I don't have enough room for a sump or refigium so I thought why not use the next best thing a canister filter but wanted to know if Ehiem was a good brand to use. the guy at the fish store recommended it but I wanted an honest opinion as sometimes those people lie thanks for all the help. dave
Ehiem Canister Filter
- Thread starter Lovesfish
- Start date
The June FOTM Contest Poll is open!
🏆 Click to vote! 🏆
All my filters are eheim.
The new(ish) pro3 2080 would be great as it is a good size and there are some excellent deals around for it.
An alternative which is a bit cheaper is the Fluval FX5 - which is also large capacity but a lot cheaper.
(Fluval filters are not as high quality, but from what I've heard this is pretty good and a bargain).
The new(ish) pro3 2080 would be great as it is a good size and there are some excellent deals around for it.
An alternative which is a bit cheaper is the Fluval FX5 - which is also large capacity but a lot cheaper.
(Fluval filters are not as high quality, but from what I've heard this is pretty good and a bargain).
Aquascaper
Fish Aficionado
I have had an eheim for about 3 years and not need a spare part yet. Best thing to do is to remove all the media trays and break up some live rock and run it like that. The fast flow through the canister will give excellent filteration from the live rock and will act as good as a small sump.
arent the trays supposed to diffuse the water flow to give it the best contact with the bio media? Taking away the trays seems backwards to what makes eheims so nice.
The trays also make it easy to change our or clean only a certain portion of the bio media instead of disturbing all of it.
I've heard people running the Eheims with LR and filter media (phosphate binder, ChemiPure, eg...) and removing any ceramics etc. SH
triggerhappy
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2006
- Messages
- 10
- Reaction score
- 0
I use a Ehiem Professional Trickle canaster and its the dogs . You can add other media if you require but it mainly uses effiestrat media
Aquascaper
Fish Aficionado
It's near enough impossible to fit live rock into the trays of any external cannister filter, thus they have to be removed. As the water is dragged upwards throught the cannister it is diffused by the irregular shape of the live rock (better than any tray can do). Once live rock is in the cannister you would never need to 'clean' it as any food or crap sucked into it will be broken down and disposed of by the massive amounts of bacteria in the live rock. The principal behind live rock in an external filter is that is totally self-sustaining and needs no maintenance, similar to a sump.
Ok ... so do i have to use phosphate binder and ChemiPure with LR or No need for it with LR???
Aquascaper
Fish Aficionado
You shouldn't need to use chemical 'scrubbers' at all as you should only be using pure RO/DI water anyway. The only thing that can build up in the water is Nitrates and live rock can handle that.
If you search around you'll find another post where this was discussed and all the options and methods laid out.
If you search around you'll find another post where this was discussed and all the options and methods laid out.
RO stands for Reverse Osmosis. Water is passed through a membrane and separated from contaminants mechanically.
DI stands for De-Ionized otherwise known as triple distilled. Distillation heats water up till evaporation and or steam and then re-condenses the evaporate into a second container. The second container of evaporated water is mostly devoid of trace elements. Distilling (evaporating) 3 times purifies the water of 99.9% of contaminants.
Both methods create pure H20 and remove phosphates, nitrates, calcium, potassium, iodine, trace metals, ammonia, nitrites, poison, chlorine, chloramine, basically everything that is bad for your tank is removed through either process (so is everything good, so careful supplimentation needs to be followed). RO units are generally cheaper, but you have to buy more membranes over time. DI units are more expensive but cost less to run over time. If you know anyone who works in a chem lab, you could bug them to bring you home a gallon or two of DI water as jsut about every chem lab I know has supplied DI water.
DI stands for De-Ionized otherwise known as triple distilled. Distillation heats water up till evaporation and or steam and then re-condenses the evaporate into a second container. The second container of evaporated water is mostly devoid of trace elements. Distilling (evaporating) 3 times purifies the water of 99.9% of contaminants.
Both methods create pure H20 and remove phosphates, nitrates, calcium, potassium, iodine, trace metals, ammonia, nitrites, poison, chlorine, chloramine, basically everything that is bad for your tank is removed through either process (so is everything good, so careful supplimentation needs to be followed). RO units are generally cheaper, but you have to buy more membranes over time. DI units are more expensive but cost less to run over time. If you know anyone who works in a chem lab, you could bug them to bring you home a gallon or two of DI water as jsut about every chem lab I know has supplied DI water.
Similar threads
Most reactions
-
435 -
274 -
228 -
219 -
205 -
193 -
184 -
160 -
126 -
123 -
114 -
112 -
92 -
90 -
85