I bought some Wonder Shell for the snails and shrimp in my tank. But I thought I should check before throwing it in.
Stability or Equilibrium?I have softer water and I keep smails and shrimp just fine. The only tanks where I have some issues are the ones where I have these critters and the tank is heavily planted. There simply is not enough minerals etc. in the tank for it all. Mysolutions is I add a small amount of Seachem Stability to the couple of tanks I have where it is needed.
I actually do it all by eye. The plants actually alert me to deficits before the shrimp or snails do. My goals is to increase the needed minerals etc. without doing so to the point where it is causing big bumps in hardness/TDS.
I also used an RO/DI unit for years for my Altum angel tank. I had stained water in the tank and used catappas, alder cones and rooibos tea for this. Because one cannot test with the traditional colormetric kits when the water is tea stained I have a continuous digital monitor on the tank which gives me numbers for conductivity or TDS, Temp. and pH. Because I need so lower hardness and pH I also sometimes need to add muriatic acid to help push the pH down.
It took me many years in the hobby before I felt comfortable trying to do major parameter changes to my tap water in order to keep wild Altums.
Messing with one's tap water parameters is not an easy task to to in a stable fashion. It is much harder to soften and lower pH than it is to do the reverse.
Next, years ago I had some exchanges with Carl who sells the wonders shells. He is quite good on some things and not so good on others, just like most of us. I bought my UV unit from him but I have never wanted the shells. I use crushed coral and occasionally Stability when needed.
Yes it does, but the rates are important. It also depends on how often and how much water you change. After a water change the GH and KH will not be in equilibrium with the "stone" and the minerals will start dissolving at a greater rate driving the GH and KH up. The result is that the GH and KH will be lowest immediately after a water change and highest just before the water change. If the amount of variation between these extremes is small then it doesn't matter but if they are large, it can pose a real threat to the wellbeing of the fish. Slower dissolving materials will reduce this effect but also have less effect on the amount of hardness desired in the tank. Longer times between water changes will increase the amount of hardness increase in the water but lead to more drastic hardness drops on water change days. This might be one of the cases where large frequent changes could do more harm than good.oesn't the water itself sort of regulate that? I add CaribSea Rubblezone to my 75 gallon and to my shrimp tank (I have very soft water) and it seems like it dissolves just enough to "balance" the amount of calcium in the tank?
I just ordered some of that. I'll bet I could feed it to my grindal worms too.I failed to mention in my above edited post that I use another other thing in relation to Calcium for snails and shrimp. The crushed coral I mentioned I will just drop some into the tank. But I also use some foods which contain extra calcium which I feed in tanks with shrimp and opr assassin snails. The thing about this food is that Ancistrus as well as other bottom feeders will also eat it.
Ken's Premium Mini Vegetable Sticks with Calcium