to have trouble keeping their balance on the floor of the tank. I'll often find them lying on their sides, or even on their backs! I've investigaged a number of times, and even thought one of them finally passed away today, only to attempt to scoop him and have him swim off, full of life.

And the full of life thing is what puzzles me. When given a nudge, they spring to life. At feeding time, they are as enthusiatic about snuffling about for food as ever. They don't *seem* to be dying, but they are way off kilter...

I've read around a bit and wonder if this might be a problem with the swim bladder? If so, can this be treated (as naturally as possible - I hate mucking about with medications and such and have limited success in the few times I've attempted it - although if I have to do it, I will). Or will they learn to 'live with it', as they are still eating and active at times.

Of course, I may be off and it's not swim bladder - I hope someone can clue me in on what it is and how to treat my guys.

Other inhabitants are four platties, seven white clouds, a male betta, and three ottos. I'd like to be sure that anything I treat with won't affect the rest of the tankmates - especially knowing how sensitive ottos can be. I could try to set up a hospital tank for the corries and treat them separated from the community tank, but I've seen how this can stress out sick fish and in my experience the removed fish end up dying anyway (and I felt guilty about stressing them out and it possibly contributing to their death)...

Help please!

Thanks so much.

Nikki
 
Corys are very prone to bacterial probems, and they sound like they have swim bladder.

Not the writer of this information.
Swim Bladder Disorder



The Swim bladder is a gas-filled sac located inside the fish’s body cavity just above most of the other internal organs. This sac is what gives the fish buoyancy and controls equilibrium. The amount of gas in this sac changes as the fish rises and sinks in the water, enabling it to swim, hover and move in the water. Without the use of the Swim-bladder organ a fish is unable to control it's own movements.



Symptoms:

Fish with a swim bladder disorder appear to have an abnormal swimming pattern, usually with their tail end up. They also appear to have difficulty maintaining equilibrium. They may even float upside down or appear to be stuck at the surface of the water, being unable to swim down, or they may lie on the bottom, unable to rise. Fish with a swim bladder disorder will continue to try and feed, showing a normal appetite.



Cause:

The most common cause of swim bladder disorders is improper diet. An improper diet can lead to intestinal gas or intestinal blockages. Intestinal blockages can irritate the bowel, giving bacteria or other parasites an entry point where they can then cause damage to the swim bladder. Swim bladder disorders are most common in the larger, deep-bodied varieties of Goldfish. Fish also fed a lot of dried foods, especially pellets, are most susceptible. This condition is frequently observed in the later stages of Malawi Bloat, which is primarily due to an improper diet as well and intestinal irritation.



Treatment:

Because this disorder is due principally to an improper diet, a change in their feeding needs to be made. Dried foods with lots of protein should be kept to a minimum. Pellets and other dense foods should be soaked prior to feeding or completely eliminated from their diet. Foods with lots of fiber should be introduced, such as zucchini, squash, spinach, romaine lettuce, peas, and grated carrots. If you suspect that the fish is victim to a bacterial infection, treat the fish with a medicated food.
 
Hi Nikki_D :)

Welcome to the forum. :hi: It's too bad that you are joining us under these sad circumstances. I hope your fish get well and you continue to post,

When corys act erratic, it's most likely as a result of a bacterial infection. There can be other symptoms too.

This happens when the corys become infected with harmful bacteria, which are normally in the tank in small numbers. This is usually the result of some form of stress weakening their immune systems. This could happen through overcrowding, high nitrate or nitrite readings, aggressive tankmates, temperature fluctuations, low oxygen content in the water or insufficient or infrequent water changes and bottom vacuuming.

I suggest you move them to a hospital tank and treat them with an antibiotic like Kanamycin or tetracycline, if you are in the US. If you are in the UK, you could use Waterlife's Myxazin or Interpet's Anti Finrot & Fungus medicine.

It will also help if the water temperature is kept no higher than 75 degrees F. and if you increase the oxygen content by adding an airstone, if necessary.

Good luck with them.
 
Thank you both for your replies and welcome. That article was very insightful. I may be guilty of providing a poor diet - they all prefer the dried flake food, which I supplement with dried blood worms. I used to give them an algy/shrimp pellet, but they'd take a nibble or two and then move on, looking for the flakes! No one, including the ottos, have shown an interest in veggies (the ottos probably have enough algy to keep them going, so they're not hungry for 'something new'). Perhaps I'll try letting them get a little hungrier and then dropping a veggie for them while limiting the amount of flake I surface feed to the rest of the tank (usually I feed enough for the top feeders to get some, with a few flakes falling to the bottom for the corries).

Looks like my water temperature might be slightly high as well (77 to 79). I'll lower it.

Airation is good though, with a decent sized waterfall filter plus a bubble curtain along the back wall of the tank.

Nikki
 
P.S. do you think they'll be okay in the main tank for a few more days until I can get to the fish supply store for the medication? Unfortunately the places around here close by 5 or 6, and I'm not home from work until after 6... I'll make up an excuse to leave work early if necessary, but I'm on set hours, with an office mate away on vacation, so it may not be possible to get the time off. I'd send my BF, but he's away on business... not sure here - are they dying without the medication?
 

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