Recent content by dannybgoode

Really? Mine are super active, lots of interaction between the fish, raising dorsal fins, sideways swim passes etc. love them to bits, my tank favourites... Cheers Danny B

Corys don't get ich (although they can get a similar disease) but they are sensitive to most meds as you have mentioned. Can you get the corys out so you can treat the rest of the tank full strength? Cheers Danny B

black phantom tetras - 11+ of them. awesome to watch... cheers danny b

Impossible to answer whether a 450l will go through the floor, each property is different. Bear in mind that a tank that size, hen loaded with substrate, rocks, wood and water is going to be nudging 500kg. Best thing you can do is get a structural engineer out otherwise you will never know for...

You could go for the best of both worlds and get a Rena SmartHeater. This is an internal heater but plumbs into the inlet pipe of your filter so water is drawn through it on its way to the filter. They're unbreakable and cool to touch on the outside so plec and algae eater friendly. I have one...

In general it doesn't matter what's in there so long as there is plenty of surface area for the bacteria to populate. This is why ceramic rings and noodles are so popular. Regarding your current set up ou don't need carbon unless you trying to remove meds from the water. Bear in mind you need...

The tetras may end up as Angel food and the tank is no where near bigger enough for silver sharks. They a) need to be in shoals of 6+ and need truly monsterous tanks-8' plus - 10'+ to really do them justice. Why these fish are sold at pet shops is beyond me... Cheers Danny B

I'm not ignoring people, I'm just at work at the moment and will explain when I have a minute... Cheers Danny B

Oh, this wasn't a dig at you at all-it was a general point. Yes, there are certain circumstances when large wc's cause an issue such as the one you described. It was to point out why big wc's are important in certain circumstances... Cheers Danny B

Yeah, sorry about the formatting - it looked ok when I previewed it and then messed up when it posted. You see, you are making the mistake of thinking 40, 20, 10 on the nitrates - it goes: 40 26.6 17.7 11.85 7.9 Etc Its an exponential thing... Cheers Danny B Cheersd

t5 is (I think and am happy to be corrected) the diameter of the tube, certainly something to do with the fitting - nothing to do with the colour. For example t4 is the standard diameter used in ceiling lights etc. Cheers Danny B

Could you post a pic - may help a bit. Personally I don't like the sound of bubbles in aquarium glass but would like to have a gander... Cheers Danny B

Depends how willing they are to learn! Under normal circumstances 50% weekly is probably fine (unless you're into Discus). Its more when there's an ammonia or nitrIte issue that this information becomes more pertinent. Cheers Danny B

+1 for multiple heaters, plus on a tank that size and only 1 heater you'll need good circulation to ensure a reasonably even heat distribution and it will be working harder than multiple heaters would. 2 (or 3 for a tank that size) is the way forward. Cheers Danny B

There's been a few posts recently about how much water to change, are large changes safe, what to do when ammonia or nitrite levels are high (and I'm sure there always will be these type of questions - its fundamental to our hobby) so I thought I'd bring a bit maths to the table to show why...