A decent and well maintained filter, capable of supporting the bioload of the tank, will take care of the Ammonia and Nitrite produced by fish waste. Adding live plants will help to keep the NitrAtes down (Nitrates are the end product of the nitrogen cycle, which is less toxic to the fish than Ammonia and Nitrites, but still harmful in large quantities)
The sure way to keep Nitrates down is by partial water changes (trusting your water supply has a low Nitrate reading) The higher the bioload, the more filtration and water changes necessary.
With regards to heating the water to tank temperature, it really depends on your routine. If you have space to let buckets of tap water "age" for 24 hours or so, then this is one way of raising the tap water to room temperature. This will also allow time for chlorine in the water to evaporate, and for the pH to settle. In my opinion, it is only necessary to "age" water this way if you have a sizeable difference in Ph between your tap water and your tank and don't want to chemically alter this (you shouldn't) or you don't use RO or distilled water as a percentage of your tank volume.
Standing your water to "age" will not remove chloramines from the water; only chemicals will do this (chloramines are more "stable" than chlorine, they will not evaporate, and are equally harmful to the bacteria that supports your tank)
In short? A percentage of boiled water added to your bucket will increase the temperature, and a dechlorinator that removes chloramines as well as chlorine (such as Ammo Lock 2) will negate the necessity to let your water stand. When I used buckets, I recall 3-4 litres of boiled water in a 30 litre bucket was enough - add a thermometer to the bucket to be sure before you add it to the tank, though!
This is just my opinion

Good luck!