Adding Pressurizerd Co2 To Established Aquarium

[blackers92]

Hi Guys

I have ordered my regulator, bubble counter, solenoid, etc and am waiting for all the pieces to arrive. I will be diffusing the CO2 through a Japanese Style Ceramic Diffuser.

At the moment I have a 9 hour photoperiod and dose PMDD and Liquid Carbon daily. What will need to change?

Will I need to cut back my photo period, start dosing 1 bps, cut back or add more nutrients?

I will also purchase a drop check to monitor my CO2 levels within the tank.

Cheers

Adam

 

[JoshuaA]

Personally I never changed anything when I went from Non Co2 to Pressurised Co2. It is my understanding that the demand on nutrients is mostly determined by the amount of light rather than other factors like CO2.

I have kept dosing liquid carbon the entire I've used pressurised, mainly because I felt like it would be a waste not to but hey!

I never cut back on my photo period either but it might be a good idea to at least drop it down to 7-8 hours. Initially I had a start up issue whilst trying to get the valve set right and had staghorn algae outbreak due to unstable CO2. Once the Co2 was set and kept the same at 30 it was fine

 

[ian]

I have never dosed PMDD, but i should expect you'll need to dose a tad more than you probably are. I still dose a carbon source on top of my pressurised C02 (floranaxis), so if you want to carry on with the Liquid carbon its not going to be a problem. It'll be the N and P you're going to have to increase. It won't hurt either to increase your dosing, as long as you're prepared to conduct the water changes. I would personally do alternate day water changes for a week or 2 after installation.

 

[blackers92]

well I have like 150+ days worth of liquid carbon left so I would like to use it up, well that is good then I wont have to do any dramatic changes.

I dont mind doing water changes, obviously my solenoid will take care of the CO2 during the night, I have read that you should inject CO2, 2 hours before lights on and then turn it off 4 hours before the lights go off. Is this also a good method?

Ill up the PMDD, I will probably start the EI method but at the moment I am quite confident with PMDD

Should I try to set the CO2 to 30 the first day? or gradually build it up (or will that be worse for algae?)

This is all new to me

 

[ian]

I have read that you should inject CO2, 2 hours before lights on and then turn it off 4 hours before the lights go off. Is this also a good method?

Mine is set @ 2 hours before the lights come on and 2 hours before the lights go off. This is to make sure the water is saturated with C02 before the lights come on. Plants will normally reach there potential photosynthesis @4 hours after the lights come on. You need to keep an eye on your dropchecker for a while to make sure you don't over saturate the water. Keep an eye on the fish as well, they will soon be gasping if theres to much C02 going in.

Should I try to set the CO2 to 30 the first day? or gradually build it up (or will that be worse for algae?)

I would personally start at 1bps and keep and eye on you fish and dropchecker. 1bps isn't 'normally' a dangerous way to start things off. I'm currently using 2 BPS and my drop checker was always nice and lime green. BTW you'll need some 4dkh water for the dropchecker.

 

[blackers92]

I am planning to order one from ebay that comes with a liquid? I just presumed that it would be the correct hardiness, if not what is the best way to achieve those stats? I have a API Freshwater + GH KH kit so I can test my hardiness, if the liquid does not come with the checker, do I just add baking soda to water until I acheive 4dkh

I also think that the API testing kits for GH and KH are fairly average, they tell you to add until it reaches a colour (green? cannot remember of my head) but not the shade. Pretty confusing compared to their ammonia, nitrite etc

I also dont have any type of airstone, my built in filter has an aeration valve that disrupts the surface which can be adjusted. (Really good when I cant sleep) I was planning on turning the valve off (i have done it before to no ill effect) to remove any surface agitation and keep the CO2 in the water, then if something goes wrong I can turn it back on.

I have been reading about dead zones with CO2 and how some people put the diffuser below outtakes and intakes to circulate the co2 more evenly, do you have any opinions on this? I may purchase a powerhead if my flow is too weak (or upgrade to an eheim 2217)

Adam

 

[TwoTankAmin]

In a planted tank there are two basic objectives, healthy plants and no algae (some may not mind minimal algae but rampant algae nobody wants).

Achieving these goals requires there is a proper balance between the three major factors that effect plant and algae growth. These three factors need to be properly balance just like the legs of a tripod must be equal in order to have it level. The three factors are light (both intensity and photoperiod), carbon dioxide and nutrients (macro and micro/trace).

When these three things are balance, then the plants should out compete any algae which willl minimize or prevent it. however, change any one of these three "legs" and the algae will quickly take advantage. Since every tank is unique, the trick is to find the proper balance in any given tank. A part of this will also relate to plant mass. So even when you get things into balance, normal plant growth or a major pruning will change the demand levels and thus necessitate tweeking things a bit to compensate.

Keeping a planted tank looking great is a combination of having a "feel" for what is up in the tank as well as the science behind it.

The upshot of this is if you change one of the 3 factors, such as adding pressurized co2, you very well may find you will need to adjust one or both of the others.

 

[ian]

I am planning to order one from ebay that comes with a liquid?

it should come with it's Ph solution, however you need to fill your dropchecker with 4dkh water, not with tank water.

if you can't find any there's a recipe here

I also dont have any type of airstone, my built in filter has an aeration valve that disrupts the surface which can be adjusted. (Really good when I cant sleep) I was planning on turning the valve off (i have done it before to no ill effect) to remove any surface agitation and keep the CO2 in the water, then if something goes wrong I can turn it back on.

all you need is a ripple on the water surface, no more. This is plenty enough to O2 the water, the more surface agitation the more C02 you will loose.

I have been reading about dead zones with CO2 and how some people put the diffuser below outtakes and intakes to circulate the co2 more evenly, do you have any opinions on this? I may purchase a powerhead if my flow is too weak (or upgrade to an eheim 2217)

now here the hard part! You will find the best way to diffuse your C02, i have mine currently under a powerhead, 2 weeks ago it was opposite my powerhead, you need to see where you bubbles are being dispersed. Also moving the dropchecker around the tank will help you see where the dead spots are (if any dead-spots). What is the flow like in the tank? We'd normally aim for at least 10x turnover around a tank with C02 injection.

 

[blackers92]

My tank is an all in one, it claims that the output is 1100 LPH so I get about 8 x turnover :\

Will this be alright or should I invest in a small powerhead (Hydor Koralina or similar?)

Cheers

Adam