Brown Algea

DeadlyAlliance

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Hi guys i sometimes have a little algea on my tank. Its a 46 gallon tank and the algae looks brown against the glass. I was wondering what kind of fish would be good to clean this? I have 1 female black molly and a couple of molly babies. Is brown algea bad or good i normally only keep the lights on my tank for 9 hours and i have a lot of live plants. Any help is great. Thax.
 
everyone loves otos! i see them sugested in here all the time and every lfs i have been to has them.
 
Here's the info from the link in case you don't want to go to the link... though there's a lot of useful information on it pertaining to algae:

"Brown algae" (diatoms)
This is often the first algae to appear in a newly set-up tank, where conditions have yet to stabilise. It will often appear around the 2-12 week period, and may disappear as quickly as it arrived when the conditions stabilise after a couple of months. It is essential to minimise nutrient levels to ensure the algae disappears - avoid overfeeding and carry out the appropriate water changes, gravel and filter cleaning, etc. Limiting the light will not deter this algae, as it can grow at low lighting levels and will normally out-compete green algae under these conditions.

If brown algae appears in an established tank, check nitrate and phosphate levels. Increased water changes or more thorough substrate cleaning may be necessary. Using a phosphate-adsorbing resin will also remove silicates, which are important to the growth of this algae. However, as noted above, it is essentially impossible to totally eliminate algae with this strategy alone. Due to its ability to grow at low light levels, this algae may also appear in dimly lit tanks, where old fluorescent bulbs have lost much of their output. If a problem does occur, otocinclus catfish are known to clear this algae quickly, although you may need several for larger tanks, and they can be difficult to acclimatise initially.

There are some very plausible theories as to why this algae often appears in newly set up tanks and then later disappears. If the silicate (Si) to phosphate (P) ratio is high, then diatoms are likely to have a growth advantage over true algae types and Cyanobacteria. Some of the silicate may come from the tapwater, but it will also be leached from the glass of new aquaria, and potentially from silica sand/gravel substrates to some extent. Later, when this leaching has slowed, and phosphate is accumulating in the maturing tank, the Si:p ratio will change in favour of phosphate, which is likely to favour the growth of green algae instead.
 
Thank You so much guys for your replies and for that article. Thank You. I will go to the store and buy some otocinclus catfish. Thax again.
 
tekknocolor said:
Here's the info from the link in cause you don't want to go to the link... though there's a lot of useful information on it pertaining to algae:

"Brown algae" (diatoms)
This is often the first algae to appear in a newly set-up tank, where conditions have yet to stabilize. It will often appear around the 2-12 week period, and may disappear as quickly as it arrived when the conditions stabilize after a couple of months. It is essential to minimize nutrient levels to ensure the algae disappears - avoid overfeeding and carry out the appropriate water changes, gravel and filter cleaning, etc. Limiting the light will not deter this algae, as it can grow at low lighting levels and will normally out-compete green algae under these conditions.

If brown algae appears in an established tank, check nitrate and phosphate levels. Increased water changes or more thorough substrate cleaning may be necessary. Using a phosphate-adsorbing resin will also remove silicates, which are important to the growth of this algae. However, as noted above, it is essentially impossible to totally eliminate algae with this strategy alone. Due to its ability to grow at low light levels, this algae may also appear in dimly lit tanks, where old fluorescent bulbs have lost much of their output. If a problem does occur, otocinclus catfish are known to clear this algae quickly, although you may need several for larger tanks, and they can be difficult to acclimatise initially.

There are some very plausible theories as to why this algae often appears in newly set up tanks and then later disappears. If the silicate (Si) to phosphate (P) ratio is high, then diatoms are likely to have a growth advantage over true algae types and Cyanobacteria. Some of the silicate may come from the tapwater, but it will also be leached from the glass of new aquaria, and potentially from silica sand/gravel substrates to some extent. Later, when this leaching has slowed, and phosphate is accumulating in the maturing tank, the Si:p ratio will change in favour of phosphate, which is likely to favor the growth of green algae instead.
A save , and a beauty .

Good stuff , good job tekknocolor.

Brown algae is sometimes called diatoms [ Ive heard called other things , but diatoms what I believe is correct ], can be a sign of over feeding as well / water changes work best to stabilize the tank .

I have substrate burrowing Malayan trumpet snails in my tank , they eat some of it , they'd eat all of it if there was absolutely nothing else to eat .

My otos also eat it .

You know if algae will grow plants can as well , do you have any ?

If the plants are able to out compete the algae for nutrients there could be less algae :hey: . You may have to stick to low light tolerant plant species , depends on your lighting , sorry for running off at the fingers .
 
Agreed, my ramshorn snail eats the algea and also I couldn't agree with lucky62 more with the plants and overfeeding.
 

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