Alge Killer Needed

Katchan

Fish Addict
Joined
Dec 26, 2004
Messages
784
Reaction score
0
Location
Chilly Hobart, Tasmania
Hey all after a good alge controller for a 2'*1'*1' tank, I did have a mystery snail in it but my blue rams didnt agree with him :byebye: , any suggestions?

Andrew

PS it currently stocked with 2 Apistos, 6 neons, 2 panda cory's, and a small BN.
 
The 2 best algae controllers are:
1. fast growing stem plants
2. humans that cut back on overfeeding

Way better than any fish... seriously.

Besides, the BN should be taking care of standard algaes. What kind of algae do you have?
 
A Bristlenose in a tank that size will do more harm than good long term. Plecs are waste producing machines and will just damage the water quality in a small tank, leading to increased algae growth.

Get a good scraper
Do frequent water changes
Don't over feed
Don't over stock

No tank is 100% algae free (except maybe the most perfectly balanced planted tank using EI), just do everything you can to prevent it and remove the rest.
 
I dont know what its called, but it's formed a thick green mat or carpet accross the sand substrate and its starting to climb up the plants.

also this is only happeneing on the sand substrate side of the tank, I have a perspex divider that goes about 2" above the surface of the substrate, sand 2/3 and back gravel (3-5mm) on the other 1/3

Andrew
 
:crazy: Sounds like BGA.

See this extract from gf225's Pinned article on Algae

Cyanobacteria (BGA)

Strictly speaking this is not a species of algae but a form of bacteria. It does, however, act in a similar fashion to algae and can be prevented using similar principles.

I am no expert on BGA (or algae for that matter) but I can share my experiences with it in the hope that it may help you.

Also known as Slime Algae, due to its physical nature, it covers the substrate and plants with a blue/green slime like substance. Untreated this will spread very quickly smothering everything, substrate, plants and décor. It out competes the plants for nitrogen and prevents photosynthesis due to it blocking the plants from the light. It is also toxic to fish and nothing will eat it. In short it is nasty stuff – it even has an unpleasant smell. This is one method of confirming it is BGA.

I understand it originates in the substrate, this is certainly true in the couple of cases I have had. I am unsure as to what the true cause of its manifestation but I think stagnant water helps it and the anaerobic bacteria associated with it. Low nitrates and natural light are often associated with its spread too.

Prevention

As with “normal” algae, prevention is better than cure. These steps should help.

1. Set-up your tank according to the above principles – in particular keep nitrates above 10ppm.

2. Avoid as much natural light as possible.

3. Try to keep the substrate from going too anaerobic. Some anaerobic areas are necessary and are found in nature. Poke the substrate occasionally, particularly if you have sand. Substrate heating can also be helpful in my experience. Hopefully with lots of root growth the oxygen produced will prevent too much anaerobic build-up.

4. If you see a slight BGA build-up between the substrate and glass (this is normally the first sign) then disrupt is by using a credit card. Slide it between the front glass and substrate. This should stop it from spreading to the substrate surface.

Treatment

There are two main methods to treating BGA. The first is a blackout. Cover the tank completely; do not let any light in at all. Wait for 3 days, no peeking or feeding the fish, then uncover, hopefully the BGA will have disappeared. I have not personally used this method but I am assured it works (except for Houndour’s case – sorry Sam).

The second is by using antibiotics. Remember that BGA is bacteria. Ethyromycine (trade name - Maracyn) is commonly used to rid BGA. It is also highly effective and is apparently fish and plant safe. The whole tank is normally treated via mixing the drug with the tank water. Dosage - 200mg per 10 US Gallon every day for five consecutive days.

I have had good results with Maracyn using another method. I recently witnessed a little BGA build-up between my substrate and front glass. I split a 400mg Maracyn tablet in half, then one half I broke into 8 small pieces. I placed each piece in the infected areas using tweezers. A couple of days later the BGA had completely disappeared. Now I slide a credit card between the glass and substrate every week just to ensure it doesn’t reappear. So far so good (8 weeks on) and I still have 99 ½ tablets left!
 
katchan:

Get a few algae eaters like SAE, shrimp, mollies, Otos, plecs to help you out.
 
Dubby said:
katchan:

Get a few algae eaters like SAE, shrimp, mollies, Otos, plecs to help you out.
[snapback]914543[/snapback]​
In "2'*1'*1' " tank already stocked with 2 Apistos, 6 neons, 2 panda cory's, and a Bristlenose catfish ? I think not..... :no:
 
I had blue green algea once. It was growinf on a plant. I think it got there at the store and then spread quite quickly, i cut off the part of the plant that was covered and it went away like that. I know of no other method of getting ridding of it then physically removing it
 
i had algae in one of my tanks cause i had no space and its near a window so i put a background on and bought 3 of the algae ball plants and within a week of cleaning everyday no more has grown ! I *think* sure someone better with plants will advise but they compete for the same nutrients algae does ! i was so pleased to find a natural solution !
 
If it is Blue Green Algae then no algae eaters will touch it.

There are loads of possible reasons why you have it, high lighting, overstocking, overfeeding, lack of water changes etc.

You need to find the cause otherwise even if you do get rid of it in the short term, it will come back.

What is your watts per gallon?
and does your tank contain any live plants?

Paul.
 
Algae is a plant therefore requiring light to grow via photosynthesis.

Don't use your light that much, I used to tell clients in a store a once worked in to turn the light on wnen you are home to watch your fish.

Most freshwater tanks unlike reef tanks don't need as much lighting unless you have real plants.

My 55 has NO algae in it and it's been running since the end of Dec. Nothing like looking at a nice, clean crystal clear tank.
 
Fry Lady said:
Algae is a plant therefore requiring light to grow via photosynthesis.

Don't use your light that much, I used to tell clients in a store a once worked in to turn the light on wnen you are home to watch your fish.

Most freshwater tanks unlike reef tanks don't need as much lighting unless you have real plants.

My 55 has NO algae in it and it's been running since the end of Dec. Nothing like looking at a nice, clean crystal clear tank.
[snapback]914588[/snapback]​
If the OP has BGA - it's not "algae" or a plant but a bacteria.

Great advice has been given on how to deal with this (by gf225's pinned article) - no fish will touch it.
 
bloozoo2 said:
Dubby said:
katchan:

Get a few algae eaters like SAE, shrimp, mollies, Otos, plecs to help you out.
[snapback]914543[/snapback]​
In "2'*1'*1' " tank already stocked with 2 Apistos, 6 neons, 2 panda cory's, and a Bristlenose catfish ? I think not..... :no:
[snapback]914545[/snapback]​

I am certainly not asking all these to be included in the tank :p its a case of take your pick
 
If it is BGA it photosynthesises just like plants.

Have you got a photo of it so we can confirm it's BGA? I am suffering badly with bga in both of my tanks. After 1 failed blackout and 2 nearly successful (but soon returned) blackouts in my 20 gallon I'm resorting to maracyn.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top