Gandalf-LoJ
New Member
I've recently upgraded to a new Eheim Wet/Dry thermo filter after being wooed by the product details here (ok, so I'm a tech nut!)
I also inject pressurised CO2 for my heavily planted and lighted tank. This was running great with a stable CO2 level of around 30-35ppm. This was injected via a diffuser inside the tank, and was run via a solenoid connected to the same timer that operates the lights. With the new filter I changed to an external reactor to keep the intank hardware to a minimum (also one less thing to clean! Diffusers seem to attract algae and gunk!)
Imagine my surprise after only 8 hours of running the new filter and reactor that my CO2 had dropped to almost 0. I've now had to increase the flow of the CO2 so much that the bubble counter just shows a constant stream of bubbles now and it's impossible to count them! Even that only barely gets the CO2 level back to what it was. And at night when the CO2 is off it drops back to almost 0 again so my PH shoots back to 8 again. With CO2 at 30ppm the PH is 7.2 (GH is 15.5 here) This is a huge swing and I'm not happy about that! Before this filter was added it was stable throughout the night and everything was peachy.
I guess I should have read the description a bit more carefully, especially this part.
Now, this filter does actually work really well, and I think for a normal tank with no plants (or no CO2 injection) it'd be fantastic, it has a little tide effect and the current also changes due to the fill and empty cycle of the filter. My fish actually love this, especially the guppies, they love swimming against the current!
Anyway, I hope this assists anyone who has CO2 injection and are also thinking about this filter. DON'T! Stick with a normal one!
I'll be purchasing a normal one later today. (just don't tell my bank!)
I also inject pressurised CO2 for my heavily planted and lighted tank. This was running great with a stable CO2 level of around 30-35ppm. This was injected via a diffuser inside the tank, and was run via a solenoid connected to the same timer that operates the lights. With the new filter I changed to an external reactor to keep the intank hardware to a minimum (also one less thing to clean! Diffusers seem to attract algae and gunk!)
Imagine my surprise after only 8 hours of running the new filter and reactor that my CO2 had dropped to almost 0. I've now had to increase the flow of the CO2 so much that the bubble counter just shows a constant stream of bubbles now and it's impossible to count them! Even that only barely gets the CO2 level back to what it was. And at night when the CO2 is off it drops back to almost 0 again so my PH shoots back to 8 again. With CO2 at 30ppm the PH is 7.2 (GH is 15.5 here) This is a huge swing and I'm not happy about that! Before this filter was added it was stable throughout the night and everything was peachy.
I guess I should have read the description a bit more carefully, especially this part.
The wet/dry technology of this external canister filter series fills and empties the filter canister regularly. As a result the biological filter material and the useful purification bacteria come into contact with a high level of oxygen. The purification bacteria work more intensively, thus effectuating extremely efficient decomposition of pollutants. We call it a “breathing“ change-over contact which is regulated by a reliably functioning wet/dry floater compartment. After filtering only cleaned water with a high oxygen content returns into the aquarium.
Now, this filter does actually work really well, and I think for a normal tank with no plants (or no CO2 injection) it'd be fantastic, it has a little tide effect and the current also changes due to the fill and empty cycle of the filter. My fish actually love this, especially the guppies, they love swimming against the current!
Anyway, I hope this assists anyone who has CO2 injection and are also thinking about this filter. DON'T! Stick with a normal one!
I'll be purchasing a normal one later today. (just don't tell my bank!)