Well, just to share what I have learned recently, I'll post this topic. I had BGA, that I referred to as jelly, encasing my java moss. In my research, and in feedback here, I read that a blackout and large water changes were the answer. Well, there is a much better answer. BGA is actually a bacteria, which I discovered in my research. Erythromycin, at half dosage, made the algae dissappear overnight. I would strongly recommend this treatment any time you find such algae slimes in your tanks.
Bga Gone In A Day
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RadaR
The things we do for our fish..
It would indeed.
Plus you aren't treating the cause of the algae (low flow, low nitrates, too much organic waste leaching ammonia) and so the plants won't grow like they should be. It will come back.
I'm not saying the anti-bacterial method is wrong, however treating the cause, balancing the un-balanced is better IMO.
anti-biotics like Erythromycin should be used sparingly and carefully. They were designed for treating people and mis-use of these medicines can lead to drug resistant bacteria. Using them to treat blue green algae in an aquarium is not really a good thing to be doing.
^^^^^^^
Well, not everyone agrees with you on the subject, at least from what I'va read, but I do know that the treatment should not be done more than once. Furthmore, it should not be done at more than half dosage. But, since your much more knowledgeable than me, I have a question. Some of the articals I read suggested that BGA problems may be due to lower levels of nitrogen. I dose ferts that are largely nitrate and phosphate free. But, my fish stocking is down from what it used to be (got rid of two large, waste producing fish). Should I buy Flourish Nitrogen or a comparable product, or is this not the correct info I have been getting???
RadaR
The things we do for our fish..
Rather go with Tropica's Plan Nutrition +.
It's an all in one fertilizer that contains micro and macro nutrients. Dose at 1ml per 20ml each day.
Also, circulation needs to be good, no dead spots. Mulm in the filters and anything decaying should be removed because these organic materials are leaching ammonia, which isn't helping.
It's an all in one fertilizer that contains micro and macro nutrients. Dose at 1ml per 20ml each day.
Also, circulation needs to be good, no dead spots. Mulm in the filters and anything decaying should be removed because these organic materials are leaching ammonia, which isn't helping.
Plus you aren't treating the cause of the algae (low flow, low nitrates, too much organic waste leaching ammonia) and so the plants won't grow like they should be. It will come back. ^^^^^
I think it may be a low nitrate issue, as my tank was formerly stocked at maximum capacity, with some larger fish in there. I had been dosing with ferts that are Nitrate and Phosphate free, because, ironically, I was afraid of an algae outbreak. So, I don't think it is the product of too much waste, and the area that developed the BGA has alot of water movement. I perform 30 percent water changes religiously, each week. But, yes, I have tended to combat my algae problems chemically, as it saves me time and money (in the short term!).
I think it may be a low nitrate issue, as my tank was formerly stocked at maximum capacity, with some larger fish in there. I had been dosing with ferts that are Nitrate and Phosphate free, because, ironically, I was afraid of an algae outbreak. So, I don't think it is the product of too much waste, and the area that developed the BGA has alot of water movement. I perform 30 percent water changes religiously, each week. But, yes, I have tended to combat my algae problems chemically, as it saves me time and money (in the short term!).
SuperColey1
Planted Section
It saves no time or money to use chemicals. It saves money not to buy them and saves time not to do anything. I would suggest a little research, a little patience, and try to isolate the root cause.
I think when you read 'research' and articles you have to weight them up for their merit. A lot of people sing the praises of 'algae removers' but is that what you want to achieve? Do you want to remove algae/bacteria or do you want to sort out the cause and from then on never need to worry or at the very least know what is happening. If your car starts only when you give it a bang with a hammer, do you just keep hitting it with a hammer or sort the problem out?
There are loads of 'algae removers' on the market but how many are used by people on planted forums? a miniscule amount. You will also find that there huge amounts of algae ridden tanks on planted forums but these people are wanting to learn how to get rid and avoid the algae rather than a quick fix.
Low nitrates in your case is most likely the cause. Probably not from the lower fish load. I would guess if you were relying on the fish you were low to start with unless you are under seriously low light!!
AC
I think when you read 'research' and articles you have to weight them up for their merit. A lot of people sing the praises of 'algae removers' but is that what you want to achieve? Do you want to remove algae/bacteria or do you want to sort out the cause and from then on never need to worry or at the very least know what is happening. If your car starts only when you give it a bang with a hammer, do you just keep hitting it with a hammer or sort the problem out?
There are loads of 'algae removers' on the market but how many are used by people on planted forums? a miniscule amount. You will also find that there huge amounts of algae ridden tanks on planted forums but these people are wanting to learn how to get rid and avoid the algae rather than a quick fix.
Low nitrates in your case is most likely the cause. Probably not from the lower fish load. I would guess if you were relying on the fish you were low to start with unless you are under seriously low light!!
AC
In my experience, blue green algae (BGA) it is brought about by excess nutrients, too much dry food, bad lighting, low oxygen levels, poor water movement, and a build up of gunk in the tank. I have had it in tanks with high & low levels of nitrate & phosphate. The most common causes are lots of rotting matter in the tank, poor water movement, and old lights. As lights age their temperature gets lower and they start to produce more yellow & red light. Depending on what the globes are to start with, the globes can end up producing really bad light that limits plant growth while encouraging algal growth.
Tanks with lots of water movement don't have as many problems with it. The water movement helps to prevent the BGA from being able to stick to the rocks, glass, etc. It also washes the gunk around the tank and allows the filters to pick it all up.
Turning the lights off and blacking the tank out for a few days will often help kill it. Replacing the light globes on a regular basis (yearly) and using the correct globes will help prevent it and help limit its growth. You want globes with a temperature or Kelvin (K) rating between 6,000K & 10,000K. Globes with a lower Kelvin rating (ie: 3,500K) often encourage the stuff to grow.
Doing daily water changes and gravel cleaning will help to remove the BGA from the tank. It will also help remove any rotting organic matter and uneaten fish food in the tank. Quite often BGA occurs after the removal of a big fish, particularly a catfish. Plecos and other large catfish move around the bottom and disturb the BGA. The fish also eat all the food that sinks to the bottom and reduce the things that can rot and encourage the problem.
Shrimp can be useful in picking up excess food. Dry foods, particularly bottom feeding pellets will often cause BGA to grow. If the pellets aren’t eaten they rot into the substrate and provide a perfect food for the stuff. Feeding less often, using frozen & live foods, and removing uneaten food will go a long way in preventing or helping to eradicate BGA.
LOL that's a funny statement.
I used a bigger hammer and ended up buying another car
Quite often BGA occurs after the removal of a big fish, particularly a catfish. Plecos and other large catfish move around the bottom and disturb the BGA. The fish also eat all the food that sinks to the bottom and reduce the things that can rot and encourage the problem.^^^^^^^^^^^
Very interesting Colin, and dead on I see. I noticed the algae about a week after removing two decent sized clown loaches and turning them into my LFS for credit. I think I'll buy a powerhead to improve circulation and invest in some bottom movement specialists to replace the loaches (i.e. smaller species that aren't as tough on plants and perhaps eat algae better). Well, I think my problem is explained, though some steps seem to be needed. The clowns provided constant movement along the tank bottom, stirring up things at night, including my plants. Plus, the tank was just too small for them now. Looking to get a pair of SAEs, some Rams, and perhaps shrimp. There is an 'Arizona' online plant company that markets Algae busting teams (i.e. packages of nerites, shrimps, and algae eating fish). I can find anything other than Golden Algae Eaters locally, and I have one already...he's useless except to look at. SAE's are said to be much better...
Very interesting Colin, and dead on I see. I noticed the algae about a week after removing two decent sized clown loaches and turning them into my LFS for credit. I think I'll buy a powerhead to improve circulation and invest in some bottom movement specialists to replace the loaches (i.e. smaller species that aren't as tough on plants and perhaps eat algae better). Well, I think my problem is explained, though some steps seem to be needed. The clowns provided constant movement along the tank bottom, stirring up things at night, including my plants. Plus, the tank was just too small for them now. Looking to get a pair of SAEs, some Rams, and perhaps shrimp. There is an 'Arizona' online plant company that markets Algae busting teams (i.e. packages of nerites, shrimps, and algae eating fish). I can find anything other than Golden Algae Eaters locally, and I have one already...he's useless except to look at. SAE's are said to be much better...
aaronnorth
www.ukaps.org
That isnt correct, i used to run a 'flora glo' which was 2700k and never had a problem with any algae of any sort.
RadaR
The things we do for our fish..
Depends what you mean by nutrients. If you mean ammonia then you are correct. If you mean nitrates, phosphates and trace elements, then that's simply not true and proven by countless plant enthusiasts including myself.
SuperColey1
Planted Section
BGA is a bacteria. It does not feed on any nutrient!!! Dosing to excess will not cause BGA.
Having bottom feeders and then removing them may explain why you are suddenly seeing the BGA but not solve why you are getting it!! However it does tell you that dirty substrate is the most likely cause. Therefore its either feeding too much, too little circulation or too little cleaning.
It is another myth that the lighting gradually reducing will cause algae. It happens so slowly that the plants will adapt with it and grow more and more slowly. As long as your dosing and CO2 were fine with the new light then when the light gets older there will be a little excess nutrient compared to before BUT the plants will still be growing healthily and thus no algae.
The thing that can cause algae with lights diminishing is if you let them go too far and then suddenly put a brand new one in that the light dramatically increases in one go and the plants can't adapt to such a sudden addition. If this is the scenario then best to shorten the the photoperiod to 5/6 hours and add an hour weekly until you are back to 8-10 hours.
K range is important only to the human eye!!! Do not believe the stories of 'this is the best K etc' between 4 and 10 is the best for HUMANS EYES and not plants. Plant will use ANY light as will algae so the scaremongers tales of 'that K will cause Algae' are untrue. However a planted tank in 14000K (marine lights) or under a 2700K (beauty light) will look crap IMO but someone else may love it!!!
My main light is 4500K and so is most definately not in the 6-10K range. Most lights that are 'supposedly' plant lights are in the 4-5K range or lower!!!! These lights look orange to pink in hue.
AC
Having bottom feeders and then removing them may explain why you are suddenly seeing the BGA but not solve why you are getting it!! However it does tell you that dirty substrate is the most likely cause. Therefore its either feeding too much, too little circulation or too little cleaning.
It is another myth that the lighting gradually reducing will cause algae. It happens so slowly that the plants will adapt with it and grow more and more slowly. As long as your dosing and CO2 were fine with the new light then when the light gets older there will be a little excess nutrient compared to before BUT the plants will still be growing healthily and thus no algae.
The thing that can cause algae with lights diminishing is if you let them go too far and then suddenly put a brand new one in that the light dramatically increases in one go and the plants can't adapt to such a sudden addition. If this is the scenario then best to shorten the the photoperiod to 5/6 hours and add an hour weekly until you are back to 8-10 hours.
K range is important only to the human eye!!! Do not believe the stories of 'this is the best K etc' between 4 and 10 is the best for HUMANS EYES and not plants. Plant will use ANY light as will algae so the scaremongers tales of 'that K will cause Algae' are untrue. However a planted tank in 14000K (marine lights) or under a 2700K (beauty light) will look crap IMO but someone else may love it!!!
My main light is 4500K and so is most definately not in the 6-10K range. Most lights that are 'supposedly' plant lights are in the 4-5K range or lower!!!! These lights look orange to pink in hue.
AC
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