125 Planted

Wonderboy

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Hey Everyone at TFF!!!

Here's my plan and I know you guys can help me out!

125 Gallon

I would like to attempt to pull off a nice aqua-scape complete with a glosso-carpet, driftwood, and java. I plan on making my own fertilized substrate setup and running presurized CO2.

This is a pretty big project, and I could use all the help I can get from everyone here. I am just now starting to collect my equipment, but the tank won't actually be setup for about 5 months - planning ahead!
(when I do start going at it - I'll take lots of pictures and write down all progress for a 125 G planted journal)

All help on ALL equipment I would need would be great! (CO2, Filters, Lighting {3 WPG - wow for a 125}, etc.)
-especially if I can save some $-
 
Good Luck :) Can't wait til see how your tank started and finished.
 
I got a planted 145G (UK)

I have 1.6WPG which is fine. The WPG goes out the window for larger tanks. I think it will for your 125G as well.

CO2 I have a 2kg bottle. Its been on for 3-4months now and its not used much. I recon 6months to a year life out of it!!

I have two Rena XP3 filters.

1x 25w sterilser. Not on all the time!! got it for my green water.

Im just in the process of lengthening my CO2 reactor as its not large enough to get enough CO2 into the water without the bubbles escaping and breaking on the surface.
 
Sounds like a great project!

For CO2, I saved a bundle buy getting all my parts at a welding shop. I paid 200 +tax Canadian for a 5 pound tank and regulator. Shop around for these at welding shops, home brewing shops, and if you can find a store that re-fills the co2 tank on the spot, that would be a help. I found a store that re-rills fire exstinguishers. They had cheap tanks as well.

For lights, the WPG rule goes out the window on larger tanks... it has to do with surface area and something else. I read an article, but was confused to bits by it. If you were to aim for 2wpg or a little less, you should be able to grow even the high light plants. Glosso needs lots of light, where the java fern and moss like less light... you could put them in the shade of another plant.

Do you have a list of plants that you would like to keep? Let us know if there are any you want for sure. That will help to figure out the lights and the ferts. You should check out your lfs to see what kind of plants they normally stock, and find out if they would be willing to order stuff in for you. Check out some online plant stores, sorry, I can't think of any of the names that are in the US.

If you are having that much light and CO2, you will want to look at fertalizing. Using the liquid chemicals is very expensive in larger tanks, so have a look at www.gregwatson.com. I get my stuff from there, and shipped to canada it is rediculously cheap. I think I have at least a years supply of the chemicals for under $50 (with shipping)

Have you read any of the pinned articles in this thread? The EI article will show you about the fertalizers, and the lighting and co2 are very useful as well. Don't be discouraged by the EI method... it seems very complicated, but it's really very simple once you get into it.

Feel free to ask us any and all of your questions.
Jen
 
1)...I have 1.6WPG which is fine. The WPG goes out the window for larger tanks. I think it will for your 125G as well.

2)...CO2 I have a 2kg bottle. Its been on for 3-4months now and its not used much. I recon 6months to a year life out of it!!

3)...1x 25w sterilser. Not on all the time!! got it for my green water.

1) That's a relief. I was stressing out looking around for some super lights. I was almost going to get some metal halide lamps.

2) That's impressive. It sounds good. I'm going to look into Jen's way of getting one.

3) Could you tell me more about this? Never heard of it.
 
UV sterilizer use the UV spectrum of sun light the, part that gives you your sun tan on your hols, and burns up some bacteria, parasites, algae spores and certain other elements in the water that plants need for healthy growth.

There a favorite with marine and discus keepers for the above, there usually used in conjunction with a external filter, there hooked up to the out let.
 
1)...For CO2, I saved a bundle buy getting all my parts at a welding shop. I paid 200 +tax Canadian for a 5 pound tank and regulator. Shop around for these at welding shops, home brewing shops, and if you can find a store that re-fills the co2 tank on the spot, that would be a help. I found a store that re-rills fire exstinguishers. They had cheap tanks as well.

2)...For lights, the WPG rule goes out the window on larger tanks... it has to do with surface area and something else. I read an article, but was confused to bits by it. If you were to aim for 2wpg or a little less, you should be able to grow even the high light plants. Glosso needs lots of light, where the java fern and moss like less light... you could put them in the shade of another plant.

3)...Do you have a list of plants that you would like to keep? Let us know if there are any you want for sure. That will help to figure out the lights and the ferts. You should check out your lfs to see what kind of plants they normally stock, and find out if they would be willing to order stuff in for you. Check out some online plant stores, sorry, I can't think of any of the names that are in the US.

4)...If you are having that much light and CO2, you will want to look at fertalizing. Using the liquid chemicals is very expensive in larger tanks, so have a look at www.gregwatson.com. I get my stuff from there, and shipped to canada it is rediculously cheap. I think I have at least a years supply of the chemicals for under $50 (with shipping)

5)...Have you read any of the pinned articles in this thread?

Jen

1) That sounds great, I'd love to look into it, but I don't know exactly everything that I need.

2) Relief! That's saves a lot of straining myself.

3) I would like to keep glosso, but if there is an easier, good-looking foreground plant, let me know! I would like to do a driftwood setup with some java fern on it...perhaps I can shade it under some large swords. I have a great place to get these swords-as I already have a few myself. It has only about 15 leaves, but each leaf is bigger than your hand! Another plant I am going to order from my LFS is the Madagascar Lace Plant. I'm thinking of getting about four or five of these, and I'm going to try clustering them to come away from one side of the driftwood.

4) For fertilization, I have a plan to make my own substrate setup.
To put it basically:
Bottom Layer: 1 inch laterite mixed with sand;
Middle Layer: 1 inch fertilizer (found at garden stores-Not Manure Based); and
Top Layer: 1 inch common gravel
note: If I have nutrient sufficiant substrate, do I need to chemically dose the aquarium water much?

To put it advanced:
I got the info from here... it sounded promising
I'll put in the article I found about it, too. I'll copy and paste it in a new post. Sorry I don't know the author!

5) I have to an extent, but It is so much easier for me to talk to everyone here. You guys always seem to do more for me than pre-written articles (yes they are helpful, but I feel like I'm understanding more by asking the certain questions I feel I need to know more about when I talk to you guys!)

Thanks for the help so far!

-Brant
ps-feel free to ask me any questions about my plans in different areas, and tell me if they are good or bad!

Here's that substrate instructional article:

• Bottom layer, iron rich clay, Micronized Iron or subsoil. This may be mixed with sand. (New) About 2% Micronized Iron by weight is probably plenty. Iron fertilizers containing iron sulphate such as Ironite are not suitable. Pottery clay is a bit difficult to mix with other materials, unless it’s in powder form, so chop it into bits and soak it in water for a week stirring often until its nice and soupy. I like subsoil, it's easy, probably as good as anything and cheap. I sometimes add a little F-T-E, fritted trace elements; (New) about 10 small granules for each square foot of tank bottom (2" depth) are about right according to the suggested usage on the package. Be careful because it's easy to use too much. 10 small granules of F-T-E weighs about 0.12 grams (120 milligrams). That's about 1/70 of a teaspoon!
• Middle layer, (New) 1 inch depth of mixture of garden soil mixed 4 parts to 1 part of fluffy sphagnum peat moss by volume. Since garden soil is about 20 times heavier than peat moss, this is a ratio of 1.25% by weight. This should be one inch deep NO DEEPER!! (see notes). Mix a handful of Micronized Iron with this if you have it to ensure that the soil has sufficient iron. Iron is present in most soils especially if the soil in your garden is good for growing plants. You can also mix the soil with sand if it seems to be too rich. (see notes)
• Top layer, 1 inch depth regular 2-3 millimeter aquarium gravel.

-Info from unknown author.
-I knew the author at the time, just didn't save it.

What do ya think ? ? ? ? ?

-simonbrown403-
Thanks for the help, I understand now. Should I get one?? Thanks!
 
1) For a CO2 setup, all you need is the tank, regulator with 2 dials on it... 1 for the tank pressure, and the other for the outward pressure going to the tank. You adjust the second dial to get the right bubble rate for the tank. You can get a solinoid for the cylender as well, but they are quite pricey. They stop the co2 when the lights go off. You save about half your co2 this way as the plants don't use the co2 when the lights are off.

3) I'll have a look into some of these plants to see what I can find out.

4)I would be very hesitant of adding garden soil to the tank - there could be some unwanted chemicals in there that would be very bad for your plants and fish.

You need to add the other ferts to the tank because the stuff in the substrate only feeds the plants that 'eat' through their roots. Stem plants (which you need at the beginning to fight off algae) feed through their leaves and need the nitrate and phosphate. The other plants will benefit from this as well, and the stuff in the substrate will most likely just provide iron (that's what laterite is)

It looks like we have about the same size - 90 gallons. mine is 4' long, 18" wide and 24" deep. For my substrate, I have 2 20oz packs of laterite mixed with sand, topped off with about 2 inches of sand.
 
1)...For a CO2 setup, all you need is the tank, regulator with 2 dials on it... 1 for the tank pressure, and the other for the outward pressure going to the tank. You adjust the second dial to get the right bubble rate for the tank. You can get a solinoid for the cylender as well, but they are quite pricey. They stop the co2 when the lights go off. You save about half your co2 this way as the plants don't use the co2 when the lights are off.

4)...I would be very hesitant of adding garden soil to the tank - there could be some unwanted chemicals in there that would be very bad for your plants and fish.

You need to add the other ferts to the tank because the stuff in the substrate only feeds the plants that 'eat' through their roots. Stem plants (which you need at the beginning to fight off algae) feed through their leaves and need the nitrate and phosphate. The other plants will benefit from this as well, and the stuff in the substrate will most likely just provide iron (that's what laterite is)

It looks like we have about the same size - 90 gallons. mine is 4' long, 18" wide and 24" deep. For my substrate, I have 2 20oz packs of laterite mixed with sand, topped off with about 2 inches of sand.


1) Sounds great, easy enough (hopefully). I'll look into the solinoid, but I'll probably just turn it on and off each night.

Another question. When is it okay to airate the tank (for the fish) so my fish can be sure to get enough oxygen. Or do my plants create enough for them?? Right now, I have my airation running at night (in my 80)

4) Sounds good, too. I'll just leave it out then and do 2 inches of gravel/sand. And I'll also add chemical ferts. Um, what ferts?

ps - thanks for checkin' out the plants!

-Brant
 
I never turn mine off. I have a hard time getting the perfect co2 rate, so I just let it run all night. I have to play for about 20 minutes when I first set the tank up, and im sure I waste a lot of the gas. I would probably get an extra 2 months out of it, but at $10 a fill, I really don't mind at this stage. I'll get a solnoid at some point, but it's out of my budget at the moment..

There is no need to areate the tank. When you have the lights, ferts, and co2 in sync, the plants add all the water to the tank that you will need.

For the ferts, you need to add nitrates and phosphates to the tank. I'm not going to go big into it, because I can't explane it any better than the pinned article Estimative Index. That will tell you everything you need to know about it. It's long, but a very necessary read. There is alot of work involved at first with all this, and that will tell you exactly. You may decide that you don't want to go into all that. You need to do weekly 50% water changes.. on 125 gallons thats alot of water and time each week.

I would look more into the soil thing. I don't know enough about it to say yes or no.
 

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