Ammonia 8+Ppm After 2 Consecutive Water Changes.

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Jen.Cavanaugh

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Tank size: 20 gallon
pH:8.4
ammonia:8+ppm
nitrite:0
nitrate:0
kH:
gH:
tank temp:76-78*

Fish Symptoms (include full description including lesion, color, location, fish behavior): 3 recently deceased pot belly mollies, 3 gold barbs with red gills and splotches/streaks, 1 remaining pot belly molly with clear/white poo, 3 regular mollies of which the male has been curling his tail fin and acting odd.

Volume and Frequency of water changes: one 25% change last evening, one close to 50% change just now. (no prior changes as this tank is barely 1 month old and I was instructed NOT to do ANY water changes by the pet store due to tank cycling.)

Chemical Additives or Media in your tank: bio-boost (once per week and with water changes), water conditioner as directed when set up tank and with both water changes. I also added ammo-carb to the filter housing last evening.

Tank inhabitants: 3 small gold barbs, 1 remaining pot belly molly, 3 regular mollies.

Recent additions to your tank (living or decoration): The 3 barbs were added a few days after setting up the tank, about 1 month ago. 3 of the pot belly mollies were added a week later, then the 3 regular mollies about a week after that. The last fish was a fourth, still surviving, pot belly molly which was added 8 days ago, the day prior to the first death.

Tank gravel was added at set up, a few decorations were added throughout the past 4 weeks, and 1 fake plant. There are no live plants in the tank.

Exposure to chemicals:

Digital photo (include if possible):

Hi! My name is Jennifer. I have a problem, and I'm hoping someone here will offer me good advise. I purchased a 20 gallon freshwater aquarium start-up kit for my daughter's birthday.
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3804446&lmdn=Brand

We thought everything was going well, but unfortunately, we were wrong.

The tank has been set up for right at 1 month. Her first 3 fish were little gold barbs. After about a week or so in the tank, she got 3 pot belly mollies, then 3 regular mollies a few days later. The final addition of the 10th fish, a fourth pot belly molly, was the evening before her first casualty, 1 week ago Sunday. From last Sunday to this Sunday (yesterday) she had lost all 3 original pot belly mollies.

We have had the tank water tested weekly at the pet store, (they use Tetra brand strips) and the ammonia has been very high the last couple of weeks, and is not coming down. (The nitrates/nitrites are o, ph is 6-8, I keep temp at 76/78 degrees.) The aquarium store told me this is normal, due to new tank syndrome, and that it should come down on it's own. I was told not to change water, clean gravel, change filter cartridge, etc, as this might hinder the cycling of the tank. The problem is, the ammonia is not coming down. Her gold barbs now had very red gills and red splotches/streaks from ammonia poisoning. Although they are still active, I'm concerned for them.. as well as the other fish.

So, I decided to do something! Even though they didn't recommend cleaning a "new tank", I can tell she has been over-feeding, by the debris in the gravel, and the subsequent high ammonia level. So last night I purchased a siphon style gravel vac and attempted to get some of the junk out of the gravel. I stopped when a 5 gallon bucket was full, as this is 25% of the tank capacity. The ammonia level was still testing at 8+ppm, so I just did a 50% (or close to) water change, re-tested, and it's still showing the darkest shade of green/8+ppm!(I did check temp of new water and add water conditioner before adding fresh water to tank.) I also added bio-boost, as I have been doing weekly.

The gentleman at the store yesterday was a bit more helpful than others, and suggested a product called "ammo-carb". He recommended adding it to the filter housing inside a tied of section of panty hose. This product is suppose to remove ammonia...he said he uses it for his aquarium at home. So, I purchased it, but the recommended amount fer her 20 gallon aquarium will not fit in the housing. Even half that amount creates a bit of back flow of water, and although the amount of water being filtered and put back in the tank appears normal, I am concerned the water may not be moving freely through the filter. I'm wondering if there is a better alternative, or another way of using this one..(such as putting the section of panty hose filled with the ammo-carb somewhere in the tank, rather than in the filter housing..)

I have been told varying opinions on water changes at this point in the process. Some say no, some say yes, but only 25% once a month, some once a week, some daily until ammonia problem is solved.., etc.. My concern is the fact that the nitrogen cycle is at best, in mid process, and I don't want to "re-start" it. BUT, I need immediate relief for these poor fish!

I wish I could go buy 20 gallons of established tank water and a filter ready with colonies of good bacteria!! But since I can't- I've got to get this water stabilized, and quick. Any information/advice is much appreciated. These fish are my 9 year old daughter's, and she is such a compassionate soul, it has been really sad to see her mourn over her lost fish.

Jen
 
please do a couple of nice big 90% water changes right now and then come back and read up on fish - in cycling and the nitrogen cycle as you have fallen prey to the supermaket fish advice people who think they know everything but they actually know next to nothing

:)
 
Don't get any more new fish until you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and readings of nitrate. With weekly water changes you want to aim to keep your nitrate levels somewhere between 5 and 15.

The high ammonia in your tank is poisoning your fish, and while your tank is still trying to establish the bacteria that converts the ammonia you will have to keep the ammonia level below .25 for your fish to survive the cycling process. This is done by daily or even twice daily water tests, and lots and lots of water changes.
 
please do a couple of nice big 90% water changes right now and then come back and read up on fish - in cycling and the nitrogen cycle as you have fallen prey to the supermaket fish advice people who think they know everything but they actually know next to nothing

:)


Correct... in an emergency like this you need to do massive water changes, not partial water changes.

8+ ammonia needs drastic steps immediately to help your fish.

Doing some quick math here... let's assume that the ammonia is 10ppm, just to keep the numbers simple. A 90% water change wouldn't actually be enough to bring the levels down to safe (under 0.25ppm). A 90% water change will bring the level down to 1ppm, which is still dangerous. So, you need to remove as much water as absolutely possible, so that the fish can just barely swim upright. Hopefully around 95+%. Then, refill with temp matched dechlorinated water. I'd fill it up to about 50% full, then I'd drain the tank AGAIN until the fish can just barely swim upright (basically equivalent to back to back 90% changes. Doing this will bring your level back down to about 0.10ppm, which is within the safe zone (although, it still is far from ideal).


Cut your feeding down (don't feed the fish at all for at least 3 days! :crazy: I know, but the fish will actually be just fine.) More food = more waste = more ammonia. After this initial fast, feed every other day, and only feed what the fish can eat in 30 seconds.

Keep a close eye on the levels of ammonia and nitrite. Be prepared to do a water change anytime the levels are even approaching 0.25ppm. And don't be afraid to do HUGE water changes. The fish will be far better with a properly done removal and refill of water than with a "measly" 50% water change. After the tank has fully cycled 50% water changes are actually quite large, but for right now, they just aren't nearly enough, as evidenced by your ridiculously high ammonia.


You can get through this, but there will be long term consequences for your fish, unfortunately. Now you just have to do the best that you can with where you are right now. Just keep up with the testing and water changes, and don't get discouraged. This happens to a lot of folks. Now you know what to do. :good:
 
Should I continue agitating and cleaning the gravel during the 90-95% water change(s)? I did during the prior two changes due to debris, but have read that beneficial bacteria live in the gravel... So I'm a little hesisltant to disturb it continuously, since I obviously need all the good bacteria I can get...
 
Right now, leave the substrate alone, just get the ammonia out of the water column. Let whatever debris might be there at the bottom stay, as it might just allow it to stay dormant. (How much debris is there?)

Refill as gently as possible to allow the debris to stay put.
 
The debris isn't bad now, since i vacuumed it the first two times. Tonight we took the water down to about 2 inches, refilled to half, took it down again but even lower, and refilled. The water is clear, and the fish were initially active. After turning the light off, I checked on them and they're pretty lethargic. But, maybe because its their "night time"...? I fed them a tiny little bit, since thad not been fed in over

(oops) ... 2 days. All but one seemed to perk up. That one remained at the bottom of the tank, although she did swim around and eat as a few pellets sunk to the bottom.

The ammonia level was .5-1. ppm after the drastic water change. I will recheck first thing in the morning.
 
Plan on doing at least 75% water changes daily until the ammonia & nitrite are at zero. Obtaining some mature media to help the cycle along would be a benefit, if you know someone who has had a tank running for a while ask to borrow some. If you don't know anybody local you may want to check out this link; http://www.columbusfishclub.org/index.php

What product are you using to treat the replacement water and how much are you using?
 
Should I continue agitating and cleaning the gravel during the 90-95% water change(s)? I did during the prior two changes due to debris, but have read that beneficial bacteria live in the gravel... So I'm a little hesisltant to disturb it continuously, since I obviously need all the good bacteria I can get...

As Blubble said, you've fallen prey to an idiot shop assistant it seems. Unfortunately fish keeping isnt as simple as "thrown some fish in the water and they'll live. There is no beneficial bacteria in your gravel unless you are using an under gravel filter, and even then, its negligible.

Click the beginners resource centre links (One in my signature below, and in many other peoples) and read up on the "Fish IN Cycle" and the general Nitrogen Cycle (one and the same).

Ben
 
Plan on doing at least 75% water changes daily until the ammonia & nitrite are at zero. Obtaining some mature media to help the cycle along would be a benefit, if you know someone who has had a tank running for a while ask to borrow some. If you don't know anybody local you may want to check out this link; http://www.columbusfishclub.org/index.php

My neighbor has an established tank (goldfish, I believe..) I'm sure she would help me out. What exactly do you mean by "media"? Can you explain?

What product are you using to treat the replacement water and how much are you using?

When I change water, I add "Complete Water Conditioner" (Jack's Aquarium & Pets store brand). It removes chlorine, promotes healing with Vit E, etc, detoxifies heavy metals, replenishes slime coating, promotes growth of beneficial bacteria and so on. (although it's hard to measure exactly, I attempt to add1 cap/5 ml per 10 gallons, but I'm afraid I actually used more than that during the process of water changes last night.)

I also add bio-boost. (4 capfuls/20 ml per 20 gallons)

Other than that, I recently added a carbon/resin mixture to the filter housing. (outside filter, not a biowheel though)It doesn't fit very well (inside a pantyhose section) although I feel water circulation is adequate, it may be somewhat hindered. I would like to know if I can utilize the mixture by means of another method, such as simply hanging it over the side of the tank near where the water flows out from the filter...??

Thank you for the link! :)

The fish seem well this morning.
 
Yes, the fish will always perk up after getting a water change after swimming in bad water. :good: So that is a good sign. The ammonia still being over 0.5ppm last night means that it is probably over 1ppm now.


I'd recommend another 90%+ water change at your soonest possible convenience. Ultimately, your goal is to keep the levels as far below 0.25ppm as possible. Bigger water changes keep the level lower and help give you more time between changes (not much time early on though - sorry). :/


As far as using too much dechlorinator, don't worry too much about that. As long as you don't exceed a double dose you should be fine. Going over a double dose can cause trouble in some cases with the bacteria that deal with the nitrite. Of course, you don't have nitrite issues yet, but you will as the cycle continues on. Keep at it and don't get discouraged. It will seem like it takes forever, then one day it will be over. The more you stay on top of it, the less work it actually is. :good:
 
+1

And then go back to that LFS that gave you the ridiculous advice and read them the riot act. Don't change the water at all? Sheesh.
shout.gif
 
+1

And then go back to that LFS that gave you the ridiculous advice and read them the riot act. Don't change the water at all? Sheesh.
shout.gif


Well, I have heard these things stated before for folks who use bottled bacteria. Its nuts, but it is what they say. (It's actually in the Bottled Bacteria thread in Tropical Discussion, right now.) Its kind of crazy, when you think about it. (On one hand, they say the water change will remove the "product", yet at the same time it's known that high levels of ammonia are detrimental to the bacteria... not to even mention the damage to the fish.)
 
Haven't we figured out that the good bacteria is stored in the filter media? That's why we can do enormous water changes without harming it. Another reason why I don't think bottled bacteria really works except under the narrowest of absolutely ideal conditions.
 
Haven't we figured out that the good bacteria is stored in the filter media? That's why we can do enormous water changes without harming it. Another reason why I don't think bottled bacteria really works except under the narrowest of absolutely ideal conditions.


Yes we have. But, when you pour "bacteria" into the tank, they claim it takes a while for it to cling to the media and so doing water changes would remove it. (Just mentioning what the products claim, not what I believe to be true.) ;)
 

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