Green, Hair Like Algae.

doresy

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I managed to clear my tank of all algae and slime by experimenting with light times and using an algae treatment.

My tank looked great with just a light patch or two of natural looking green algae which my Otos feed from.

However :crazy: now on several of the (real) plant leaves I have long, green, hair like algae developing. It is very hard to rip from the leaves, it's easier just to cut the leaf off.

Does anyone have any remedies for this curse please? :unsure:
 
Hi Doresy.
I had a similar thing in my tank and was told it was due to phosphates. I brought a GreenX phosphate remover for mine, placed it in the filter and within a week it had disappeared.
 
Hi Doresy.
I had a similar thing in my tank and was told it was due to phosphates. I brought a GreenX phosphate remover for mine, placed it in the filter and within a week it had disappeared.

Hi there :wub:

Oh you're a luv, of course! :rolleyes: I remember that stuff, you usually get a 'tea bag' of it as a free-bee with a new tank.

You can get a big box of it for about 6 quid, yeah? Going in tomorrow

:drinks: ..............love this forum
 
That's the one! :lol:
It's so good to have you back, next time you go on your hols take your computer with you! :*
 
That's the one! :lol:
It's so good to have you back, next time you go on your hols take your computer with you! :*

Off to Italy week after next.......will take my PC to keep an eye on you ;)
 
Last one was a holiday.....this one's work :hey: well sort of :D
 
I lifted this from Tom Barr`s website:

http://www.barrreport.com/barr-report-news...phosphorus.html

I am not sure whether you can read the pdf file at the bottom because it is a subscription website.

Phosphates in the aquarium are an algae nutrient, but they are not a germination trigger. If you want to defeat algae through phosphate deprivation, what levels are you proposing to go down to? I run phosphates at 2 - 3ppm, and I have varied it up and down for an effect, but I haven`t triggered algae yet. Some people have phosphates at 5ppm out of the tap.

I suspect that if I used Rowaphos or the like to remove phosphates, then this deficiency would affect my plants and induce algae. I`ll prove this to myself 100% on a tank I don`t care too much about one day. Doresy, you won`t be doing your plants any favours by making your tank phosphate deficient.

If you have been using algicides, then I guess this has been a recurring problem caused by some form of instability in your tank. Your light levels may be a factor, or you could have a constant source of untraceable levels of ammonia. Have you identified the type of algae you have?

Dave.
 
Thank you Dave for the attention to my topic.

I cannot read that link without going through the registration, will give that some thought.

As far as I can see it is Hair Algae (green) that is my problem. It's not major, just on a few leaves that I have now cut off.

As I mentioned in my OP I've irradicated just about all the brown goo and algae with an algae treatment and changing lighting time.

I now have a few acceptable light patches of green algae that my flying fox and ottos munch on plus this stubborn hair algae.

Today I have placed a pack of 'Fluval Clearmax' (formerly Green-X) in the last stage of my trickle filter (AquaOne Hood Filter). One pack is for 100 litres so as I have 150litres it will not remove all the phosphate which is good, yes? It says it traps phosphates, nitrites and nitrate. I thought that as I have 40ppm nitrate from the tap, it may also help lower it. Tests show I have no nitrite to worry about and my filter is well stocked :good:
I do not have a phosphate test.

It does say reduces algae (Actually, it has a sticker on the box saying algae with a red line through it!) but no mention of plants.
What do you think?
 
The key to algae is realising what it is that triggers it in the first place. Light is the greatest trigger. I have grown some fuzzy green algae in a jam jar of tap water using just sunlight. I have also grown GDA in RO water as well, although this did take longer, especially with the lack of sunlight we have had this year. :rolleyes: If I can grow it in RO water, I have to wonder what levels water column nutrients will need to be reduced to prevent algae growth totally.

We all have phosphates in our tanks to varying degrees and I, like several others on this forum actually add phosphates as part of a fertiliser regime for our planted tanks, to levels where it is a non limiting nutrient. Of course, if we are honest, we have all experienced algae at some time, and will do so in the future as well. So if we are getting outbreaks of algae, and adding phosphates to our tank, are the phosphates causing the algae? Well, we also add nitrates as well, which is also a very popular target for blame when algae appears.

Speaking from my own personal experiences and mistakes, I have caused algae on three occassions, but with help from reading a lot of info from Tom Barr`s website, I know what caused the outbreaks. The first case was BBA and staghorn algae, which appeared when a CO2 bottle had run low without me realising. Under the high light conditions I was running in the tank, limiting plant growth triggered algae growth very quickly. I don`t know what it is exactly about a mass of healthy plants that supresses the growth of algae, but it was the CO2 fluctuation that brought on the BBA and staghorn. I haven`t seen either type of algae since I sorted out the CO2.

The next case was also caused by unstable CO2 when I connected two tanks to one CO2 system using a T piece. It took a few days to regulate the CO2 to both tanks at the correct rate, due to the amounts to each tank drifting for some unknown reason. This resulted in a losing battle with rhizoclonium, which I eventually cleared using a three day black out.

The most recent outbreak, spirogyra, was caused by me rescaping my tank. Disturbing the substrate released adsorbed ammonia in to the water column. From what I understand, and I could be wrong, plants don`t use ammonia when it is at barely imperceptible levels, but the presence of ammonia is another strong algae trigger.

If you are running a heavily stocked tank, it could be that the fish are depriving your filter bacteria colony of O2, reducing their numbers by a given amount. Coupled with the ammonia from fish waste, it could be that a reduced filtering capacity is leaving small amounts ammonia in the water column, and thus triggering algae. Most test kits won`t be able to measure low levels of ammonia, and can be fairly inaccurate at the best of times.

Of course, I don`t know what fish stock levels you have, so I am just surmising, but you may need to look at what is triggering your algae.

The "brown goo" you had was probably diatoms, that use silica to build a shell. They are normally associated with new tanks where there is silica readily available, possibly from the substrate, and I have read that it could even leach from the tank glass when it is first filled. I am surprised your Otos didn`t rid your tank of this type.

If your current algae type is rhizoclonium, then keep hassling and removing it as much as possible. It`s hard to say what your next action should be without a picture to show how bad the algae is, but once I realised I was losing the fight, I carried out a three day black out that got rid of 95% of it (control algae by limiting light, not nutrients). The remainder of the rhizoclonium was constantly removed, with some new growth appearing, but after two weeks it was gone. It has never come back because I knew what caused it (unstable CO2), and remedied it.

Algae can be triggered by light, CO2 and ammonia. In terms of nutrients, its list of requirements is the same as plants. We all have the nutrients in our water column, but we don`t all have algae. Practically everything I have learnt, or indeed misinterpreted, has come from the Barr Report, or from Tom himself, but it has enabled me to understand what I am doing wrong and, more importantly, what to do to put things right.

The only sure fire way to prevent algae is to not put a light over a container with water in it.

Dave.
 
I love alot of these 'this causes algae' information sites. I've only found a small handful (Tom Barr being one) that actually go all out with decent research and testing to find out what does actually increase the likelihood of algae breaking out to an unacceptable level in aquariums. Phosphate in itself does not cause algae. NitrAte in itself does not cause algae. Pottasium in itself does not cause algae.
 

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