I wouldn't test for nitrate until after the nitrite starts to build up. No need to waste your test kit on something that won't show up for several weeks. Patience is the key now.
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Once you've seen your ammonia drop you can start testing for nitrite.How will I know there's nitrite?
Normal decor, like rocks and wood won't affect your cycle, but we don't recommend you add plants yet. The reason being that if you have plants in, you'll need to light the tank, and light + ammonia = algae.And is it oka y to add plants during cycling? Live plants?
& correct me if I'm wrong, but normal decorations won't harm cycling will they?
Yes, there's no need to have it on. We only light tanks to be able to see the fish, and to grow plants; if you have no fish and no plants, you're just wasting electricity and encouraging algae growth.
At the top include:
Tank size, filter running...
Tap water conditions after sitting out for 24 hours dechlorinated (pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate - include hardness information if you have access to that information)
Tank conditions:
Date: temp, pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate - dose amount added (if added)
It should look something like this:
50 gallon tank, eheim 504
Tap water: pH 7.2, ammonia (NH3) 0, nitrite (NO2) 0, nitrate (NO3) 10.
Tank conditions: Ammonia dose for 5ppm (15mL)
Date ------temp------pH-----NH3-----NO2----NO3----dosed tank after testing
11/24/11 -- 84F ------ 7.2 --- 5ppm --- 0ppm -- 10ppm --- no dose.
11/25/11 -- 84F ------ 7.2 ---- 4 ------- 0 ------10 ------ no dose.
.
.
.
12/1/11 -- 84F ------ 7.2 ---- 0 ------- 2 ------ 12 ------ dose back to 5ppm.
12/2/11 -- 84F ------ 6.2 ---- 0 ------- 5+ ----- 30 ----- dose back to 5ppm (added sodium bicarb to raise pH)
.
.
.
12/15/11 -- 84F ------ 8.0 ---- 0 ------- 0 ------ 80 ----- dose back to 5ppm (started 12 hour testing)
That will help folks read your data and direct you. The less clutter you have the easier it will be to read the trends. If you can keep everything lined up and one line after another the better it will be for folks to read and advice as necessary. Primarily though, you will just be testing and dosing daily for the vast majority of the time, updating your log with no real need for you to take a single step to "correct" anything. Occasionally something may come up. The cycle might stall or you might see some other anomaly and you might need to complete a water change. Or you might THINK there is an anomaly and think you need to take action. Just post here and folks will help you sort it out. With a fishless cycle there is no need to panic EVER. That's probably the single greatest benefit of the fishless cycle. If you don't act immediately, you aren't harming anything. It might take just a little longer to cycle but in the grand scheme of things what is a few extra days compared to the amount of time you plan to keep fish?