29 gallon tank

fish_r_great

Especially African Cichlids
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Ok I have this light on my 29 the 30" 55 watt
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...3&N=2004+113176

I was thinking of adding maybe a dual bulb flourescent light so that would add 40 more watts and = 95 so I'd have roughly 3 wpg.

Questions

1.Ok Now I was wondering what would be the best filtration?

2.What is a good substrate? Right now I have tahitan moon sand but I don't know if it will be good enough

3.What are good supplements to add for plants?

4.Last what would I use for CO2 ? Would DIY be good enough? I don't want to spend a couple 100 on a CO2 system.

THX in advance :D
 
I've edited the title for you (@9 to 29).

3 WPG is ideal for most plants should give you good growth IF you get all the other aspects of the set-up correct. Ensure you use good quality tubes with reflectors. Aim for full-spectrum, high output. These are initially more expensive but a worthwhile investment if you want the best chance of long-term success.

Your questions -

1) Personally I would go for an external canister filter. These provide more biological media, are easier to maintain than internals and are visibly less intrusive. Go for a model which is rated above your tank volume i.e. Fluval 204. Eheim are a good make too. Ensure your filter output is positioned so that it doesn't agitate the surface, this minimises CO2 loss.

2) Good substrates - Fine gravel mixed with laterite (cheaper), Flourite and Eco-Complete (more expensive). I have no experience of your current substrate so cannot comment.

3) All the commonly available liquid ferts are fine for most situations. Regular water changes combined with fish food and waste will provide most nutrients. If you stock very lightly and/or experience very good growth then you may need to add macronutreints (N P K). I wouldn't worry about this just yet.

4) YOU NEED CO2 with 3 WPG otherwise you will have algae issues very quickly. Get your CO2 set-up and running BEFORE planting and lighting. Aim for 20 to 30ppm constant. DIY CO2 is fine. I recently hepled a few people out with my own design and recipes. Here's the info.

You need -

2 litre plastic fizzy drink bottle with cap
Silicon sealant
6mm drill or similar
3 metre silicon airline/tubing
lots of sugar
dried yeast
bi-carbonate of soda
teaspoon
funnel
weighing scales
measuring jug
water

1. Drill 6mm or slightly less in bottle cap.
2. Insert airline an inch or so in hole and seal with sealant.
3. Allow to dry.
4. Recipe - 400 grams sugar, 2 level teaspoons yeast, 4 level teaspoon bi-carb, 1.6 litre tepid water.
Pour in sugar, add yeast, add bi-carb, add tepid water. Use funnel if necessary (less mess).
5. Attach airline to your filter inlet or diffuser.
6. Watch CO2 bubble away after a few minutes.

This mixture should give a fairly constant output for approx 7 to 10 days. Longer if using less yeast.

Bear in mind you will need LESS yeast (you will overdose CO2 if you don't). Keep all other quantities the same. I'd suggest reducing the stated yeast dose to 1/2 level teaspoon to start with. Experiment with different levels to acheive required CO2 level. You need to buy a good pH and KH kit to test for CO2. There are many CO2/pH/KH tables available on the net. Ensure your KH is at least 50ppm (3 degrees) before dosing CO2 otherwise pH crashes will be possible.

Finally and very importantly you will need to plant heavily with fast-growers from the start. This will ensure your system balances rapidly thus preventing algae from getting a hold. Cover the substrate with at least 50% of plants. Ideal fast-growers; Hygrophila species, Ludwigia species, Ambulia, Water Sprite, Egeria species, Tropical Hornwort and floating plants. Once your tank has balanced and you see good growth with little or no algae then you can gradually replace the fast-growers with slower growing, more delicate/demanding species as per your taste.

Hope this helps and good luck.
 
Ok my last questions are

1. What is a good place to get plants from on the net because I have no lfs anywhere near here with plants except wal-mart.

2. I had plants before so I kow you usually get snails with them how do I stop this because now my tank has a lot of snails.

3. Whats bi-carbonate? I have the 2 liter bottle and stuff made already but I was never told i needed bi-carbonate.

4. Whats tepid water?

5. Fish - I only have a ram, a pair of killiefish, and a plec(L-136) in there right now but, would like to add 3 small loaches and 6 cardinals eventually when would I do this and should I keep the plec or get somes otos instead?


THX for all the help :D
 
1) aquaticplants.com, azgardens.com... you could also try going to some LFS's when you're out of town (thats basically how I got all my plants... only 1 LFS and a Petsmart w/in 40 miles as for Wal-Mart... I don't shop at Wal-Mart)

2) Don't overfeed, snail population is directly proportional to the amount of leftover food and debris in the tank. *This isn't proven or anything, but I think dosing a high amount of trace elements might kill snails. Ever since I started dosing all the snails have died.

3) Bi-carbonate:

Bicarbonate or, more properly, a hydrogen carbonate is a polyatomic ion whose formula is HCO3-. It is the intermediate form in the deprotonation of carbonic acid: removing the first proton from carbonic acid forms bicarbonate; removing the second proton leads to the carbonate ion.

Otherwise known as bicarbonate of soda, or baking soda.

4) Google is your friend... "define: tepid"

5) It's up to you, just make sure that it's a mature tank as cardinals are very sensitive. Oto's are better for planted tanks, but plecos are ok too. It's a matter of opinion I guess.
 

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