Betta Breeding Tank

[TribeOfShroom]

Seeing as my Betta is now large enough and seems to be in top condition. I've decided that maybe he should have a partner.

So here are my plans:

Tank size: 18" x 18" x 18"
Substrate: sand
Plants : lots of grass and frogbit

Filtration and heater as usual (but make sure there not a lot of surface current)

Lighting: I'm not to sure about this. I do have a couple of old 18W glow lux bulbs which produce quite a gentle light (nothing as intense as the 2 aqua-glos I have on my main tank)

Oh and fresh food eg. bloodworm, daphnia etc


Now as for a female... well obviously I'll still pick one going by my little score system, but is there anything else I should be looking for when picking a female betta??

and seeing as I don't want to disturb the bubblenest, how would I go about doing water changes??

 

[ibbledibble]

I have not personally bred bettas myself yet, but have read up on it quite a bit so here's my take on it.

Seeing as my Betta is now large enough and seems to be in top condition. I've decided that maybe he should have a partner.

Spawning bettas is a lot of hard work and can be quite expensive, its not like breeding guppies. You need to be sure you want to do this, not just because he's big enough you'll give it a go.

So here are my plans:
Tank size: 18" x 18" x 18"

Sounds like a good size, but don't fill it very high. about 7" maximum i think, possibly less.

Substrate: sand

Betta spawning tanks should have a bare bottom, as substrate can make it difficult for the dad to find eggs that have dropped.

Plants : lots of grass and frogbit

Sounds ok, but i would put something bushy in for the female to hide in when spawning is over. maybe a few clumps of cabomba?

Filtration and heater as usual (but make sure there not a lot of surface current)

There should be no filtration in the tank until the fry are free swimming and then its best to have a bubble-up sponge filter. Yes a heater is very necessary

Lighting: I'm not to sure about this. I do have a couple of old 18W glow lux bulbs which produce quite a gentle light (nothing as intense as the 2 aqua-glos I have on my main tank)

Sounds fine

Oh and fresh food eg. bloodworm, daphnia etc

Sounds fine, but you will also need live food for the fry, microworms, vinegar eels, infusoria etc (Some people use liquifry with success or atisons betta starter)

and seeing as I don't want to disturb the bubblenest, how would I go about doing water changes??

I would imagine siphoning it off from the furthest corner from the bubblenest would be the best way.

Other points to consider:

Where do you plan to keep the female?

Does the breeding tank have a lid? The fry need warm moist air above the water level. The easiest way to achieve this is with a tight fitting lid

 

[TribeOfShroom]

Well I've been thinking about it for a while now and I am aware of how expensive it might be. But I think I'm ready to try and take it on and as for my Betta I think he's ready.

Now as for bare bottom tank and no filtration... wouldn't the toxin levels rise and get to dangerous levels??

As for our lucky female. She'll be kept in a 'chimmey' so the male can't get at her and I'm currently building a lid to go on top. It already has glass sliding doors on top, but I need something to house the lights (or light if they prefer a small amount of light).

Oh and before I forget. A bubble-up sponge filter?? I've seen them used in a tank when one of my mates dad was breeding discus. But where do I get them from and is there any special equipment needed for them?? (silly question I know, but I want don't want to miss anything out)

 

[ibbledibble]

Well I've been thinking about it for a while now and I am aware of how expensive it might be. But I think I'm ready to try and take it on and as for my Betta I think he's ready.

fair enough. Not trying to put you off at all just want to make sure you were going in with your eyes open. Hope it all goes smoothly

Now as for bare bottom tank and no filtration... wouldn't the toxin levels rise and get to dangerous levels??

The bare tank bottom shouldn't really make much difference to toxin levels, and as for lack of filtration, thats why frequent water changes are important

As for our lucky female. She'll be kept in a 'chimmey' so the male can't get at her

But where will she live? not just how will you introduce her to the male, what will you keep her in the rest of the time?

and I'm currently building a lid to go on top. It already has glass sliding doors on top, but I need something to house the lights (or light if they prefer a small amount of light).

well that sounds fine

Oh and before I forget. A bubble-up sponge filter?? I've seen them used in a tank when one of my mates dad was breeding discus. But where do I get them from and is there any special equipment needed for them?? (silly question I know, but I want don't want to miss anything out)

for a sponge filter, all you need is the filter itself, an air pump and some airline tubing. you can buy sponge filters from various LFS and online for instance here. or you could try making your own. theres a post here about it.

 

[devon_charm]

ibbledibble is pretty spot on though i would have the water at about 5" deep at most this makes it easier all round for dad and babies when they hatch. I never water change until the babies are free swimming. If you disturbe the male before then he may abandon the babies or eat them. I know some peope do water change before then but if they do its always very small amounts and with a turky baster.

The amonia isn't bad during this tame as the male won't eat and its best not to feed him any way so there is no waste. I would give them both a good meal then gice the tank a good clea taking out all the waste with a small syphon or baster then release her. From that point on add no more food until you remove him when the fry are free swimming.

I don't tend to add a filter to my tank at all until they are 2months old as you have to do daily water changes any way (with or without filter). I then add a normal small filter to the tank. However sponge filters can be used from the start and they are easy to make. All you need is a length of hose wide enough for a air stone to slide into with space for bubbles and watrer to get round. Tie on a sponge at one end put the air stone on the air line and slid inside the hose and attach it to an air pump. I can go into more detail if you are interested but i feel i have waffled on enough lol

Hope it helps you out a lil bit

 

[TribeOfShroom]

Ahhh righty. I thought you meant where in the breeding tank am I going to keep her. Oops! I've got 2 of these 18" x 18" x 18" tanks so she'll be kept in the other tank while I prepare the breeding tank.

And can I use the bubble-up filter anyway before there are any fry? Surely a few bubbles popping up in a corner aren't going to disturb or put them off breeding will it??

 

[devon_charm]

*double post* no idea why that happened lol

It would be best to have it off during the spawning. You can turn it back on once dad is out and the fry are free swimming

 

[TribeOfShroom]

Ahh so I can use one from the start just got to keep it off when they're getting jiggy. Btw I have a veil-tail male.. is there any particular tail types I can or can't breed with him?

 

[ibbledibble]

Ahh so I can use one from the start just got to keep it off when they're getting jiggy. Btw I have a veil-tail male.. is there any particular tail types I can or can't breed with him?

It would be best to have it off during the spawning. You can turn it back on once dad is out and the fry are free swimming

So you can have it on before the spawning and after the fry are free swimming but not in between. i presume this is to stop the dad getting spooked and eating the eggs and/or fry?

Devon charm knows much more about it than me as she has actually spawned her bettas, whereas i'm just talking theories.

So this info is really useful to me too since i plan to attempt a spawn after christmas. Just received starter cultures of vinegar eels, microworms, whiteworms and waterworms (which i've never heard of, but are apparently a lot like microworms) so getting myself prepared

 

[MermaidMel]

*double post* no idea why that happened lol

It would be best to have it off during the spawning. You can turn it back on once dad is out and the fry are free swimming

Yes Shell, that's usually how it works hun

 

[dmarie04]

Everything sounds about right. I agree 5" water level height is max for spawning tank. As far as a filter goes, I always use one while spawning. I use a sponge filter and an air control valve. I turn it down so there is only 2 or 3 bubbles per second and it has never disturbed the nest or the spawning. It's really a personal choice. Filterless is fine, too.
When it comes to picking which tail type to breed with your VT...well it really depends on what you're trying to end up with, really. VT is a pretty dominant gene so you'll mostly get all VT's anyway, but if you use a CT girl you might get some combtails.
Good luck with the spawn!

 

[devon_charm]

Ahh so I can use one from the start just got to keep it off when they're getting jiggy. Btw I have a veil-tail male.. is there any particular tail types I can or can't breed with him?

You can do yes. As dmarie said you can use one all the way through if you can adjust the flow so it is very minimal. As for types i would stick with a nice VT female. With VT your best selling point would be colour so try and get some thing a bit unusual with nice even finnage. I must admit i have been against breeding more VT's but as has been pointed out to me it is a good place to start. Just please find a nice pet shop or home to sell them onto, not one that keeps them in silly little tanks or in with tetras. Sorry but i love these fish lol

It would be best to have it off during the spawning. You can turn it back on once dad is out and the fry are free swimming.

So you can have it on before the spawning and after the fry are free swimming but not in between. i presume this is to stop the dad getting spooked and eating the eggs and/or fry?

Devon charm knows much more about it than me as she has actually spawned her bettas, whereas i'm just talking theories.

So this info is really useful to me too since i plan to attempt a spawn after christmas. Just received starter cultures of vinegar eels, microworms, whiteworms and waterworms (which i've never heard of, but are apparently a lot like microworms) so getting myself prepared

I turn it off because i find it works for one of my more reluctant males plus it was what i was told when i first started and i guess it just stuck. It is all about personal preference and what you find works best for you and you fish.

Hun you theories are pretty spont on, i can tell you have been doing your homework on it lol and it sounds to me like you have all you need to start and you can never be too prepared. so keep us posted with your progress and remember, we always want pics

Shroom do you have all you live cultures? it would pay for you to get them established before you introduce your female as you will end up with hungry fry and no food. Microworms take about 5 days to establish to a point they can be harvested but Gindal worms can take a couple of weeks. Luckily BBS only takes 24 to 48 hours.

Once you have eggs add a drop of Liquifry to some water from the tank mix it in the add it back to the tank, this needs to be done 3 times a day until you start on MW's. You can start feeding MWs at day 3-4 and keep these up until they get to about 1.5 months. BBS can be started at 2 weeks and fed right through to 2.5 months. Grindal worms can take over from the MW's at 1.5 months. At 2 months you want to start to try to get them onto powdered food or pellets. and ween them from live food. At 2.5 months i go totally onto pellets and every now and then give them a mix of defrosted frozen food like daphnia and blood worm. This is just how i do it other do it a little different but i though i would share this info with you as when i first spawned i did not know this and lost my fry at a week old. You may want to also have a read up on hatching and harvesting BBS.

Sorry i will shut up now

[quote post='1844316' date='Dec 11 2007, 11:43 PM']

*double post* no idea why that happened lol

It would be best to have it off during the spawning. You can turn it back on once dad is out and the fry are free swimming

Yes Shell, that's usually how it works hun


[/quote]

Mel trust you

 

[TribeOfShroom]

[/quote] Shroom do you have all you live cultures? it would pay for you to get them established before you introduce your female as you will end up with hungry fry and no food. Microworms take about 5 days to establish to a point they can be harvested but Gindal worms can take a couple of weeks. Luckily BBS only takes 24 to 48 hours.

Once you have eggs add a drop of Liquifry to some water from the tank mix it in the add it back to the tank, this needs to be done 3 times a day until you start on MW's. You can start feeding MWs at day 3-4 and keep these up until they get to about 1.5 months. BBS can be started at 2 weeks and fed right through to 2.5 months. Grindal worms can take over from the MW's at 1.5 months. At 2 months you want to start to try to get them onto powdered food or pellets. and ween them from live food. At 2.5 months i go totally onto pellets and every now and then give them a mix of defrosted frozen food like daphnia and blood worm. This is just how i do it other do it a little different but i though i would share this info with you as when i first spawned i did not know this and lost my fry at a week old. You may want to also have a read up on hatching and harvesting BBS. [/quote]


Hmm I haven't actually got around to getting live cultures of any of those. I have a pretty stable bloodworm culture.. but I'm guessing they'd be a bit too big for the fry. So liquifry then microworms... would my lfs have micro worm eggs or whatever you need to start them off??


Btw thankyou for all the advice, this has been quite educational and yes I'll will post pics to keep everyone updated.

 

[devon_charm]

You need to buy a starter culture of MW's. Where abouts are you from coz i could help you with that if you are based in the UK. Also if your UK bases there is a very good site for cultures which is www.willyswhiteworm.com i think if not just type willys white worm into google. Liquifry you will be able to get from the lfs.

Please just ask us if there is any thing else you need help on

 

[TribeOfShroom]

You need to buy a starter culture of MW's. Where abouts are you from coz i could help you with that if you are based in the UK. Also if your UK bases there is a very good site for cultures which is www.willyswhiteworm.com i think if not just type willys white worm into google. Liquifry you will be able to get from the lfs.

Please just ask us if there is any thing else you need help on

Hehe this probably isn't going to help. But yes I'm in the Uk.. in fact I'm in Wiltshire. So if you can think of any good retailers around here that would have the correct gear for MW cultures I would be very appreciative to know which one to go to.