robert clements
Fish Crazy
where can i get ammonia from i live in brighton sussex and what is the best one to buy . please
Lots of good lfs sell graduated pipets. I buy 5ml ones for £1 for 5 at mine, yours might do something comparable. If not a pharmacy may well sell them.thanks boots it is then thanks for your help.
what do you use to measure the ammonia when you put in the tank
/www.midlandreefs.co.uk/xcart/Dr_Tim-s_Aquatics_Products_For_Freshwater_Aquaria/After years of doing fishless cycles using household ammonia which contains surfactants.......One should never exceed 5 ppm of ammonia as this will kill the very bacteria we are trying to get established.
).From httpYou want to have an initial ammonia-nitrogen concentration of 2 to 3 mg/L (ppm). Do not go above 5 mg/L. ....... You want to be careful adding more ammonia because you do not want the nitrite-nitrogen over 5 mg/L as this will start to poison the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria. Add a little ammonia every few days (1/4 dose) making sure the nitrite does not go above 5 mg/L.
/www.drtimsaquatics.com/fishless/fishless.htmlWell Prime, you and the person credited with discovering the specific strains of bacteria which end up colonizing tanks say two toally different things in this regard. Since the former earned his PhD for discovering this and I have no idea who you are in real life. I will accept what he says in preference to what you say.
These are his exact words:
From httpYou want to have an initial ammonia-nitrogen concentration of 2 to 3 mg/L (ppm). Do not go above 5 mg/L. ....... You want to be careful adding more ammonia because you do not want the nitrite-nitrogen over 5 mg/L as this will start to poison the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria. Add a little ammonia every few days (1/4 dose) making sure the nitrite does not go above 5 mg/L./www.drtimsaquatics.com/fishless/fishless.html
I assume poison means killing not inhibiting.
I found it. I figured the easiest solution was to contact Dr. Hovanec directly and ask him to clarify things. I will post both my email his reply in a new thread when I receive it. What is most interesting is he says 5 ppm can start to poison and then that 10 ppm will inhibit them in different places.
I also asked him to clarify the death of a bacteria vis-a-vis rupturing of the cell wall etc. He says that the bacteria in a bottle only remain usefull for about one year max. But he also states that these bacteria have survived on the planet for millions of years because they can shut down during periods of extended drought. So I asked if the can survive extended drought and continue the survival of the species, then why can't they do the came after a few years in a bottle.
He has replied to past emails so I am assuming I will get an answer but it may take time as I am sure he is a busy man.

This would mean his professional ethics as a researcher mean little to him. Your argument implies that anybody who has a financial interest in something will always sell out their other moral and ethical principles for a buck. I find as many contradictions in your postings if not more than you seem to find with Dr. Hovanecs work.Just remember, this guy, PhD or not, is a business man and has a vested interest in sometimes 'massaging' the information to fit his company's products. This is why you can find contradictory statements from him.
I have spent many hours surfing papers and articles on this topic. I have still not been able to find a single peer reviewed paper supplanting his research which state a different bacteria is at work in our tanks than the ones he identified. I can find countless papers which support much of what he says about EPS and how these work to keep all sorts of bacteria "alive". I would be most grateful therefore, if you would post a few links to those published papers refuting Dr. Hovanec's conclusions regarding the correct strains of tank bacteria. I simply can not find these papers you imply exist. It is easy to state folks don't agree, it is another providing evidence that Dr. Hovanec's work is not valid and that something else has been shown to supplant it.It may even surprise you to learn that not everyone agrees with Tim Hovanec's paper on nitrospira, but that's another subject
that particular quote about the longevity of bacteria and drying out relates to bacteria capable of sporulation and is unquestionably wrong in relation to nitrifying bacteria.
An then you wrote:One also reads a lot that since nitrifying bacteria don't form spores (which is true) they cannot shutdown and go into a resting phase which is false. Nitrifying bacteria have a different way of maintaining their viability when conditions are poor which relates to the fact that they prefer to be attached to surfaces where they can develop a coating or shield of exoploymer substances (EPS) that protects them.
Again you have tried to oversimplify and distort what he has said. He states that one way to "kill" a nitrifying bacteria would be to rupture or break down the cell wall. So how does chlorine kill bacteria? Here is the answer:Even the comment about how difficult it is to kill nitrifying bacteria is incorrect, as a moment's thought would tell you. Ever heard of chlorine and chloramine?
from httpChlorine kills bacteria though a fairly simple chemical reaction. The chlorine solution you pour into the water breaks down into many different chemicals, including hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and hypochlorite ion (OCl[sup]-[/sup]). Both kill microorganisms and bacteria by attacking the lipids in the cell walls and destroying the enzymes and structures inside the cell, rendering them oxidized and harmless.
/science.howst...question652.htm
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/386023-exchange-w-dr-tim-re-nutrifying-bacteria/