Brown Algae, & Maintaining Fish

judith

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we have just bought a jewel 190 litres fish tank and are new to tropical fish. we have had our tank running for about 2 months or so. we are having problems with brown algae & maintaining fish i have been reading the forums about how to reduce the algae i.e weekly water changes & reducing the nutrients and keeping away from direct sunlight. can anyone tell me if there is more that i should be doing to stabilise the tank as i keep losing fish and not sure why, i would be very grateul . :rolleyes:
 
hi Mikaila31, i don't know at the minute am going to get a water testing kit, u need to test the water every time u do a water change don't u. what should be the appropriate stats for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? be for your tank. i have just been taking advice from friends and relatives who have tropical fish but have learned that they don't seem to know the right things either. so thats why i have joined this forum to get help and learn myself. I have my tank in the living room and we have an open coal fire the tank is opposite in the corner but i think it is getting to much heat from the room was thinking of moving it to corner away out of the way as i am finding it hard to control my temperatures my heater is set at 26 but temperature of tank keeps going up to 29 at times i have checked the heater and it is fine so it must be the heat from my fire that is causing it to rise. is this a factor with the alage and losing fish? would moving my tank help? as well as a water testing kit could u tell me if there is anything else that i need and should be using. I would be very grateful for any advice at all thanks for taking the time for replying. :blush:
 
Ammonia and Nitrite levels should be 0. I try and keep my nitrate levels below 10ppm as higher levels can promote algae growth.

I would certainly move the tank away from the fire. Temperature fluxuations like that can be very stressfull for your fish.

Do you have a planted tank and what is your photoperiod? I would increase your water changes to try and bring the nirtrate level down to help with the brown algae, also reducing your photoperiod may help. In the meantime it should just clean stright off.

I should be able to help you futher when you get some water stats :)
 
Some people will blame your algae on nitrates, and others will blame phosphates. From what I have read on the Barr Report and from my own personal experience, this is not correct. Algae will feed on nitrates and phosphates, plus all the other nutrients that plants do, but these nutrients do not trigger the algae.

Keeping nitrates below 10ppm is an interesting figure. Any idea where you got it from? I can grow algae in RO water just using sun light as a trigger for growth. Some people have tap water at 40ppm and minimal algae.

Brown algae are diatoms that have a silica shell, and pop up in my tanks when they are first set up. Fortunately, it is just about the easiest to get rid of. You can do this either through a bit of elbow grease over a period of time or, my preferred method, using Otos.

Dave.
 
I believe i got the figure from a online article, but can't remember where from.

I've always thought that by keeping your nitrate and phosphte levels low, in a non planted tank for instance will not stop algae forming, but will stop a huge out break if the correct lighting levels are maintained?
 
Putting a light over some water is the single greatest algae trigger, Chri$, with the word trigger being the key. This is why some people are growing their plants on just damp substarte to allow them to become established, before adding water at a later date. The water side of the trigger has been removed. Other triggers are persistent ammonia levels, even levels undetectable by our test kits, and poor CO2.

Keeping phosphates and nitrates low in a tank with zero plants will still not control the algae. Most people have sufficient nutrients in their tap water to feed huge algae blooms, yet they don`t have algae problems. This could be down to the fact that fish only tanks don`t generally have the high lighting levels of a lot of planted tanks.

Trying to control algae through depriving it of nutrients is virtually impossible due to the imperceptible levels of nutrients it can thrive on (RO water).

Ammonia and phosphates will feed algae, but they will not trigger it. Ammonia and too much light in fish only tanks could well be the major causes, but I tend to look at things from the planted tank point of view where CO2 is generally the big variable to trigger algae.

Exactly how or why algae uses or detects these triggers is an unknown, but poor plant health, accompanied by the ammonia they start leaching, is a major trigger also. I have read people on this forum saying brown algae only thrives in low light conditions, but I have seen it appear in all three of my high light tanks. In my experience, the diatoms are the first to appear in my new tanks.

Dave.
 
hi Chri$, i keep my light between 8/10 hours or sometimes less leave it off when im out, i don't have a big lot of plants just a few. i will certainly be moving my tank as i thought i would need to anyway.

what would you suggest as an appropriate water change level 25%?? am very grateful for your help and advice. also when i purchased the tank i got a Resun air pump with it which i havent used yet, would it help to use air stones in my tank. thanks for your help and advice judith.

hi Dave, i am still trying to stabilise my tank as i have only had it a few months i have been doing a bit of reading and have learned that there is a lot i don't know about maintaining my tank. am very interested in learning about it and am very grateful for any advice given. what bottom workers would you recomend to help me and should i be going for any particular size my tank is a jewel 190lt. thanks :good:
 
I usually change aound 30% a week, this will vary though depending upon your water stats and stocking etc i.e if your ammonia levels are high then you may need to do a partial water change more frequently untill you bring it down.

IMO air stones are of very little use in a tank apart from decoration. So if you like it then why not, certainly won't do any harm :)

I would take a look down in the planted tanks section where you can find a lot of very helpfull advice regarding plants, lighting, algae etc.


Also if you are looking for some brown algae eaters i would highly reccomend oto's - [URL="http://www.fishforums.net/content/Catfish/35094/Oto/"]http://www.fishforums.net/content/Catfish/35094/Oto/[/URL]
 
thanks for the info Chri$,i will definitely check out the links that you gave me.

Could you explain to me what they mean by gravel cleaners i have read some posts and they talk about gravel cleaners is this just taking the gravel out of tank or is this like a pump/hoover type gadget or do they mean bottom workers cheers for all your help and imput.
 
Examples of gravel cleaners: [URL="http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/catalogue/gravel-cleaners.asp"]http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/catalogue...el-cleaners.asp[/URL]

Examples of gravel vacuum cleaners: [URL="http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/catalogue/vacuum-cleaners.asp"]http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/catalogue...um-cleaners.asp[/URL]

Both are used to romve dirt from among the gravel. A normal gravel cleaner is basically a siphon that sucks the dirt out of the gravel along with water into a bucket, so an ideal time to use one is when doing water changes.

A vacuum works by sucking up the water and dirt and filtering out the dirt particles and then allowing the clean water to flow back into the tank.
 
thanks Chri$, had a look at the links you sent me they were of great help have made a list of the things i need to get i know a bit more know than what i did when i started your help and advice has been very much appreciated.

am gonna get some hardy fish for tank now that i have moved it and use your tips and hopefully get my tank stabilised before i decide what other fish to put in it. :good:
 

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