Advice Please On First Timer With Plants.

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Lace

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Hi everyone,

Ok so went to LFS came home with a few plants to get me going and some JBL Ferrapol (24 hour plant food) on advice from shop. The plants don't seem to be doing so well and I absoultely have no idea what i'm doing :unsure:. The plants came in pots with stuff at the bottom - holding all the roots and stems together I think, which I just planted straight into the sand. Do I need to remove the material that is holding the plants together? Do the plants need different food?

Any advice would be great, I will post some pictures below of the plants now, as I have no idea what they are.

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I realise I have gone into this feet first and a little blind ( a lot), any advice will be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Lace
 
A nice big tank with some super fish!

As for the the plants, it's a mixed report that I'd give. For a start, I fear the substrate is too plain and too shallow. To get good growth you generally need a good 8 cm (about three inches) of depth, though this is argued over a bit, some folks recommending more, while others maintain less will do provided the quality of the substrate is good. In any case, I find 8 cm a good number to work around.

About half of this will be the bottom layer of something "nutritious". I get great results from nothing more expensive than pond soil. A bag of this stuff will cost about £5, and would do your entire tank if mixed 50/50 with gravel or silica sand. I like to put on top of this a gravel tidy. Again, you could buy something ready made from a pet shop, but plain green plastic mesh from the garden centre does the job wonderfully for very little money. Choose a weave that's fairly fine; you don't want the netting used to keep herons out of ponds, but something fine enough to keep the bottom layer in place, but coarse enough plant roots can penetrate it easily.

On top of the gravel tidy stick any rocks and bogwood you want, and this will hold everything in place. The good thing with having the "under layer" is that should any fish do any digging, they can't undermine the rocks, preventing slippage. I had to replace a 180-litre tank because a rock slipped down and cracked the bottom pane of glass! So it's a really good safety tip this.

Finally, top the gravel tidy with a few centimetres of sand or gravel as required. This will give your plants some extra depth to dig into, as well as helping to secure the rocks and bogwood in place.

Your plants came packed in rockwool, a greenish fibre with a slightly irritating texture. It's similar to the stuff used for loft insulation. You can indeed leave your plants packed in the stuff if you want, though it's easy enough to remove it from at least some plants without much bother. Either way, stick the plants into the substrate and leave them alone.

A notable exception here is Java fern, which is the plant in the fourth photo down from the top. It's an epiphyte and rots when stuck in the ground. It needs to be attached to bogwood or lava rock, and you can tie it into place using either cotton or (carefully) lead weight.

The last plant appears to be Spathiphyllum (peace lily) or something like that. It's not an aquatic plant and should be treated like a pot plant. It'll die kept underwater, and the brown edges to the leaves seem to suggest it's already starting to die. A good clue to non-aquatic plants is this: if the leaves stay up out of water, or if they have a glossy, waxy surface, they're terrestrial plants. Aquatic plants are usually floppy and their leaves collapse when pulled out of water.

Java ferns and hardy Cryptocoryne spp. (fifth photo) tend to do quite well under low levels of lighting, such as that provided by the standard aquarium hood with one or two T8 tubes. But most other plants need fairly strong lighting, and if you don't get the lighting right, you'll notice your plants slowly failing. Typically they become etiolated first; that is, they develop small leaves widely separated along the stems. Note that this refers to the new growth, not the older growth produced in the greenhouse by the plant breeder.

Feeding plants is best (and most cheaply) done by providing them with a good substrate to start with, and then just add drops to the water as needs be. Fertiliser pellets can be used, but they're hideously expensive for what they are. Contrary to myth, fish wastes aren't sufficient by themselves: in the wild things like iron come primarily from the soil, even if nitrate and phosphate will come from animals wastes and decay.

Cheers, Neale

PS. Plecs eat Amazon swords; this might explain the holes in your specimens!
 
Wow, thanks for taking the time to give me all that information. Looks like I have a lot of work to do!!!

I believe the lighting I have at the moment is : 2x 30W, 2x 40W fluorescent lighting tubes - is this suffiecent or would these need changing. At the moment I do not want to go too heavily planted, but I love the look of the planted tanks and would like a fair few healthy specimens - a natural look.

Is the plant food I am using at the moment ok?, or is there something better I can replace it with, or something weekly rather than daily?

I think my plecs must be being a bit naughty in the night and nibbling my Amazon swords, they spend most of the day hiding!!!

Many thanks

Lace
 
I believe the lighting I have at the moment is : 2x 30W, 2x 40W fluorescent lighting tubes - is this suffiecent or would these need changing.
Proof is in the pudding: if the plants are growing rapidly, and you're cropping back growth every week or two, they're fine. Yes, it takes about a month for some plants to settle down, but after that, fast-growing species such as Hygrophila should be like weeds (which is what they are).
At the moment I do not want to go too heavily planted, but I love the look of the planted tanks and would like a fair few healthy specimens - a natural look.
Personally, I find that only if the tank is heavily planted do I avoid problems with algae. Admittedly, that can include floating plants, so you have flexibility here. By contrast Crypts and Java fern have no impact at all on algae, and in fact are easily smothered by hair algae. So add some Amazon frogbit and some Indian fern, and let these wonderful floating plants use up the nitrate in the water and prevent algae problems.
Is the plant food I am using at the moment ok?, or is there something better I can replace it with, or something weekly rather than daily?
Plant food added to the water certainly helps top up the nutrients plants get from the substrate. But plants with roots (as opposed to floating plants and epiphytes) do need something rich in the substrate. Upgrading the substrate as described above is cheap (under £10, more than likely) and will only take a couple of hours to do.
I think my plecs must be being a bit naughty in the night and nibbling my Amazon swords, they spend most of the day hiding!!!
Yes; some species are merely rasping at the leaves for algae, but Amazon swords at least get destroyed by this.

Cheers, Neale
 
Brilliant, Many thanks. A shopping trip is required :D
 
Ferropol contains no nitrates or phosphates which ain't good, Tropica tpn+ contains npk + trace. Also it's not strictly necessary to go changing your substrate as long as there is sufficient water column fertilisation.
 
Ok so i need to change the plant food? And google water column fertilisation (sorry don't understand this).
 
Sorry, water column fertilisation is just a roundabout way of saying adding ferts directly to the tank water as opposed to root tabs which are substrate ferts.
 
Ahhh brill thanks for that, bit of a plant newbie so need to speak to me like i'm stupid :D lol
 
The flip side to adding fertiliser to the water is -- assuming it works -- is that it is extremely expensive.

A bag of pond soil will do a 150 to 200-litre aquarium and cost under £5; that will easily last you for two years, and quite probably rather more than that, before you'd need to add some an iron-based fertiliser. Once you notice some plants showing some yellowing, you can push some iron fertiliser pellets into the roots of those particular plants, and off you go.

A 250 ml bottle of Tetra Plantamin costs a little under £10, treats 1000 litres, and needs to be added on a monthly basis. You will need to add 5 ml per 20 litres, so for a 200-litre tank that would be 50 ml a month. Your 250 ml bottle would last five months, or just under £50 for two years. This doesn't include the "set up" amount Tetra recommend, which is another 5 ml per 10 litres, or another 100 ml for a 200-litre tank.

In other words, liquid fertilisers cost ten times as much as a bag of pond soil, and arguably don't even work as well. Plant growth in a *real* substrate with lots of organic matter as well as silica sand or gravel is unbelievably good assuming you have adequate lighting. It's not that big a deal to empty your tank, remove most of the sand, add the pond soil to, say, 1-2 cm of remaining sand, and then finish off with a gravel tidy and another layer of sand on top. An afternoon's work that saves you real money in the long run.

Cheers, Neale
 
Cheaper and easier still.....

Buy potassium nitrate, potassium phosphate and trace (CSM+B) in dry powder form from AquaEssentials or Fluidsensor online, and forget about the substrate change. Your plants will take in all their nutrients through their leaves.

Dave.
 
Thanks for all the replys guys, and lots of options for me to think about. Much appreciated, I didn't realise there would be so many options. As the tank is 380 Litres, I think a cheaper option will be better for me :D, will keep you updated.

Thanks

Lace
 

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