Cycle With Fish

[mouse33]

I know u shouldn't do this but if you did is this right
Typical Cycle using fish.

Ok the following is only a guide and only by testing with a kit that does Ammonia,Nitrite and Nitrate you will know the true state of the tanks progress.
Start by doing "no" water changes for about 2 weeks by which time the Ammonia level should be comming down with nitrite levels spiking. Then do about a 20% water change. Then after about another 2 weeks of no water changes the nitrite should be declining with nitrates starting to rise. If all goes well you should be able to start regular 20 to 30% water changes. (During the cycle feed the fish sparingly to avoid a bio overload effect) A fully cycled tank will read Ammonia 0,Nitrite 0,nitrate under 40ppm and under 20ppm or lower is best. If your using fish that you want to keep and they start showing signs of severe stress you can do 5 to 10% weekly water changes (More in real bad cases) This will naturally lengthen the time it takes to cycle the tank considerably.Also adding aquarium salt (or non iodized cooking salt) at a rate of 1 table spoon per 5 US gallons (about 20litres) of water will help will help reduce the effects of nitrite toxicity.
The actual time it takes can vary a lot as temperature,ph,whether or not you use gravel,filter media from an established tank and other factors can play an effect on how fast or slow a cycle will finish.

Also note that a tank doesant have to be new to restart a cycle. This can be caused by too much off a water change too often, overloading a tank with too many fish, using certain medications will kill off the nitrifying bacteria needed to keep the tank healthy
THIS WAS TAKEN FROM WORLDCICHLIDS.COM


When it says to do a 20 to 30 percent water change does that mean per week.

thanks

 

[Lynda B]

This is what my husband and I used and it worked beautifully for us. Neither of us lost a fish but we also have beautiful tap water to work with:


A Typical Break-In Cycle

Day 1
The newly-added fish (tank will not begin cycle until fish or some other source of ammonia is added) have not yet produced any measurable amount of ammonia. All readings should be near zero.

Day 3
Ammonia level rises rapidly to near-dangerous; break-in fish may show some signs of discomfort, such as rapid breathing, poor feeding and darting about. First stage bacteria are beginning to become established, but their numbers are low at this point.

Day 5
Ammonia level reaches its peak and begins to decline as first stage bacteria begin to convert it into nitrite. Nitrite levels begin to rise. Weaker fish may succumb to ammonia poisoning; a partial water change will dilute ammonia and reduce stress.

Day 8
First stage bacteria are well established and are processing ammonia as fast as the fish are producing it. Ammonia level returns to zero and nitrites climb rapidly. Fish may perk up due to temporary reprieve from stressful conditions.

Day 14
Nitrite levels reach their peak. Fish may again show some signs of distress. Small water changes (up to 20%) can help protect break-in fish without significantly prolonging cycling time.

Day 27
Nitrite levels continue to be elevated for several weeks as the second stage bacteria begin turning nitrite into nitrate.

Day 29
Second stage bacteria multiply rapidly and begin to catch up with built up nitrite. Nitrite levels drop rapidly and nitrate level becomes detectable.

Day 30
Both first and second stage bacteria are now well established and can keep up with the ammonia output of the fish, turning it first into nitrite and then immediately into nitrate. Tank is now "cycled" and ready for additional livestock.

 

[rdd1952]

I know u shouldn't do this but if you did is this right
Typical Cycle using fish.

Ok the following is only a guide and only by testing with a kit that does Ammonia,Nitrite and Nitrate you will know the true state of the tanks progress.
Start by doing "no" water changes for about 2 weeks by which time the Ammonia level should be comming down with nitrite levels spiking. Then do about a 20% water change. Then after about another 2 weeks of no water changes the nitrite should be declining with nitrates starting to rise.

I have to totally disagree. By the time 2 weeks have passed, your fish will be severely suffering from ammonia poisoning as the mmonia will have hit at least 4 to 5 ppm by then. Nitrie will aslo probably be 4ppm or higher. Your fish will be in serious trouble. You should start testing for ammonia and nitrite the day after you add fish and should test at least twicce a day and do water chages as needed to keep the ammonia and nitrite at or below .25ppm.

During the cycle feed the fish sparingly to avoid a bio overload effect

I agree.

If your using fish that you want to keep and they start showing signs of severe stress you can do 5 to 10% weekly water changes (More in real bad cases) This will naturally lengthen the time it takes to cycle the tank considerably.

I would also disagree with this. A 20 to 30 percent water change is perfectly fine and in most cases necessary to keep toxins low. Also, water changes dont effect the length of time it takes the tank to cycle unless you are doing 100% water changes which is removing all the ammonia. As long as there are ammonia and nitrite present, the tank will continue to cycle. A higher level doesn't make it go any faster.

I also dont agree with what they are suggesting in the first sentence when they mention if your planning to keep the fish. You should never get fish that you plan to discard after the cycle is over unless you have someone that will take them or the LFS will allow you to return them. Simply killing fish that were used for cycling is not acceptable.

Also note that a tank doesant have to be new to restart a cycle. This can be caused by too much off a water change too often, overloading a tank with too many fish, using certain medications will kill off the nitrifying bacteria needed to keep the tank healthy
THIS WAS TAKEN FROM WORLDCICHLIDS.COM

While it's true that different things can cause a tank to recycle, the frequency and amount of water changes isn't one of them unless you are not using dechlorinator or are over cleaning your filters. There is no bacteria present on the water so a 100% water change leaves you with the same amount of bacteria as you had before hand.

When it says to do a 20 to 30 percent water change does that mean per week.
thanks

I don't think I would trust much that site had to say if that is the advise they are giving. In a cycled tank you should do a 20 to 25 percent water change every week. Possibly more often or in larger quantity if youre heavily stocked. How high your nitrate level is should be the key. The main purpose of water changes is to remove nitrates.