Angelfish tank mates

[g930751]

Hi everyone

I have a 180l tank
Fluval 206
The tank is planted aswell with dry ferts and liquid carbon

i am currently cycling my tank
I just want to plan ahead And see what you think about : compatibility and how many


I would like
angelfish
Clown fish
Electric blue rams
Red phantom tetra or a nice schooling fish
Boesmani rainbow
Hong Kong butterfly pleco

Any advice would be appreciated thanks





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[Byron]

There are a few problem issues here.

Angelfish. This tank is not sufficient space for a group, so that means either a single angelfish or a bonded mated pair. The latter will severely limit tankmates. The single angelfish may work, but I do not recommend this because it is contrary to how the fish "expects" to live, since it is a shoaling species.

Clown fish...presumably not the marine fish, so is this perhaps Clown Loach? This is also a shoaling species, and loaches are highly social so a group of five minimum is needed. However, this means a tank of 8-feet in length. The average length for this fish is 1`2 inches, with aquarium fish usually somewhere in the 8 to 12 inch range; 16 inches has been documented. I won't get into the other issues of plants and upper fish as there is no space for these loaches.

Electric blue rams...this is a variety developed from the natural species Mikrogeophagus ramirezi. They need warmth, 80F (27 C) minimum. Many other "tropical" species will not manage well as such warm temperatures, so having this species can limit tankmates.

HK Butterfly pleco is actually not a pleco but a loach, often called Hillstream Loach. They need cool water, room temp is fine, and strong currents. The latter would decimate angelfish, rams, and many other fish, aside from temperature issues.

Boesmani Rainbow...another shoaling species, but it should have a 4-foot tank. It also needs water with a basic pH. Which brings me to the water parameters. Knowing the GH and pH of your source water will help us going forward with suitable species. And the tank dimensions just so we know.

You mention liquid carbon...some of these (Seachem's Flourish Excel and API's CO2 Booster) contain glutaraldehyde, a highly toxic disinfectant. Some plants will be killed with normal recommended dosage, but it has the risk of killing plants, bacteria and fish. Fish are detrimentally affected by it even if they live through it. Unless you intend a high-tech planted tank (mega light, diffused CO2, daily nutrients) there will be sufficient CO2 naturally occurring primarily from the breakdown of organics in the substrate.

 

[g930751]

I would like angelfish so 2 for me and yeah I meant loath

My ph is 7.6
Gh is 28.6

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[Byron]

I would like angelfish so 2 for me and yeah I meant loath

My ph is 7.6
Gh is 28.6

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Parameters are fine for soft water species, so no issues there. You haven't given the tank dimensions so still cannot say if suited to angelfish or not, but as you mention two I will explain further.

You will have to find a mated bonded pair if you want two. Two males will fight (assuming they are normal and healthy) until one is dead. Two females might get along, this is hit and miss. A male and female may subsist for a time, but if they do not accept each other they will not bond and one (usually the female) will be hounded to death.

A bonded pair will obviously spawn. And there will likely not be space for other tankmates when this occurs.

The reason is that this is a shoaling species that is mildly aggressive (naturally). They live in smallish groups (a dozen or more) and establish an hierarchy within the group. In their habitat, a hounded fish can obviously just swim away. But in the aquarium this is impossible. In a very large tank (such as at a public aquarium) things are natural. But in the home aquarium the confined space means the fish are constantly living in water containing the pheromones of fish in the species, and these are chemical signals the fish read to communicate. Stress can occur just from these, leading to weakened fish and a shorter lifespan. Even a bonded pair can overnight "un bond."

 

[g930751]

You have commented on one of my other posts about tank size and came to about 130- 40 so I guess I won't be getting angels

Something not relating to this do you dose plants? If so is there a guideline on when to dose I.e time wise thanks

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[Byron]

You have commented on one of my other posts about tank size and came to about 130- 40 so I guess I won't be getting angels

Something not relating to this do you dose plants? If so is there a guideline on when to dose I.e time wise thanks

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I use fertilizers because I have very soft water (zero GH) so it is needed. I do as little as possible, knowing that anything added to the water gets inside fish. The fertilizers also must balance the lighting; if light and available nutrients are not balanced for the plant species, the plants can slowly weaken and die and/or algae will take advantage.

I use substrate fertilizers (Seachem's Flourish Tabs) in tanks with larger plants like Amazon swords. The benefit of these is that the nutrients do not get into the water column so fish are happier and algae is thwarted. I have floating plants in all tanks so a liquid supplement is necessary. I've been using Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium for a decade now. I do minimally, judging the response (condition) of the plants.

As for time, near the beginning of the day--meaning, just after the tank lighting comes on as for the plants and fish this is "day"--so the nutrients will work with the light. Also, additives should never be used near the end of the "day" into night as this can make respiration for fish more difficult. Plants are not using CO2 in darkness which adds to the issue.

If you use a conditioner that detoxifies heavy metals (most do this), it is best to dose plant additives the day following the water change. Some of the nutrients (iron, copper, zinc, manganese) are heavy metals and there is no point adding them if the conditioner is going to negate them. After 24 hours or so this shouldn't be an issue.

 

[g930751]

Thank you I have an issue than I leave for work at 7 so my lighting is 12 till 8 so I enjoy the tank when I am home, i get in about 5

Any thoughts?

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[Byron]

Thank you I have an issue than I leave for work at 7 so my lighting is 12 till 8 so I enjoy the tank when I am home, i get in about 5

Any thoughts?

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Is this seven days every week? If you have days off, those should be your days to water change and fertilize. Water changes should also never occur late in the day, except in an emergency to save fish. They need time to settle down before darkness.

 

[g930751]

Monday to Friday and Saturday morning ?

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[Byron]

Monday to Friday and Saturday morning ?

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Sunday would seem to be your water change day. Adding the liquid fertilizer after may be the better option here. I used to do this until a discussion with Seachem scientists changed my habit, but I have no proof either way. But there is evidence that tank work of any sort done early in the fish's "day" is preferable.

 

[g930751]

Thank you for the advice

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