Aqua One 1500R Light Unit

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R7UST

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Hi All.
I Have An Aqua One 1500R. With T5 Lighting.  I Think The Unit Is The Same As The Juwel. My Problem Is That The Unit Will Light Up For 45 Mins Then Switch Off. I Have Tried Diffrent T5 Tubes With The Same Result 45 Mins. Then Off It Goes Again. Why 45 Mins I Do Not Know.
I Have Read The Post By Dorsey & Posted A Thanks There. But Just Before I Go Ahead & Cut Into The Unit Can Any One Say For Sure It Is The Ballast. or Have Another Suggestion.
Thanks Rust.
 
 
 

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Hello,

Yes, it could be the ballast failing.. another possibility is water ingress into the top.
Both of these can manifest in temperature dependent problems. i.e. the ballast monitoring electronics (assuming an electronic ballast) are detecting excessive tube current caused by either insulation breakdown/circuit short (aided by condensation/water vapour) or the ballast tube supply limiting is out of specification (failing electronics).

Before you do anything, unplug the lights... Don't just switch off!

I would open the top and examine the wiring for the presence of moisture. If it is wet inside, then dry it thoroughly (a carefully angled hairdryer works fine [on cold!]).

When you are happy that the inside of the top is **totally** dry, try the lights... If the problem has disappeared then you have cured the problem. You now need to investigate how the inside of the top got wet.. Look around the clip-in tube sockets for any small gaps etc. These can be sealed with a small amount of (aquarium safe) silicon sealant (Ebay or your local glaziers for this).

If the fault remains then you either have a failing ballast, dodgy wiring or possibly a problem with one or more of the tube sockets (unlikely). One thing to check is tube sockets themselves.
Remove the tubes and examine the tube sockets for any signs of arcing. Look for any scorch marks or other deposits which might be conductive.. You might be lucky and these may polish off..

If you could provide a picture or two of the ballast (showing the case markings and wiring etc.) then I'll see what I can find out for you..

Any further questions, just ask here..

Bodge99.
 
Hi.
Thanks For Your Post. I Will Have A Look At The Above Mentioned. Could Next Week Before I Get Inside The Sealed Unit. But If & When I Do I Shall Post A Few Images Of The Ballast & Wiring. Thanks Again. Rust.
 
Hi bodge99
Sorry It's Taken Me So Long To Post Images Of The Ballast.
Hope You Can Still Help Me With A Replacement & Wiring.
What I Have Are As Follows
2 x Black, 2 x Grey, 2 x Blue & 2 x Yellow. The Other End I Know Is The Power Supply.  Black Being Neutral & Grey Being Live I Think.
Have Been Looking At Ballasts Online & Thought This One May Do The Job. Tridonic T5 Pro High Frequency Ballast 2 x 54w
https://www.bltdirect.com/product.php?pid=6210&cat=0
Here Are 2 Images Of The Ballast In The Light Unit. If You Need Me To Post Another I Can Do.
Thanks For The Help.
Rust.
 




 

 
 
Hello,
 
Don't worry about any delays... everybody's busy!!
 
Yes, this ballast will be fine with 2 x 54W T5 tubes. this one is a wire for wire drop in replacement (assuming that the physical size of the ballast will fit inside the top!). I'll confirm exactly what's what if required.. could you supply a clearer picture of the circuit schematic (printed on the old ballast). I can't make out the lettering.. Also, which wires connected to which terminals?
 
Are you certain that your current tubes are OK??
 
Did you find any moisture inside the top?
 
Anyway, I found these on ebay (the first 3 cheapest ones I found):
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-54-Watt-Electronic-Ballast-for-2-x-54w-T5-Lamp-HELVAR-EL2x54s-Control-Gear-/261174510766?pt=UK_BOI_Lights_Lighting_ET&hash=item3ccf36c4ae  £9.95 free p+p. 8 tube connections. New & guaranteed but pulled from a damaged new working light.
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PHILIPS-2-x-54W-HO-T5-HIGH-FREQUENCY-ELECTRONIC-BALLAST-LIGHTING-424-/251226263784?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item3a7e4090e8 £13.45 + £3.45 p+p New. 7 tube connections.
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIDONIC-PCA-2-x-54w-HO-T5-DIMMABLE-BALLAST-DSI-ECO-SWITCH-DIM-SMART-NON-DIMMING-/221185208673?pt=UK_BOI_Lights_Lighting_ET&hash=item337faa7161 £14.95 + £3.45 p+p This one appears to have 8 tube terminals and is dimmable!! The dimming action is normally by a simple push switch. This would be very easy to add to your setup.. If you want specific details then just ask.
 
You can use any electronic ballast that is specified for 2 x 54W T5 tubes. The differing number of connections just means that you would just connect two or more wires together.. I'll talk you through this if need me to.
 
All very easy to do... just as long as the replacement ballast will actually fit inside the top.
 
Any further questions... then just ask here.
 
Bodge99
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Hi Bodge99.
Thanks For Your Reply.
As For The Wires. 
Tube 1.     At One End There Are 2 x Black & Other End 2 x Blue
Tube 2.     At One End There Are  2 x Grey & Other End 2 x Yellow
It's Not The Best Of Images. The Ballast Connections Are Epoxied Over.
Hope This Helps You. So You Can Help Me.
 


 

 
 
Hello,
 
Great!! That's all the info I need for now.. I can now give specific information on how to connect up once you have your new ballast.
 
When you get it, you'll find a schematic printed either on the body of the ballast or I'll dig the info out if you could supply the ballast manufacturer and part number.
 
I don't need any further info regarding the old ballast... You have supplied enough..
 
Your existing wiring is colour coded (nice touch!).. As you have indicated, each coloured pair goes to a tube end (one wire per tube pin [actually a heater/filament connection]). As long a you keep the black + blue pairs together (a well as the grey + yellow pairs) for each tube then you'll have no problems...
 
As I said earlier, you can use any electronic ballast rated for your tubes.. I'll tell you exactly what to connect where when the time comes.
 
Look forward to hearing from you..
 
Bodge99.
 
Hi Bodge99.
Thank You Very Much For All Your Help.
I Will Probably Go For The.  Tridonic T5 Pro High Frequency Ballast 2 x 54w. https://www.bltdirec...?pid=6210&cat=0
That One Has The 8 Terminal Connection. So Hopefully It Will Be Straight Forward.
I Will Post An Image of The Ballast & The picture of the circuit schematic.
Thanks A Lot.
Rust.
 

 

 

 

 
 
Hi.
I Have Went For One Of The Ballast That You Post Links To.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-54-Watt-Electronic-Ballast-for-2-x-54w-T5-Lamp-HELVAR-EL2x54s-Control-Gear-/261174510766?pt=UK_BOI_Lights_Lighting_ET&hash=item3ccf36c4ae   £9:95 & Free Del.
This Will Fit In The Cut Out I Have Made In The Light Unit. Should Be Delivered By The End Of The Week. It Was Cost That Made Me Go For This One As The Other Was Going To Cost Almost 3 Times The Price Of This One.
Also Meant To Add That The Tubes Are Working & Not At Fault & I Could Not Detect Any Moisture Inside Of The Light Unit.
Thanks Again
Rust.
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Hi. Bodge
I Have My Replacement Ballast. Helvar - EL2 x54s. Could You Please Assist Me With The Wiring. The Link Below Shows The Wiring Diagrams.
http://www.helvar.nl/File/VSA/gebruiks%20instructies.pdf#page=9&zoom=page-width,0,474.                                                                                                                      
There Is An Option (8Wires) Don't Know If I Can Use That Option. On Page No. 9.
I Would Be Very Grateful Of Your Assistance.
Rust.
 
Hello,
 
Glad to see that you now have your new ballast..
 
You **should** be able to use the 8 wire connection option... I can't see any ballast issue number/release version number in the ebay photos so I cannot determine the exact batch version.
If you are in any doubt whatsoever, then play safe and use the 7 wire connections as indicated on the schematic printed on the ballast casing. 
 
You will need to connect two of the wires together. You may be able to connect the relevant two wires together in the ballast connector (are these screw terminals?). If not, then use a connector block and a small length of solid core wire. An alternative is to solder the wires to a 3rd short length and use heat shrink tubing to insulate them. Please **DON'T** just twist the wires together and use a bit of insulating tape!!
 
First of all, mount the ballast into the top (assuming that you will have room to make the connections with the ballast fixed).
 
Now for the actual connections:
 
Tube 1: Black and blue pairs.
Connect the black pair to 1 and 2 (either way round, it dosen't matter).
Connect one of the blue wires to 4. Leave the other blue wire for now.
 
Tube 2: Grey and yellow pairs.
Connect the grey pair to 5 and 6 (either way round).
Connect one of the yellow wires to 8.
 
You now have the connections as follows:
1 - Black
2 - Black
3 - Not used.
4 - Blue.
5 - Grey.
6 - Grey.
7 - Used in the next step.
8 - Yellow.
 
Check the wires are in their correct locations before you proceed.. It's easy to go wrong! [how do I know this?? ;>)  ]
You also have a blue and a yellow wire not yet connected.
 
Connect these two wires together, extend and connect / connect both wires in 7.
 
Now check that the wires are secure... **gently** tug on them in turn to ensure that the connections are sound.
 
Connect up the mains lead and confirm that these connections are secure.
 
Now refit the tubes and lay the unit on the floor where any heat won't damage anything.
 
Plug in and switch on.. If all is well the tubes will light... Don't forget any inline switch! [again, how do I know this!! ;>)  ]
 
Now leave the lights on for 30 mins to an hour.. Don't leave them unattended.. Be safe!!
After this time, switch off and unplug. Check the ballast housing for excessive temperature. Assume that it is red hot and check accordingly. It's better to assume that something is red hot when it isn't than find something is actually hot and burns you when you think it is cool. You will probably find it slightly warm.
 
Assuming everything is O.K. then seal up the unit and refit to the tank.. Job done... well done!!
 
Any problems/questions then just post here.
 
N.B. You can reverse the tube pairs if it is easier for you.. i.e. swap the black and blue pairs and/or swap the grey and yellow pairs around... just as long as the black and blue pairs go to EITHER 1,2,4 and 7 OR 5,6,7 and 8. if you see what I mean..
 
Bodge99
 
HI.
Thanks For All The Information. Will Give It A Go Tomorrow. They Are Push In Connectors.
Will Post After I Have Got it Running.
Many Thanks.
Rust.
 
Hi Bodge99.
Just To Say A Massive Thanks For All Your Time & Help. We Have Light. d:)
I Took Your Advice & Connected The Way You Said. It Worked.
Then I Thought Why Not Try It With The. Option (8Wires) It Also Works.
I Have Had The Unit Running For Over 2 Hours & All Seems Fine.
Have Uploaded An Image Of The Light Unit Working.
Many Thanks Again.
Rust. d:)
 


 
 
Hello,
 
I'm really pleased that everything now works!! Well done!
 
Just happy that I was able to help.
 
 
Regards,
 
Bodge99
 

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