Cyanobacteria is one of the nuisance growths that we may find in our tanks during the maturation process or even later. It can be one of the more frustrating problems we run into along with hair algae and diatom blooms. Understanding a little bit about it may help you to fight it in your tank.
What is Cyano?
Cyanobacteria are one of the oldest living microscopic organisms on earth. This organism has been in existence for more than 3.5 billion years. In fact, some articles describe it as a fossil. It is reputed to be the source of most organic material on earth and also the main source of oxygen. Cyanobacteria have many names including blue-green, red, purple, black and green slime algaes although they are not true algae. The color arises from a pigment in the cell which assists chlorophyll in photosynthesis. In fact, theories state that cyanobacteria may have been the source of choloroplasts, the structues that contain chlorophyll, in present plant cells. In nature, cyanobacteria can be found in water that is contaminated or is high in nitrates or phosphates.
Cyano Facts
1) Cyano is a large bacterium that is aerobic but can live under anaerobic conditions
2) It can tolerate extremes of temperature and salinity
3) Develops a protective mucous layer which gives rise to its 'slimy' nature.
4) can trap gas bubbles
5) can develop a modified cell called an akinete which stores carbohydrates under adverse conditions to aid in survival
6) can appear in multiple colors as listed above.
7) has an EXTREMELY FAST growth rate and can double every 20 minutes
How Do I Know I Have It?
The first sign that you may have cyano is seeing very fine bubbles adherent to your live rock or substrate followed by the development of a slimy layer which is frequently red, but may have any of the colors listed above. This layer is lighter than water (if not adherent to sand) and will float if lifted off the rock. It can spread rapidly and then can develop a filamentous-type appearance. Picture of cyanobacteria on substrate (on the right side):
Why Did I Get it In My Tank?
This type of bacteria thrives in water that is high in nitrates and phosphates. Unfortunately, it is usually a sign of excess nutrients in the water. But don't take that too personally as a sign of poor water husbandry. Frequently, it can start when there is an undiscovered death of an animal or organism that is in your tank. However, it is more commonly related to excess nutrients. Many claim that 'low flow' is a cause, however, there is no proven evidence that this is the case. So, possible causes include:
--overfeeding
--undiscovered death of a tank inhabitant
--excess phosphates (using water or topoff that is high in phosphates)
--poor water maintenance, ie, poor nutrient export
So, What Do I Do Now?
Eradicating cyanobacteria, once established, is a frustrating experience that requires patience and attention to tank maintenance. Here are some of the most common recommendations to aid you:
1) Change feeding habits, many recommend every other day feeding, to reduce nitrates
2) Although no strong evidence to support this, consider increasing water flow or redirecting flow to dead areas
3) Skim
4) Find the source of contamination and remove it
5) Increase the frequency of water changes
6) Siphon off the cyanobacteria to help reduce the load. You can use airline tubing attached to hard plastic tubing. You can also vacuum the substrate to remove detritus. Use a turkey baster to float if off the LR and then suction it up with a turkey baster. Be forewarned..it grows back quickly
7) Change to RO/DI water if you are not using it to reduce phosphates
8 ) Consider adding a phosphate binding media insert.
9) You can consider reducing lighting but this is often of little help
10) Add cyano-eating livestock. Some cyano eaters include Mexican Red Leg Hermit Crabs, Astrea snails and Trochus snails. Here is a photo of my astrea snail eating cyano:
There is no silver bullet. Using these techniques can take up to several weeks before the cyano regresses and patience cannot be overemphasized.
Desperate Times Require Desperate Measures
This is a controversial paragraph I am including but there is a growing number of people who are trying chemical methods to eradicate cyanobacteria with both excellent results and not so great. I don't put this here as a recommendation nor as a substitute for good water husbandry, but for completeness.
There are several water treatments available to treat cyanobacteria and many of these contain the antibiotic erythromycin. Erythromycin inhibits protein sythesis and is used generally against aerobic gram positive bacteria but does effect gram negatives as well (nitrosamonas and nitrobacter are gram negative). There are many risks entailed when you introduce an antibiotic to your tank:
1) Reducing/destroying the biologic filter
2) Creating a resistant strain of bacteria
3) Toxic effect on inverts and livestock
Brand names of products that treat cyanobacteria and contain antibiotics:
1) Red Slime Away
2) Maracyn (not Maracyn 2)
3) E.M. Tablets
4) Chemi-Clean
Treatment includes:
1) Reducing the cyano load first by scooping or siphoning
2) Remove carbon/media from the tank's filtration system
3) Stop skimming for the initial 2 days, followed by a 25% water change
4) Treat for 5-7 days
5) Follow directions, generally 1 tablet (250mgs) per 10 gallons of water
The decision to use chemical methods is a personal one and may only be a temporary reprieve if water conditions are not improved. Some people may chose this path if inverts are being affected. It is not an excuse for clean water. Good luck and I hope this helped. SH
What is Cyano?
Cyanobacteria are one of the oldest living microscopic organisms on earth. This organism has been in existence for more than 3.5 billion years. In fact, some articles describe it as a fossil. It is reputed to be the source of most organic material on earth and also the main source of oxygen. Cyanobacteria have many names including blue-green, red, purple, black and green slime algaes although they are not true algae. The color arises from a pigment in the cell which assists chlorophyll in photosynthesis. In fact, theories state that cyanobacteria may have been the source of choloroplasts, the structues that contain chlorophyll, in present plant cells. In nature, cyanobacteria can be found in water that is contaminated or is high in nitrates or phosphates.
Cyano Facts
1) Cyano is a large bacterium that is aerobic but can live under anaerobic conditions
2) It can tolerate extremes of temperature and salinity
3) Develops a protective mucous layer which gives rise to its 'slimy' nature.
4) can trap gas bubbles
5) can develop a modified cell called an akinete which stores carbohydrates under adverse conditions to aid in survival
6) can appear in multiple colors as listed above.
7) has an EXTREMELY FAST growth rate and can double every 20 minutes
How Do I Know I Have It?
The first sign that you may have cyano is seeing very fine bubbles adherent to your live rock or substrate followed by the development of a slimy layer which is frequently red, but may have any of the colors listed above. This layer is lighter than water (if not adherent to sand) and will float if lifted off the rock. It can spread rapidly and then can develop a filamentous-type appearance. Picture of cyanobacteria on substrate (on the right side):
Why Did I Get it In My Tank?
This type of bacteria thrives in water that is high in nitrates and phosphates. Unfortunately, it is usually a sign of excess nutrients in the water. But don't take that too personally as a sign of poor water husbandry. Frequently, it can start when there is an undiscovered death of an animal or organism that is in your tank. However, it is more commonly related to excess nutrients. Many claim that 'low flow' is a cause, however, there is no proven evidence that this is the case. So, possible causes include:
--overfeeding
--undiscovered death of a tank inhabitant
--excess phosphates (using water or topoff that is high in phosphates)
--poor water maintenance, ie, poor nutrient export
So, What Do I Do Now?
Eradicating cyanobacteria, once established, is a frustrating experience that requires patience and attention to tank maintenance. Here are some of the most common recommendations to aid you:
1) Change feeding habits, many recommend every other day feeding, to reduce nitrates
2) Although no strong evidence to support this, consider increasing water flow or redirecting flow to dead areas
3) Skim
4) Find the source of contamination and remove it
5) Increase the frequency of water changes
6) Siphon off the cyanobacteria to help reduce the load. You can use airline tubing attached to hard plastic tubing. You can also vacuum the substrate to remove detritus. Use a turkey baster to float if off the LR and then suction it up with a turkey baster. Be forewarned..it grows back quickly
7) Change to RO/DI water if you are not using it to reduce phosphates
8 ) Consider adding a phosphate binding media insert.
9) You can consider reducing lighting but this is often of little help
10) Add cyano-eating livestock. Some cyano eaters include Mexican Red Leg Hermit Crabs, Astrea snails and Trochus snails. Here is a photo of my astrea snail eating cyano:
There is no silver bullet. Using these techniques can take up to several weeks before the cyano regresses and patience cannot be overemphasized.
Desperate Times Require Desperate Measures
This is a controversial paragraph I am including but there is a growing number of people who are trying chemical methods to eradicate cyanobacteria with both excellent results and not so great. I don't put this here as a recommendation nor as a substitute for good water husbandry, but for completeness.
There are several water treatments available to treat cyanobacteria and many of these contain the antibiotic erythromycin. Erythromycin inhibits protein sythesis and is used generally against aerobic gram positive bacteria but does effect gram negatives as well (nitrosamonas and nitrobacter are gram negative). There are many risks entailed when you introduce an antibiotic to your tank:
1) Reducing/destroying the biologic filter
2) Creating a resistant strain of bacteria
3) Toxic effect on inverts and livestock
Brand names of products that treat cyanobacteria and contain antibiotics:
1) Red Slime Away
2) Maracyn (not Maracyn 2)
3) E.M. Tablets
4) Chemi-Clean
Treatment includes:
1) Reducing the cyano load first by scooping or siphoning
2) Remove carbon/media from the tank's filtration system
3) Stop skimming for the initial 2 days, followed by a 25% water change
4) Treat for 5-7 days
5) Follow directions, generally 1 tablet (250mgs) per 10 gallons of water
The decision to use chemical methods is a personal one and may only be a temporary reprieve if water conditions are not improved. Some people may chose this path if inverts are being affected. It is not an excuse for clean water. Good luck and I hope this helped. SH
