Here's a portion of a great article from
here.
Feeding The Fry
I should first point out that you do not need to start feeding your fry until the yolk sac has disappeared, even if they are already free-swimming. The yolk sac contains all the food they need. Even still, you can begin feeding them right away so as to maximize their growth.
Some people start by feeding their fry the same flake food they feed the parents, crushed between their fingers. I do this, but have found that the younger fry don't always get excited about this as a first food. So, I feed them freshly hatched brine shrimp (bbs). This always primes their appetite. The smallest of fry always get excited about this. Freshly-hatched brine shrimp is an excellent food to use for the first couple of weeks to a month. There are other foods that are just as nutritious and readily accepted, which you'll find in my article Food For Fry. After 2 to 4 weeks, however, your fry will be ready to graduate to flake food.
"So how often should I feed my fry?" At least twice a day. They can go for several days (once proven by a necessary trip out of town), but thin considerably as a consequence. I feed my fry 3-4 times a day, but each time, I give them only what they can consume in 30 seconds. Fry get satiated much more quickly than do adult cichlids, plus they seem to have an increased gastrointestinal motility, such that instestinal blockages are less common. In fact, in my experience, "Bloat" has been altogether non-existent. But as we all know, it is a frequent problem among adults if precautions are not taken.
Frequent feeding will of course promote rapid growth. Also important for grow-out is maintaining good water quality. Small cichlids are not as hardy as larger ones. Make it a point to pamper them. Some people do 50% water changes on a daily basis. That seems excessive in my judgment. What is important, whatever your regimen, is to perform regular water changes, keeping a close eye on your nitrates.
Returning The Fry
“When can I join the fry with the adults?” That is a tough question to answer. With most species you could probably put the fry with the adults once they begin to exhibit their color. Small fry strategically don’t have color (except in a few cases) so as to avoid detection by predators. About the time they put on their color, they are beginning to gain more confidence and show signs of aggression and assertiveness. Now this is just a general rule that won’t work with all species, such as the more aggressive species. And then with the peacocks, you would have to wait almost a year if you followed this guideline. In this picture to the right, you can see a young Labidochromis caeruleus just beginning to show its full color, with the black dorsal stripe becoming apparent. This fish, in my opinion, is ready to join adults of the same species. Now, if I had a tank with predators such as Dimidiochromis compressiceps or Scianochromis fryerei, this fry would be dispatched rather speedily. So, you just need to use your best judgment. What I have shared is what I have learned through trial and error (mostly error). If in doubt, go the conservative route.
For example mbuna is a group of african cichlids from Lake Malawi, so post in african/old world cichlids.
