Python Syphon....how To Get Right Temperature

[Cheffi]

Filled my tank with my new Python (what a brilliant piece of kit it is). However although I'm not at the water changing stage yet I wondered how to get the water back in at the right temp. Anyone with a Python knows it's connected to the cold tap. So do I boil some water in a kettle, add the Aquasafe to that and put in tank last?

 

[bobf]

Filled my tank with my new Python (what a brilliant piece of kit it is). However although I'm not at the water changing stage yet I wondered how to get the water back in at the right temp. Anyone with a Python knows it's connected to the cold tap. So do I boil some water in a kettle, add the Aquasafe to that and put in tank last?

Mixer tap if you have one solves the problem - if not, need to get a 'T' shaped adapter to run H&C into same feed. Add tapsafe to the tank as new water goes in.

 

[Cheffi]

Filled my tank with my new Python (what a brilliant piece of kit it is). However although I'm not at the water changing stage yet I wondered how to get the water back in at the right temp. Anyone with a Python knows it's connected to the cold tap. So do I boil some water in a kettle, add the Aquasafe to that and put in tank last?

Mixer tap if you have one solves the problem - if not, need to get a 'T' shaped adapter to run H&C into same feed. Add tapsafe to the tank as new water goes in.

Does the python have a t shaped adapter as an extra?

 

[andywg]

So long as you aren't doing more than 20%; and you don't keep hyper sensitive fish (read marine; but then why are you filling from the tap and not RO) then you are fine just filling from the cold tap.

If you do a 20% change on a tank at 24 degrees and the mains is at 6 degrees then the lowest the tank will go to is 20.6, and that doesn't take into account the heating effects of the tank (heaters, and heat from pumps etc) nor does it take account of the fact it is nearly impossible to get 20% of a tank's volume in the tank in one instant.

So long as the WC isn't huge, don't worry about temp.

 

[bobf]

Does the python have a t shaped adapter as an extra?

I've no idea - I made my own 'python', easy enough to pick up a T shaped (or Y shaped - whatever) hose connector at your local hardware/DIY store if you want to get one though?

Agree with Andy's comments re smaller water changes but the point remains if making bigger changes you might want to pay more attention to the temp. No harm in getting it close.

All of that having been said, if you're on a stored hot water system (immersion heater) rather than combi boiler type, I wouldn't use the water from the hot tap anyway - likely to have been heated and cooled many times and thus carry metals (copper particularly) and other impurities.

 

[andywg]

Let's be honest though, most water in any domestic water system is carried in copper pipes...I don't know how much worse it would be for the hot water supply. My main worry would be contaminants entering the water through the cold water header tank (usually found in the loft).

 

[bobf]

Let's be honest though, most water in any domestic water system is carried in copper pipes...I don't know how much worse it would be for the hot water supply. My main worry would be contaminants entering the water through the cold water header tank (usually found in the loft).

With a combi boiler - the usual alternative to a hot water storage system, you don't have a cold (or hot) tank or header tank. The water comes straight in from the mains and out your cold tap or straight in, heated through a coiled pipe (which is why you need to run the hot tap a bit longer on a combi system to get to temp) then out your hot tap.

You are right it passes through a copper pipe, but in an immersion system it sits in a cylinder and heats and cools down many times - thats all I was getting at.

I always remember as a kid being told not to drink out the bathroom taps (cos of your point about a header tank) or to use hot tap water for drinking. 'Purer' water (H&C) is one of the advantages of a combi system!

ps - I'm not a plumber by the way - just changed my boiler last year and asked the plumber why he was taking the cold tank out!

 

[andywg]

I too have a combi boiler, but it is still fed by copper pipes. The biggest problem with older hot water system (As alluded to above) is the possibility for contamination.

If you have a marine tank then the increased exposure to coppe is bad, but then any exposure to copper is a bit iffy with marine and to be avoided (hence RO water).

I would be interested to know what type of pipes run through the heat exchanger in a combi boiler, and whether they are copper or not (remembering that once you turn the hot water tap off there will be an amount of water siting in the heat exchanger awaiting the next request ofr hotwater).

None of this is meant to worry, as I have used hot water from both storage heaters and combi heaters with no ill effects, though now prefer filling straight from the cold water, if only due tot he spawning it induces in most of my fish.

I often fear that on this forum a number of members forget that fish can survive some adverse conditions with no ill effects...

 

[bobf]

I too have a combi boiler, but it is still fed by copper pipes. The biggest problem with older hot water system (As alluded to above) is the possibility for contamination.

If you have a marine tank then the increased exposure to coppe is bad, but then any exposure to copper is a bit iffy with marine and to be avoided (hence RO water).

I would be interested to know what type of pipes run through the heat exchanger in a combi boiler, and whether they are copper or not (remembering that once you turn the hot water tap off there will be an amount of water siting in the heat exchanger awaiting the next request ofr hotwater).

None of this is meant to worry, as I have used hot water from both storage heaters and combi heaters with no ill effects, though now prefer filling straight from the cold water, if only due tot he spawning it induces in most of my fish.

I often fear that on this forum a number of members forget that fish can survive some adverse conditions with no ill effects...

Correct again Andy - for a marine tank tap water of any description is a non starter.

My simple point about combi versus immersion was simply this -

You are right it passes through a copper pipe, but in an immersion system it sits in a cylinder and heats and cools down many times - thats all I was getting at.

Not wanting to start a plumbing war and the pipes passing through a combi are v likely copper, but my point above remains. Water out the combi will be less contaminated than water out the immersion - no big deal.

 

[Cheffi]

Does the python have a t shaped adapter as an extra?

Agree with Andy's comments re smaller water changes but the point remains if making bigger changes you might want to pay more attention to the temp. No harm in getting it close.

All of that having been said, if you're on a stored hot water system (immersion heater) rather than combi boiler type, I wouldn't use the water from the hot tap anyway - likely to have been heated and cooled many times and thus carry metals (copper particularly) and other impurities.

Thanks for the advice. I've got a combi boiler and water softener which is why I mentioned boiling water from (unsoftened cold tap) before adding to tank. Also my intention is to use the outside cold water tap/drain which is a) unsoftened and B) conveniently placed outside of the french door nearish to tank so no way of mixing there with hot. However I will certainly bear in mind what you've said about not putting in hot.

 

[andywg]

If you boil the water for 5-10 mins and stir throughout prior to putting it in the tank then there is no reason to add dechlorinator either, as this is the most effective way of getting rid of chlorine and chloramine.

 

[The-Lion]

Does anybody have a link to a site that sells these please

 

[Tolak]

Boiling will remove chlorine, but you will be boiling the water for a long time to remove chloramine.

http/www.ci.mtnview.ca.us/citynews/chloramine.htm scroll around half way down.

A good water conditioner takes care of chlorine, chloramine, ammonia, & any heavy metals. Use a product like Prime to condition, & don't worry as much about your pipes.

 

[Cheffi]

Does anybody have a link to a site that sells these please

If you mean the python I only found one place that sells them, I'm not sure I can put a link but the website is aquatics-online.co.uk

 

[andywg]

Boiling will remove chlorine, but you will be boiling the water for a long time to remove chloramine.

http/www.ci.mtnview.ca.us/citynews/chloramine.htm scroll around half way down.

A good water conditioner takes care of chlorine, chloramine, ammonia, & any heavy metals. Use a product like Prime to condition, & don't worry as much about your pipes.

http/www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen01/gen01377.htm

A simple and effective way to remove chlorine and chloramines from tap water is to boil it for 5
- 10 min. No chemicals needed. Be sure to let the water cool and stir vigorously because the
boiling will also deplete oxygen from the boiled water.

This is from a scientist/science teachers information site and is in direct response to a question on the removal of chlorine and chloramine from water. The person responding is a retired physical chemist with experience in analysis of ground water for trace organic compounds. The water copmany site continually refers to water standing still will not dissipate chloramine, but neglects to point out that it can be gassed out by continual motion (such as boiling and stirring at the same time).

Most of the sites I can find that aren't water companies tend to say that boiling is less effective against chloramine, but not ineffective as the water companies suggest - you just have to boil for longer. These sites also tend to go into detail about the reactions necessary to get chlorine out of the water, rather than just say "you can't do it".