Ammo-lock Question

dzsigmond217

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My 7 gallon tank had an ammonia reading of .50ppm. I used Ammo-Lock as directed and the bottle stated that it detoxifies 3ppm of ammonia. My question is...if I do another Ammonia test will it still come up as .50ppm but the ammonia will actually be detoxified?? I get all confused.. :S
 
Hi
I believe that ammo lock neutralises the ammonia, but you will still get an ammonia reading on the tests.
 
That is correct. The test kits measure total ammonia...ammonium (which is the non-toxic form) + ammonia so the the reading will not change.
 
Ok..that good to know. Now my question is this..just to make certain:

Is it ok to use the Ammo-Lock instead of doing massive water changes while my tank re-cycles?
I also have a 29 gallon tank in which I must have killed my bacteria and it is cycling again.
The ammonia readings have varied from 1ppm-3pm and I have been doing massive water changes twice a day.
Can I use the Ammo-Lock instead..atleast once a day?..to decrease the amount of water changes I do?
Thanks again! Dianne
 
Hi Dianne,

Although Ammo-Lock does de-toxify the ammonia into ammonium, i wouldn't recommend that it is a substitute for water changes.

Although ammonium is less toxic to fish than deadly ammonia, it is still toxic, and as such should be removed. Ammo-Lock is a good addition to water changes to help the fish stay less stressed between water changes, but certainly not an alternative.

The trouble is, if you use it instead of water changes, you will struggle to track which ammonia is detoxified and which isn't as the fish produce ammonia all the time.

My advice, water change, water change, water change, with a bit of Ammo-Lock thrown in in-between to help the fish along.

Hope this helps you.

Cheers :good:

BTT
 
Keeping the levels of ammonia low via water changes will also help the tank cycle faster as it will mean less bacteria is needed to handle the ammonia and subsequent nitrite. When ammonia is broken down by the bacteria, 1 ppm of ammonia becomes 2.7 ppm of nitrite so the lower you keep the ammonia, the faster the tank will eventually cycle. Really, all you are looking for is enough bacteria to handle the ammonia on a minute to minute basis so to speak. Fish don't just suddenly put 1 ppm of ammonia in the water as we do during a fishless cycle. The ammonia is added gradually as waste breaks down and as ammonia leaves the fish's body through it's gills so much less bacteria is needed at anyone time than what would be needed to quickly break down a high level of ammonia.
 

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