Cycled Tank Vs. Mature Tank

cryslea

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I've been reading the "Fishless Cycling" thread that's pinned at the top of the forum. In it, there's a 9 month old conversation stating that a cycled tank is different from a mature tank. Could someone please tell me a bit more about this? How long does it take a tank to mature? What factors into it? How can you tell your tank is mature?

I'm especially curious because the conversation mentioned that some fish, like panda cories, need a mature tank. I had been thinking about panda cories, and have read other fish descriptions that stated the fish needed a mature tank. I just assumed that meant the fish should not be used for fish-in cycling, and disregarded that info as I'm doing a fishless cycle. Do I need to rethink any fish I've chosen that are stated as needing a mature tank? And if so, when my fishless cycle is done, should I wait awhile before adding fish like panda cories that need a mature tank?

Thanks guys! :)
 
Most people on this site will say a tank is mature after 6 months or so, where as some people would say a year or two! A tank gets mature by just being in operation with fish in living successfully, you are right about the panda cories they would be better off in an established tank, also fish like cardinal tetras like a matured tank. :good:
 
Aside from the appropriate water chemistry for fish to thrive in (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, water temp and water hardness), what decides the difference between a fully cycled tank and a mature tank?

In other words, there is science behind a cycled tank " The nitrogen cycle," but is there any science behind a mature tank?


What part of my water chemistry or any other aspect of my water will change in the upcoming months, taking into consideration that the tank is fully cycled, water specs are good, ph very stable, and i wont be adding any other fish?

I to am hoping to learn something about a mature tank in this post. :)

Thanks :good:
 
A cycled tank is simply one where there is enough beneficial bacteria to handle the waste load of the fish so the ammonia and nitrite are always zero. A mature tank is one that has been running long enough that a bio-film has covered everything in the tank making it less susceptible to a major problem. It is generally considered that it takes about 6 months for this bio-film to develop enough for the tank to be considered mature.

Since the OP mentioned the Fishless Cycling thread, I will say that mature media basically means the same as cycled media. It is media that has beneificial bacteria colonized on it so that it can be moved to a new tank and speed the cycling process in the new tank.
 
So panda cories and kuhlii loaches are out, yes?

Rummy nose tetras and dwarf gouramis are okay, though? I don't remember seeing anything about them needing a mature tank, but thought I'd better check.
 
Rummy nose tetras are pretty sensitive so I would wait awhile before adding them.

Not exactly sure of the science in "bio-film" but I would agree with what was said. I would class a 6 month old tank that is running without any problems and has healthy fish as being mature. By this stage the water chemistry is normally stable (the PH will normally have dropped and stabilised slightly lower then your tap water), any bad things (parasites, etc) that where going to cause a problem would have become apprent.

I have however stocked sensitive fish in tanks that are only 3 months old though and they have done fine. I did though make sure they where fully cycled and the water chemistry was stable first though.
 
Cool, never had heard of bio-film ;)

Did some research on bio-film and found this

Bio film – A slimy matrix produced and inhabited by bacteria which enables the bacteria to adhere to a surface and carry out certain biochemical processes essential to the Nitrogen Cycle. In open aquatic environments, bio film supports a microscopic community of various species of bacteria including nitrifying bacteria, algae, protozoa, and microscopic invertebrates. In the aquarium, bio film covers all surfaces exposed to water, and tends to build up in the dark, undisturbed areas such as the filter intake tube and other filter parts.

[post="0"]http://www.aquahobby.com/articles/e_glossary.php[/post]

Definition: Bio film is a coating on the surface of a living or nonliving substrate composed of biological organisms such bacteria, protozoa, algae, and invertebrate animals.

[post="0"]http://freshaquarium.about.com/od/termsandtables/g/biofilm.htm[/post]

Couldn't find much info on what bio-film exactly does except that it helps out with the Nitrogen cycle. None of the reading I did brought up any key benefits directly to fish.

Aside from the nitrogen cycle and stable water (ph and other test readings,) is bio-film the only thing that determines a mature tank from a cycled one?

So does anyone know how bio-film effects fish?

Forgot to add, how does bio film make a tank less susceptible to a major problem?

Thanks again!!
 
With the bio-film present, you have all the bacteria present that you need. So any sudden changes can be handled. In a newer tank, all those bacteria may not be present so changes can create problems. And as the above post mentioned, these aren't strictly nitrifying bacteria but others too. Some bacteria help break down left over food for instance. As for the fish, it really doesn't do anything directly for them. It just helps keep the tank more stable which is good for the fish in the long run.
 
With the bio-film present, you have all the bacteria present that you need. So any sudden changes can be handled. In a newer tank, all those bacteria may not be present so changes can create problems. And as the above post mentioned, these aren't strictly nitrifying bacteria but others too. Some bacteria help break down left over food for instance. As for the fish, it really doesn't do anything directly for them. It just helps keep the tank more stable which is good for the fish in the long run.


Is this why bigger tanks are generally more stable than the smaller ones? More bio-film to quickly compensate for sudden changes?
 
Is this why bigger tanks are generally more stable than the smaller ones? More bio-film to quickly compensate for sudden changes?
I don't know that to be a fact but I'm sure that is part of it.
 

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