EMERGENCY!!!! Gourami possibly has the shakes

Durbkat

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My opaline gourami seems to stay in the middle of the tank and goes back and forth in one place. Is this the shakes or what? Need immediate advice before I put him in a new tank.
 
Need water stats in ammonia,nitrite,nitrate,and ph, what size tank and how many fish, he could be stressed due to poor water quality.
 
Also shaking can be a sign of a parasite, does the fish look like he has been sprinkled in salt, and yellow to gold dusting on the fish even velvet can also be a rust colour, any red inflamed gills.
 
Whats the tank temperature?
 
PH normal
Ammonia .0
Nitrite .0
Nitrate .0 So perfect water. Them temp is 79. And never mind about the shaking he stopped. And their are no other fish in the tank. And he did just come out of a tank the had alittle poop on the bottom. And he is in a 2.5 minibow with filter, a fake plant, and a cave/tunnel. And no he does not have anything that looks like salt has been sprinkled on him or a gold or yellow or rust dust on him.And no imflamed gills. Do you all think he was just stressed in the 1g tank he was in.And the reson he is in these small tanks you might ask is because he is to aggresive to live with any other fish. And this is temperary until I can return him to the lps.
 
Did the temps match where you took him from, as if it didn't that would explain the shaking.
 
Wait! I just turned the light on in his tank and he is shaking again and their is something on those two fins that are one each side of his gills that look likes salt has been shakin on them. So what does the shaking mean know?
 
You need a whitespot med, add some salt turn temp up to 30.
 
Did you mean 30 celius? And would he bo ok for a few days and just let the pet store deal with it when I return him? And is this diease called the shakes just in case they say I have to treat him first? And I don't have a heater for a 2.5 tank to raise the temp. And can only find 50 watt heaters which I know you have to get a 25 watt.
 
I will leave you an article to whitespot don't leave it whitespot can kill if left untreated, i doubt the lfs would wan't it back with whitespot
 
Whats the name of the medicine again? And should I put him back in his 1g tank because I had planned on putting my betta back in the 2.5g tank after I got rid of him and I don't want the color of my water in my 2.5 to change or the appearance of it either and I don't want it to change the water quality or any medicine left in the water once I treat him.
 
How big of a tank was he in before you put him in the 2.5 gal? I agree with wilder, this is white spot (aka ich), and you should treat him. the shaking back and forth can be from him itching. Raising the temp to 84-86, add aquarium salt (1 tbsp for 5 gal), and an ich med. there are lots avaliable, the specific med will depend on where you are.

EDIT: Did the shaking start while he was in your main tank?
 
Could I use this medicine for ich called NOX-ICH? Before I put in the 2.5 he was in a 1g and before that he was in a long 20g until I found out he was aggressive. No it dodn't start until a few days after he was in the 1g but I thought it was from the airstone mabye making a current which was drawing him in towards it but now I know it wasn't. So would a temp of 76-79 be ok to treat him in a 1g tank?
 
I would treat him in the 2.5 gallon tank. a 1 gal is really too small for any gouramis, as is a 2.5 gallon, but atleast it is bigger than the 1. Nox-Ich would work. Why we are telling you to raise the temp is it will speed up the ich life cycle, and help you treat the disease faster. Check out this article on the ich life cycle.

http://badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article2.html

As long as he has been out of the tank before the shaking started, you should be safe and not need to treat your entire other tank. Ich is generally one of those diseases where if one fish gets it, everyone gets it.
 
as for the heater at walmart(if u have one in town) they sell small heaters made for 2-5 gal tanks. also i you can just get one made for a 10 gal for a while. the higher temp increases the lifecycle of the ick thus making it possible to cure faster. if you want to get a different med i have found rid-ich to be very effective. the coloring will disappear after a while and only stains silicon, certain plastics and some materials used to make decorations. the only 2.5 gal tank i know of comes with an internal filter that uses a filter cardrige comprised of a plasitc peice covered with a cloth martial(cant remember the name right now) and carbon. while treating you need to remove the carbon. after wards reaplace the carbon and that will remove the meds.

as for treating it: remove the carbon from your filter and rasie the temp to around 84 f. treat with the ich med of your choice and follow the directions EXACTLY as the meds are very harmfull. also aquarium salt helps too. you need to keep treating untill atleast a few days after you see the last ich spot on your fish to make sure its gone. then replace the carbon to remove the meds. i have found it helpfull to do a through gravel vac before treating, every other day while treating and after treatment as the ich cysts hide in the gravel while multiplying.
 

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