In my mind, you've got two options.
For a tank under 30 gallons, an HOB (Hang On Back) filter is a perfectly viable option. Or you could use an external canister filter (I've got a Fluval, but since buying that, I learned that Eheims are much better -- they're supposed to last a lot longer). The canisters are far more expensive than the HOBs, but the benefit is that they're a little more efficient, and can be stored under the tank (or wherever). My 44 gallon has a Fluval external canister, 305, and my 10 gallon planted tank has a Whisper 30. (Overfiltering is highly recommned, especially if you tend to overstock with fish. The bigger your filter, the more space you're giving beneficial bacteria to grow. For a 23 gallon, i'd go with something that at least says it can filter a 40 gallon).
There are technically other options. An internal filter works, but it takes up space inside the tank, so I don't like those. Undergravels are okay too, but I think they're more of a pain and less efficient than the other methods.
I do disagree with Danno on one point (no offense to you Danno!

) -- I don't do the yearly breakdown. I find that as long as I do the gravel vacuuming every week, clean the filter every 2-3 weeks and the filter in-take / return tubing every 6 months, there's no real need for the complete breakdown.
Oh, and earlier you mentioned that it might be a pain cleaning the gravel... it's actually not too hard. There are a couple of different styles of vacuums (I can go on and on about that too... let me know if you want me to!

) and you just kind of dig the tube around in the gravel to get all the gunk up. I left up my rocks and stuff and vacuum under them (well, most of the time anyway!), but in my planted tank I just go around the plants.
Oh - sorry, I almost forgot -- you asked the best way to get started again! First thing, I'd go to the newbie section; at the top of that section there's a "pinned" topic titled something like "Fishless cycling." Have a read of that, figure out what filter you want, start your fishless cycle, and while you're waiting around for the beneficial bacteria to build up, read up on what kinds of fish you want to try keeping again. (Oh, and you'll need a water test kit, too. I recommend the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. It's about $30 at the big chain pet stores. but whatever you do, don't get those test strip things! They're notoriously innaccurate and for some reason many of them don't contain an ammonia test, and that's the most important one when you're starting off!)
Hope that helps...