dannybgoode
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There's been a few posts recently about how much water to change, are large changes safe, what to do when ammonia or nitrite levels are high (and I'm sure there always will be these type of questions - its fundamental to our hobby) so I thought I'd bring a bit maths to the table to show why large water changes are important to keep all the parameters in check.
Imagine you have a situation where you find your nitrAtes are a bit high - 50ppm. So over the course of the next 5 days you change 20% of the water every day.
Assuming your tap water has 0ppm nitrAte (an unlikely scenario but more on that in a bit) at the end of the 5 days, and not taking into account the nitrAtes that will go into the water as part of the bacterial cycle you will still have a reading of 20ppm.
With this is mind, it is quite conceivable that if (as many people do) you are only doing a 20-30% water change every week, over time your nitrAte level may not drop at all and could even increase, particularly given that most tap water does contain some nitrAte.
Now, nitrAte isn't so bad for your fish and regular water changes generally keep things in check but what it you have an ammonia spike? It has been the topic of many a post - q. 'I have an ammonia reading of 4ppm, what should I do?' a. 'Big water changes - 80%+ daily until things stabilise...'
So lets look why this advice is given and why such large changes are recommended. You have an ammonia spike of 4ppm, you ask the question and end up giving it a go but only manage change 50% of the water every day for 5 days.
Where does this leave you?:
Start 4ppm WC 1 2.666667ppm WC 2 1.777778ppm WC 3 1.185185ppm WC 4 0.790123ppm WC 5 0.526749ppm
So, even without the ammonia your fish are adding to the tank and even after doing 50% water changes for 5 consecutive days you are still over the generally accepted 'safe' level of .5ppm (I use the term safe loosely - 0 is always best!).
Lets look at the same regime but with 80% changes:
Start 4ppm WC 1 2.222222ppm WC 2 1.234568ppm WC 3 0.685871ppm WC 4 0.381039ppm WC 5 0.211689ppm
Not until day 4 do levels drop below ,5ppm and that's at 80% changes and without factoring the ammonia being added all the time to the water.
Taking the ammonia being added constantly, even after day 5, to keep on top of things you would have to keep these big big changes up.
I hope this explains why big changes are good (if not sometimes essential) and so long as you match the temp and decholrinate it shouldn't be stressful for your fish - in fact quite the opposite.
Cheers
Danny B
Imagine you have a situation where you find your nitrAtes are a bit high - 50ppm. So over the course of the next 5 days you change 20% of the water every day.
Assuming your tap water has 0ppm nitrAte (an unlikely scenario but more on that in a bit) at the end of the 5 days, and not taking into account the nitrAtes that will go into the water as part of the bacterial cycle you will still have a reading of 20ppm.
With this is mind, it is quite conceivable that if (as many people do) you are only doing a 20-30% water change every week, over time your nitrAte level may not drop at all and could even increase, particularly given that most tap water does contain some nitrAte.
Now, nitrAte isn't so bad for your fish and regular water changes generally keep things in check but what it you have an ammonia spike? It has been the topic of many a post - q. 'I have an ammonia reading of 4ppm, what should I do?' a. 'Big water changes - 80%+ daily until things stabilise...'
So lets look why this advice is given and why such large changes are recommended. You have an ammonia spike of 4ppm, you ask the question and end up giving it a go but only manage change 50% of the water every day for 5 days.
Where does this leave you?:
Start 4ppm WC 1 2.666667ppm WC 2 1.777778ppm WC 3 1.185185ppm WC 4 0.790123ppm WC 5 0.526749ppm
So, even without the ammonia your fish are adding to the tank and even after doing 50% water changes for 5 consecutive days you are still over the generally accepted 'safe' level of .5ppm (I use the term safe loosely - 0 is always best!).
Lets look at the same regime but with 80% changes:
Start 4ppm WC 1 2.222222ppm WC 2 1.234568ppm WC 3 0.685871ppm WC 4 0.381039ppm WC 5 0.211689ppm
Not until day 4 do levels drop below ,5ppm and that's at 80% changes and without factoring the ammonia being added all the time to the water.
Taking the ammonia being added constantly, even after day 5, to keep on top of things you would have to keep these big big changes up.
I hope this explains why big changes are good (if not sometimes essential) and so long as you match the temp and decholrinate it shouldn't be stressful for your fish - in fact quite the opposite.
Cheers
Danny B