Electric Shock From Submerged Pump

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nick1200

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ok so i thought id cycle my sump be for setting up my tank. So i bought a submerged pump. I filled my sump up and put the submerged pump into the sump. I read all the leaflets and read that the submerged pump can go under water and that the wiring is all coated so no water can get in. So i turned the pump on and all was going well. I then put my hand into the sump to grab some of the filter media and then got a electric shock and the trip switch to the house electrics went off ( so all electric went off after i had the shock. )   So i have chucked the pump out. I am just wondering if i buy a external pump and have it out side of the sump will this stop me electric shock's ? I wanted to go down the submerged pump root but pretty scared of using them now. Could i use a external ? Would that decrease the chance of getting a submerged pump electric shock ? I am also getting pretty scared of buying a new heater just in case it ever cracks and i get another electric shock ...
The only thing that was in the sump water water and filter media and the submerged pump there was no heater or anything..
 
Step 1: never put your hands in the water without switching off electric items.

Step 2: return pump for refund unless second hand in a private sale.

Step 3: brag about surviving!
 
Hello,
 
Glad to hear that you are still with us....!!
 
People get very complacent with electricity.. until it bites them on the behind!
 
It would seem that your sump pump was faulty to the point of being potentially lethal.
 
A **very** good habit to get into is to turn off the supply to your tank before you stick your hand in it.
 
Keep safe!
 
Bodge99.
 
The pump was brand new. And im just a bit scared of buying another pump or heater. I have to buy a pump and heater for my 6ft tank. I have heard i can buy a earth kit which can sit in the tank and can earth everything out, I think there called  "Aquarium Grounding Probe"  i am guessing this will stop it from happening next time ? Also i am guessing if i buy a new heater and it ever breaks i guess the first ever sign will be me getting a shock ?  A few years ago when i first got into keeping fish i looked in my tank and all my fish was swimming normally so went out and bought a new fish when adding it my hand touched the water and i my hand got chucked out of the tank. I found out that the heater had cracked and the water had electric in.The fish was swimming fine in the water tho so i donno how that is ???  Would it be best to use a external filter with no filter media in for the sump ?
 
The fish were fine because they were not "earthed" like you were. When you touched the water you completed the circuit thus getting an electric shock.
If you wear rubber soled shoes you won't feel anything. ;)
 
Oh, we used to get zapped all the time, does encourage the habit of turning things off as people say. Old heaters with rubber seals or badly sealed lighting units were usually my culprits. Pumps tend to be fairly reliable wiring wise, but, as suggested, this is a failure of it's purpose and it should be returned from whence it came for a replacement or refund, depending on the laws of the land you're in and what the shop offers.
 
As for external filters and such like, they are no excuse. All electrical appliances connected to water should be treated with respect, regardless of how obvious the water immersion is. As I said, my main culprits included the lighting rigs. They would electrocute anyone who touched the hood once the damp had gotten in.
 
Personally I advise trip switches on everything and kill the power for messing with the tank, but I will admit that I don't always practice what I preach.

Blondielovesfish said:
The fish were fine because they were not "earthed" like you were. When you touched the water you completed the circuit thus getting an electric shock.
If you wear rubber soled shoes you won't feel anything.
wink.png
 
Unless there's enough voltage to clear the gap you've created.........although you're probably right.........probably.
 
I refer back to step 1)

If you follow this step, your first indication of a cracked thermometer will be after you have switched it off, as well as your pump. For that matter, get yourself an RCD, it will help save your life and your house fuse. Also if there is ANY chance your lights could fall into water, make sure you switch them off too.

Your fish were fine because they were not bridging the current from negative to positive (think birds on a wire here).
Personally I advise trip switches on everything and kill the power for messing with the tank, but I will admit that I don't always practice what I preach.
I once received a call from a very frightened wife after the cat set my fish tank on fire by creating a short in the electrics. RCD onto 3 double gang sockets which allow me to individually switch as I see fit, but all are protected by the RCD. I could add a single in-line switch on the supply cable if i wanted a 1 switch on/off approach.
 
dgwebster said:
I refer back to step 1)

If you follow this step, your first indication of a cracked thermometer will be after you have switched it off, as well as your pump. For that matter, get yourself an RCD, it will help save your life and your house fuse. Also if there is ANY chance your lights could fall into water, make sure you switch them off too.

Your fish were fine because they were not bridging the current from negative to positive (think birds on a wire here).
Personally I advise trip switches on everything and kill the power for messing with the tank, but I will admit that I don't always practice what I preach.
I once received a call from a very frightened wife after the cat set my fish tank on fire by creating a short in the electrics. RCD onto 3 double gang sockets which allow me to individually switch as I see fit, but all are protected by the RCD. I could add a single in-line switch on the supply cable if i wanted a 1 switch on/off approach.
 
 
Your set up sounds very much like what I have, although I have 4 double gangs, 2 heaters, 2 circulation pumps, lights, CO2 solenoid, powerhead and a spare. I do have the main isolation switch as well, mainly because I had one lying around.
 
I always prefer to use double gangs with pattress boxes over extension cables any day. Custom lengths, dirt cheap and you can fit two timers side-by-side.

Spot the fact my father was a sparky though eh?
 

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