Fluval 252l Shacker - Cycle

[Wade90]

Evening All ,

Hope you’ve all had a nice Christmas.

I’ve been using this forum as a source of info for sometime but never really had the need to post until now. I’ve recently just brought a fluval shacker 252l tank, the tank consists of mainly non live plants, however there are 3 live. The tanks been filled for a day in which I’ve added 25ml of microbe lift nite-out 2 and microbe lift xtreme water conditioner. I’ve also upped the temperature of the tank up to 27c to help speed up the cycle.

I’m in no rush to add fish, however any way of being able to speed up the cycling process is a bonus. from reading on the forum there’s suggestions of adding flake food every 12 hours however this appears to be contradictory from reading replies? I’ve also read that adding media from a cycled tank will speed up the cycling process? In terms of media would this be the sponge for example or the biomedia?could this be placed into the tank? Or would it need to be placed into the pump? is there anything to be concerned about with using media from a cycled tank? Do water level needs to be checked to make sure the readings are correct beforehand or is that irrelevant? Is It worth getting some hardy fish to help?

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Thanks

 

[PygmyPepperJulli]

Hi, welcome (back) to the forum!

1. Have you read the cycling articles? If not I'll attach them. Not saying your a beginner, but it contains the links to different types of cycling that are standard practice.

Cycle Your Tank! A Complete Guide For Beginners

Fishless cycling https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/ Silent or plant cycling https://www.fishforums.net/threads/planted-silent-cycling.470400/ Fish-in cycling...

www.fishforums.net

2. Recently someone had a slight issue using fish food to cycle. I'll attach below. Probably a good read if your thinking of using fish food.
https://www.fishforums.net/threads/is-this-normal-when-cycling.490992/

There are other methods of cycling that'll work, and some of that is discussed in this article: https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-tank-possibly-without-tests.491004/ You don't have to read this, but it kind of discusses some pros and cons of methods and which ones you should probably avoid (this is probably only useful if you have a limited budget like me and didn't want to spend anything).

The official cycling ones are best, but hopefully some of these links are helpful

Happy new year!

 

[Essjay]

The Microbe-Lift bacteria product contains the wrong species of nitrite eaters (their website says it contains Nitrobacter but it's Nitrospira which grows in fish tanks. So it may speed up the first part of the cycle but the second part may be slower.

Whichever bacteria product is used, the bacteria need to be fed. Using ammonia is the best way as food has to decompose to make ammonia and you can never know if enough bacteria have grown to support a tankful of fish. Dr Tim's ammonium chloride is sold on both Amazon and eBay, the dose rate is given on the bottle in drops per gallon, which is US gallons = 3.8 litres.

 

[Wade90]

Thanks Essjay, ordered some

 

[Wade90]

Thought I’d add a update for anyone else looking to do a fish less cycle.

Tank was filled Saturday 30th, took the first reading Sunday 31st which are as follows
Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 0
GH - 14
KH 6 / pH 7.2
chlorine - 0
Ammonia 0.2
tanks a little cloudy which I assume is from the bacteria bloom

Monday 1st Jan
Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 2
GH - 7
KH 6 / pH 7.2
chlorine - 0
Ammonia 0.2

will keep taking readings, waiting on a api test kit and dr Tim’s.

i do have a tank I could use media from, is the media best placed in the tank or in the filter?

 

[Essjay]

Mature media is best put in the filter. You can remove some of the new media so it fits. Then a few months down the line you can take it out and put the unused new media back.

 

[Wade90]

Update.

I've since removed 90% of the water, refilled and started with Dr Tims one and only, dosing with Dr Tims ammonia. Tested using API. I'm in no rush to add fish, and wanted to understand the cycle process rather than rush.

Dosed Dr Tims ammonia as per the instruction of 2ppm. Dosed using 10ml. Bottle states 5ml = 100L so 10ml = 200L (took into account -20% for substrate and decor)

Cycling started as follows
Thursday 11th Jan - Ammonia 0.25ppm / Nitrite 0ppm / Nitrate 0ppm / pH 7.4. This was the first day of the cycle, purchased a 4oz bottle of Dr Tims one and only and used the whole bottle for a 252l tank, added 10ml of dr tims ammonia for 2ppm
Friday 12th Jan - Ammonia 2ppm / Nitrite 0.25ppm / Nitrate 5ppm / pH 7.4 (Testing Day)
Saturday 13th Jan - Ammonia 2ppm / Nitrite 0.25ppm / Nitrate 5ppm / pH 7.4 (Added another 2ppm of ammonia)
Sunday 14th Jan - Ammonia 4ppm / Nitrite 2ppm / Nitrate 10ppm / pH 7.4 (Testing Day)
Monday 15th Jan - Ammonia 2/4ppm / Nitrite 0.25ppm / Nitrate 20ppm / pH 7.4 (Testing Day)
Tuesday 16th Jan - Ammonia 2ppm / Nitrite 2ppm / Nitrate 80ppm / pH 7.4 (Added another 2ppm of ammonia)
Wednesday 17th Jan - Ammonia 2ppm / Nitrite 2ppm / Nitrate 40/80ppm / pH 7.4
Thursday 18th Jan - Ammonia 0ppm / Nitrite 2ppm / Nitrate 10ppm / pH 7.4
Friday 19th Jan - Ammonia 0ppm / Nitrite 2ppm / Nitrate 10/20ppm / pH 7.4

According to Dr Tims instruction after day 8 of the cycle day 9 your able to add fish, however I've not done this. It does state that if your ammonia and nitrite isn't 0.5ppm or lower do nothing other than test until it is. Therefore I've not added another 2ppm of ammonia to the tank since Tuesday 16th Jan. It was stated that dosing ammonia isn't always recommended as bateria can live in the tank for a few weeks, As I've read 0 ammonia and nitrite readings of 2ppm I'm not in favour of addming more ammonia for it to convert into nitrite and further higher the ppm. Is there any reccomendations or is it just a case of waiting for the nitrite level to come down and then dose with 2ppm of ammonia and if within 24 hours the ammonia and nitrite levels come back down to 0 the tanks cycled?

I did think of changing some of the water in an attempt to reduce nitrite levels, and then dose with 2ppm ammonia and continue testing? again on the instruction of Dr tims guide it did state that should the nitrite go above 5ppm change the water, however despite the difficulty in seeing the difference between 2/5ppm for nitrite I always found it to be in between. I've tested the water today and it's definltle on the lighter side of purple so it's @ 2ppm currently.