Still Having Algea Problems

[@ombomb]

Well despite ongoing water changes, I am still having huge algae problems.

Current water stats:

Nitrate - 20 <- adding suppliment to raise to 30ppm
ph - 6.9
KH - 11.5
CO2 - 43
PO4 - 0.5*

*Assuming I am reading the test kit (Red Sea) correctly, but the colour the test is going isn't really the same as any on the chart, but closest to 0.5.

My aquarium is heavily planted, has a break during the day to help fight algea (5 on, 2 off, 5 on) and has 4 x 30W tubes (4000 - 6700K) with two reflectors. I generally add fertilises for the plants twice a week, 1 dose of Kent Grow at water change and 1 dose of Kent Micro two days later (should this be put on hold while the algea is still present?). Many of the plants I have in the tank are "Algea Busters" (3 types of hyrgo, 2 types of Elodea and Amazon Frogbit which spreads VERY quickly.

Dispite the fast growing plants and what I think are pretty good parameters, I am still having to remove a huge amount of this horrible slimey algea every or every other day. I am starting to think that it may be worth stripping the entire tank down, replacing the plants and substrate (from gravel to laterite / sand mix) and starting again, but seeing as I can't really see what is casuing the problem at the moment, I don't want to do this just to find I have exactly the same problem.

The only thing which has given me any hope so far was an accidental extended light spell where I forgot to set the timer again. While I did only add the new plants a couple of days ago and didn't expect them to be a miracle cure, I thought they and the increase CO2 levels would have SOME impact, but the growth yesterday evening was some of the worst I have seen since this started.

I have had the problem for over two weeks now and at the moment, am open to any suggestions on how to beat this, however drastic they may be.

Here's a pic of the algae on my amazon sword, that I had completely cleared less than 24 hours previously:

Pic of my Valis, which again was cleared the prvious day:

Tank pic, BEFORE adding another 4 fast growers:

3 very lazy Siamese Algea Easters (well they won't touch this stuff anyway):

Please help me beat this

 

[zig]

What is your WPG?

Your going to have to start dosing EI to be absolutely sure you dont have any deficiencys in your fert regime or you will never be able to eliminate all the possibilities and may have ongoing problems if you are running a highlight tank.

Dosing a trace mix twice a week probably isnt enough if you are running a highlight tank.

The only way to get bba under control is with co2, pressurised co2, you could try the Seachem Excel but thats not a guarentee it wont come back, but would be a cheap solution for the moment.

Regardless of what way you get rid of it you will end up chucking the affected plants anyway or at a minimum removeing the affected leaves.

If it was me i would try the Excel and see what happens.

 

[@ombomb]

47.5 Gallon tank
4 X 30W bulb
=2.5 WPG without the effect of the two relectors (I estimate 3.25 WPG with reflectors)

The things i, from what I have read about BBA, I'm not sure that is what I have.

Red algae: Also called Black Beard Algae (bba), or Black Brush Algae. Short hairs (1/4" long), closely packed together. Appears dark green, black, or dark red. Grows on plant leaves, and sometimes on decorations/substrate. Often grows all around the edges of plant leaves.

Taken from here

The growth I have seen can get up to about 5cm and is more like slime tentacles than short hairs and comes away from the leaves extremely easily. All you need to do is nudge the affected leaf and the algae comes away. I have been removing the growth by holding my gravel vac near the infected leaf and sucking the algae off.

At the moment, I am managing to maintain the CO2 levels using DIY changing one of two bottles every other day with a high yeast mix, do you really think I need to exchange this for a presurised system immediately?

Do you have a link to hand to order the ferts for EI?

 

[houndour]

I wouldn't recommend pressurized CO2 unless you have the money. It's really expensive and theres no guarentee it'll work. gf used diy for ages and never had algae problems.It's just with diy you have to be strict and replace the mixtures before they slow down to much so as not to cause too much fluctuance in the amount of CO2.

However, if you have the cash, I couldnt recommend pressurized enough cos it just saves time I love it.

 

[@ombomb]

That's the way I've been looking at it...

Changing the CO2 mix is a pain in the bum, but the pressurised kits cost are fair bit and as long as the DIY stuff is donig the job, CO2 is CO2.

 

[@ombomb]

Sulphate of Potash = K2SO4 - Potassium sulphate...?

I'm in the process of ordering the EI paraphenalia and just wanted to confirm this is the right stuff.

 

[zig]

Heres the links for the dry fertilisers, all from the one place to cut down on postage, order 5oo grams of Potassium nitrate and 500 grams Potassium phosphate, you probably wont need potassium sulphate as you will get enough k or potassium from the other 2.

Potassium nitrate

Potassium phosphate

 

[@ombomb]

Cheers zig, I've ordered some SOP just in case.

I have also ordered a different PO4 (API) test kit. Already have a KG / GH / NO3 test kits, best part of a bottle Kent Grow and Kent Micro... anything I'm missing?

It seems you've got another convert zig!

 

[zig]

No i think thats everything you need, the dry ferts will last a very long time so are good value really, just get some RO or distilled water to mix them with, you dont need much, 500ml for each fert is loads and will last ages.

 

[@ombomb]

Do fish shops normally see RO water?

May sound stupid, but if not would boiled / spring water do?

Also how do you test potassium levels? Is it just a case of keeping an eye on the plants?

 

[houndour]

There arent test kits for potassium. But I get the idea that you cant overdose on it and yeah its keeping an eye on your plants really. I think its holes in plants that could point to potassium deficiencies.

Yes, LFS do seel RO water. I got mine from Maidenhead aquatics in Woking. I'm sure the 'Guildford' one does it too.

Think the prob with sprint water is it contains some of the macros/micros. I guess the idea with RO or distilled is that it's pure and wont mess up calculations?

 

[@ombomb]

Cheers Hondour, I usually shop at Maindenhead Aquatics in Morden and they're normally very good when it comes to helping me out in a tight spot.

I'll pop down this week end and see what they have. From the sounds of things a few litres should go a long way.

 

[houndour]

Yeah, they sold me a bag for 50p (was prob about 4 litres). If you're lucky they might give it for free. But I find Maidenhead aquatics are a bit tight sometimes and dont give anything for free.