4 Newbie Questions

[LolaLouie]

hey guys.. really sorry to ask dumb questions but if you don't ask you never know so here goes..

1) Do you feed corys? I had 2 African Dwarf frogs who I fed bloodworms but they just died and now I don't know whether I need to continue feeding bloodworms for the corys or whether they get enough just from scaveging?!?

2) This is wierd but over the past 2 days my Gourami keeps turning his head as if trying to bite his own tail (so his body is folded like a C), he's been doing it mid swim and also when still. Is this a sign of some sort of illness or something??

3) Any tips on keeping plants looking good other than light and plant grow? I have one of those plants that grow on the Bogwood and between the recent bout of brown algae and the Gouramis nibbling it's not looking too good!!

4) I have just run out of that bacteria stuff which supposedly helps reduce ammonia and nitrites. I'm going for some supplies tonight, are those things a waste of money or do they really help keep the ammonia and nitrite down??

Thanks

Gemma

 

[jennybugs]

I'd let your tank cycle naturally without any 'bacteria stuff' (what's this exactly?), just add your dechlorinator to your new water with each change.

Nibbled plants will recover usually.

I feed my corys algae tabs made just for them, Hikari is the make. When I do feed my fish bloodworms I've never actually noticed if the corys eat any actually. They never get any further than mid level in the tank My corys also tuck into mussels (shelled) and the algae tabs I have for my apple snails too.

I can't answer the question about your gourami sadly. Is there any visible signs of damage to him, ulcers, grains of salt like things on him?

 

[LolaLouie]

Thanks for the help! The bacteria is supposedly bottled bacteria which convert ammonia and nitrites to nitrates.

My Gourami has no other signs of illness just this body curling thing.

My Corys love bloodworm, I always feed the fish before I put the bloodworm in as the frogs were a little shy. I have very peaceful fish in my tank so generally everyone gets their fair share.

Is it ok then to just continue with the bloodworm only for them as they really enjoy it or do they need algae wafers too?#

Thanks again

Gemma

 

[jennybugs]

Is it ok then to just continue with the bloodworm only for them as they really enjoy it or do they need algae wafers too?#

Thanks again

Gemma

No, I believe they must have a varied diet from my knowledge, as do most fish. They need algae/green veg matter as well to stay nice and healthy

 

[Squid]

Is it ok then to just continue with the bloodworm only for them as they really enjoy it or do they need algae wafers too?#

Thanks again

Gemma

Bloodworm should not be a daily thing though, just 2-3 times per week for many community fish. I put catfish pellets (can't remember the name) in for my cory's. They are full of protein and get nibbled by other fish too, but at least they sink and are accessible by the corys. There is a picture of a cory on the tub which is blue (the tub no the cory ooer) , so i guess its a good start for picking a food for them.

Squid

 

[evilchild]

i would leave out the bottle bacteria stuff, let it build up on its own, your plants should regrow, as was said earlier should only feed bllodworm as a treat 2-3 times a week max. can make the fish produce alot of waste. algae tabs, cat fish pellets and things like cucumber are always good, a mixed diet will be a lot better for all typs of fish.

 

[LolaLouie]

Thanks I will buy some algae wafers tonight. I feed the bloodworm about three times a week but it was really supposed to be for the frogs not the fish.

Also i have 1 other question... my pH is pretty high (8.0) and I know this increases toxic levels of ammonia... does anyone know how to lower it without messing around with chemicals??

I have a big chunk of bogwood and a few live plants.

Thanks again

Gemma

 

[brayer]

Thanks I will buy some algae wafers tonight. I feed the bloodworm about three times a week but it was really supposed to be for the frogs not the fish.

Also i have 1 other question... my pH is pretty high (8.0) and I know this increases toxic levels of ammonia... does anyone know how to lower it without messing around with chemicals??

I have a big chunk of bogwood and a few live plants.

Thanks again

Gemma

Hi, If your PH levels are high, then it's normally a good sign that there is Ammonia present !! regular water changes are one of the best things for reducing Ammonia and Nitrite levels approx 25% water change to start with

What are your actual water stats, do you use a liquid test kit or paper strips ???

Ammonia = ?
Nitrite = ?
Nitrate = ?


Cheers.
brayer.

 

[LolaLouie]

I am doing 20% daily water changes at the moment. I also test daily.

My ammonia readings are either 0 or 0.6 (my test only measures at 0 or 0.6 nothing in between)

Nitrite ranges from 0.3-0.8

pH is 8.0

Nitrate is about 100

My tank is not yet fully cycled I guess but it seems to be taking a long time given that I've done a fish in cycle (as I did not know about fishless cycling until too late)

Do those readings sound ok? I know they're not as they should be.

Thanks

Gemma

Oh and I use a liquid test as I read on here that they're the best!

 

[Tobigara]

I am doing 20% daily water changes at the moment. I also test daily.

My ammonia readings are either 0 or 0.6 (my test only measures at 0 or 0.6 nothing in between)

Nitrite ranges from 0.3-0.8

pH is 8.0

Nitrate is about 100

My tank is not yet fully cycled I guess but it seems to be taking a long time given that I've done a fish in cycle (as I did not know about fishless cycling until too late)

Do those readings sound ok? I know they're not as they should be.

Thanks

Gemma

Oh and I use a liquid test as I read on here that they're the best!

First let me say that I think it's great that your doing daily testing and water changes for a fish in cycle

ammonia and nitrIte are a touch high but still kinda ok. maybe do 25% water changes?

NitrAte is too high. idealy it should be zero but shouldn't get above 40-50. again maybe 25% water changes would be better.

Your ph is good for cycling so i wouldn't try to lower it yet. if it goes too low it will stall the cycle and you might have to start over. when you are ready to lower it, try adding more driftwood. however i'm not sure you should. most fish can adapt to a higher or lower ph than that found in their wild habitat. it's the ph swings that are dangerous.

i hope i've helped a bit.

p.s. i'm deffinitely not an expert on aquatic plants but i think you're supposed to trim them now and then. cut off the ugly sections

 

[guppy fan]

Thanks for asking! a few of my questions got answered.

 

[Terriann]

Thanks for asking! a few of my questions got answered.

Sorry, just a quick note, if your gourami is behaving oddly it could be due to your high nitrate and slight ammonia and nitrite, he should feel better when you are all cycled.

Tan