Api Root Tabs

stanleo

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Does anyone use these? I was at the LFS and saw them and thought they might help my dwarf baby tears, they are thinning out and browning. I do CO2 injections for 4 hours a day and I have been does macro ferts once a week. Will they help? The reason I ask is I am wandering how safe they really are.
 
I have used API root tabs when i first started, used them for crypts, did ok, not huge difference.
 
Switched to Seachem Root Tabs, big difference in days, growths spurts and better looking leaves.
 
Seachem has micro and traces in the root tabs whereas API do not, thats made all the difference.
 
I personally don't think substrate tabs will do anything in your situation.  Carpet plants like you mention are best fertilized with liquid fertilizers in the water column.  You also should be adding micro nutrients, and this is likely what is missing.  I'll come back to this after commenting on the tabs in general.
 
I too recommend Seachem's Flourish Tabs.  I have been using these for a few years now.  While I have never tried the API, I have heard from several others that they can make a real mess in the substrate/water if they happen to be disturbed.  I guess they disintegrate in a very different way.  I have dug down around the Flourish Tabs more than once and never had issues.
 
There used to be a product made by Nutrafin that were spikes, called Plant-Gro Sticks I believe; these worked very well for me, and only needed replacement once a year.  They no longer seem to make them, as I cannot find them online anywhere.  So I switched to the Flourish Tabs and am satisfied.
 
Back to the nutrients.  Aquatic plants require 17 nutrients in order to photosynthesize, plus of course adequate light intensity.  Plants will photosynthesize fullout provided all this is available, but as soon as something is missing, photosynthesis slows and may even stop altogether.  This is what we term Liebig's law of minimum, that growth/photosynthesis will be limited by the least available factor.  If your light is sufficient (and for these carpet plants it usually has to be more intense than otherwise), macro nutrients (which includes carbon or CO2) are sufficient to balance the light, then a lack of some or all of the micronutrients (which you appear not to be adding) may be the limiting factor.  Or if they are present from other sources (fish food, organics) the carbon may not be adequate.  I can't really offer suggestions on carbon as I do not use it, but it needs to be available during the photoperiod which I would assume is more than four hours.
 
Byron.
 
I am cheap about some things and substrate ferts are one. I did a trade about 12+ years ago with a gent in Florida. I sent him  a bag of long fin bn and he sent back several packets of Jobes Fern and Palm spikes. The use of these in the sub was my first disagreement with Tom Barr over a decade ago on another site. His main dislike, and a shortcoming I acknowledged, was the fact that disturbing them was a recipe for disaster. But since I am not and avid rescaper and also used them veer selectively in terms of where I put them, they have worked well for me.
 
At that time I think a pack of the spikes cost several dollars and considering shipping costs, he got the better deal $ wise. I am still using that original supply today. You can snip the spikes to varying lengths depending on need.
 
 

Introduction to Fertilizers for a Planted Tank

 

by Chuck Gadd
 
The last common substrate fertilizer is a "plant spike". These are actually sold for normal household plants, but certain varieties of them are especially useful for aquatic plants. These are sold in the gardening section of many stores. The most commonly used ones are "Jobe's Plant Food Spikes for Lush Ferns and Palms". This variety has a very low phosphate level, which is important, since an excess of phosphate will quickly lead to algae problems. The Fern and Palm sticks also contain very little urea, a toxic form of nitrogen. Other varieties of the plant spikes contain much more urea, to the point where enough might enter the water and could harm fish. These are solid "spikes" that get pushed into the substrate where their nutrients are available to plant roots, but not to algae in the water. These plant spikes provide macro-nutrients only. When using these, they should be used sparingly, only at the base of heavy root feeding plants. Do not insert these over the entire substrate.
from http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/fertilizers_intro.php
 
Today the internet has come a long way. I can now get these spike online. Because they are for plants more typically found in warmer climates, they were/are not common up north where I live. They were readily available in Florida back then.
 
One nice thing about these spikes and the ability to cut them into any size piece is that you can fertilize larger plants from different places by using several small pieces rather than a single large one. You can easily put smaller amounts of fetrtilizer in several different places for one plant with a large root mass like a big sword.
 
SeaChems root tabs do have a great rep. I just think they are overpriced is all. My 12 years of gravel ferts in multiple tanks has cost me a few dollars a year and I think i will have some left after I no longer have tanks.
 
In case you are curious about what happens if you disturb your substrate and get the Jobe's spikes into the water column, you have likely not even come close to knowing the meaning of a "bad algae outbreak" no matter what you may have have experienced so far.
 
Thanks for the info guys, it helped. 
 
Now all that being said I have a question. The reason I do 4 hours of co2 injection is that the light comes on at noon so I turn on the co2 in the morning around 11am, if I get up that early. I leave for work some time between 4 and 430 so I turn it off before I go to work. The light goes off at 7pm. I don't get home sometimes not until midnight. Would it be safe to keep the co2 running that long into the night? 
 
I will go and get the microferts today. IF Petco or Petsmart carries them. 

TwoTankAmin said:
I am cheap about some things and substrate ferts are one. I did a trade about 12+ years ago with a gent in Florida. I sent him  a bag of long fin bn and he sent back several packets of Jobes Fern and Palm spikes. The use of these in the sub was my first disagreement with Tom Barr over a decade ago on another site. His main dislike, and a shortcoming I acknowledged, was the fact that disturbing them was a recipe for disaster. But since I am not and avid rescaper and also used them veer selectively in terms of where I put them, they have worked well for me.
 
At that time I think a pack of the spikes cost several dollars and considering shipping costs, he got the better deal $ wise. I am still using that original supply today. You can snip the spikes to varying lengths depending on need.
 
 
Introduction to Fertilizers for a Planted Tank   by Chuck Gadd
 
The last common substrate fertilizer is a "plant spike". These are actually sold for normal household plants, but certain varieties of them are especially useful for aquatic plants. These are sold in the gardening section of many stores. The most commonly used ones are "Jobe's Plant Food Spikes for Lush Ferns and Palms". This variety has a very low phosphate level, which is important, since an excess of phosphate will quickly lead to algae problems. The Fern and Palm sticks also contain very little urea, a toxic form of nitrogen. Other varieties of the plant spikes contain much more urea, to the point where enough might enter the water and could harm fish. These are solid "spikes" that get pushed into the substrate where their nutrients are available to plant roots, but not to algae in the water. These plant spikes provide macro-nutrients only. When using these, they should be used sparingly, only at the base of heavy root feeding plants. Do not insert these over the entire substrate.
from http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/fertilizers_intro.php
 
Today the internet has come a long way. I can now get these spike online. Because they are for plants more typically found in warmer climates, they were/are not common up north where I live. They were readily available in Florida back then.
 
One nice thing about these spikes and the ability to cut them into any size piece is that you can fertilize larger plants from different places by using several small pieces rather than a single large one. You can easily put smaller amounts of fetrtilizer in several different places for one plant with a large root mass like a big sword.
 
SeaChems root tabs do have a great rep. I just think they are overpriced is all. My 12 years of gravel ferts in multiple tanks has cost me a few dollars a year and I think i will have some left after I no longer have tanks.
 
In case you are curious about what happens if you disturb your substrate and get the Jobe's spikes into the water column, you have likely not even come close to knowing the meaning of a "bad algae outbreak" no matter what you may have have experienced so far.
This really funny. I just got done reading that article right before you posted this. lol
 
On the lights, as I think you and I may have previously discussed in PM, a simple timer is the best option.  Consistency of day/night is important to fish and plants.  Even though being retired I am home all the time now, I still have all my tanks on timers.  And I have several examples of the fish, and I suspect the plants too, functioning on this cycle, expecting the lights to come on and go off.
 
On the micro nutrients, I would doubt that chain stores would carry these preparations, by which I mean the dry fertilizers that you are making yourself.  Might have to go online, but others who do this can advise you.
 
Byron.
 
Sorry, I may have been confusing on that. I have the lights on a timer. It comes on at noon and off at 7pm. Its the CO2 I can't put on a timer and I if I leave it on after I go to work it will be on until midnight. That's 12 hours total a day and 5 hours that it is running while the lights are off. Is it safe to run the CO2 that long when the plants aren't taking in CO2?
 
stanleo said:
Sorry, I may have been confusing on that. I have the lights on a timer. It comes on at noon and off at 7pm. Its the CO2 I can't put on a timer and I if I leave it on after I go to work it will be on until midnight. That's 12 hours total a day and 5 hours that it is running while the lights are off. Is it safe to run the CO2 that long when the plants aren't taking in CO2?
No, it is not safe.  In daylight, meaning when the tank lights are on, CO2 will get taken up by plants (assuming everything is in balance and the CO2 is not more than needed).  But as soon as the light is off photosynthesis cannot function and the plants then stop taking in CO2.  So the CO2 diffusing into the aquarium is adding to the natural CO2 from the respiration of fish, plants and bacteria, plus the CO2 from the breakdown of organics in the substrate...and all this can easily overwhelm the system and literally kill the fish.
 
But, the CO2 should be on consecutively with the tank lighting, as far as I am aware.  One of the high-tech planted tank members should have more advice on this.  I don't use CO2.
 
Byron.
 
Re micronutrients and DIY mixes- I have been using Tropica's mix for this. When I started in 2002 they called it Mastergrow, then they  rebranded it as Plant Nutrition Liquid and now they call it Premium fertilizer. It is not cheap.
 
But, a few years back on Tom Barr' site I ran across a recipe that was supposed to duplicate the Tropica mix pretty closes usinga mix of dry ingredients. It was so uch cheaper that it seemed like a super idea. So i bought the ingredients, had the ro/di already and I switched to the dry mix. It did not me very long to notice that my plants began looking worse than I had seen them in years. It did not take me long to hop online and buy more of the real thing.
 
What I now do to save some money and not to waste what I spent on the dry mix is I use a 50/50 mix of the two products. this has seemed to work fine.
 
I would be happy to link you to the article on the dry mix except the title of the thread, and the link itself, contains a word that would be removed by the censor here with good reason. However you can find it yourself if you Google "How to make DIY Tropica Plant Nutrition" a partial title. Just find the link that points to and April 3, 2010 thread on the Barr site - look for it to point to the site "www.barrreport.com › Forum › Barr Report › CO2 Enrichment"
 

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