Why Won't My Phosphates Go Down?

[rdd1952]

I change the ready made cartridges with Marineland carbon in them, which I think is pretty good quality carbon, about every 2-3 weeks. The 330 also has bins in it where you can put extra media and while they've recently been filled with PhosGuard, I sometimes put extra carbon in them. The extra carbon was cheaper so that might be some of the problem.

I would look into another filter media. I don't like or use carbon for the very reason you have mentioned. You must change it too often and when you change it, you are throwing a large part of you bacteria colony in the trash. There are much better types of media available that you don't have to change. I use the Matrix Bio-Max plus the ceramic rings that came with my Fluvals.

Carbon also may be removing any chemicals you add to the tank as soon as they go in. It is primarily a chemical filter and it's main function is to absorb chemicals in the water. Of course, the reason you have to change it is because it becomes saturated and quits absorbing. That is why you have to remove it when you medicate a tank. You then put it back in after you are finished treating the tank to remove the rest of the medication.

 

[aquaticadmirer]

I would look into another filter media. I don't like or use carbon for the very reason you have mentioned. You must change it too often and when you change it, you are throwing a large part of you bacteria colony in the trash. There are much better types of media available that you don't have to change. I use the Matrix Bio-Max plus the ceramic rings that came with my Fluvals.

Carbon also may be removing any chemicals you add to the tank as soon as they go in. It is primarily a chemical filter and it's main function is to absorb chemicals in the water. Of course, the reason you have to change it is because it becomes saturated and quits absorbing. That is why you have to remove it when you medicate a tank. You then put it back in after you are finished treating the tank to remove the rest of the medication.

You don't throw your bacteria colony away with Penguin filters because they have Bio-wheels, which is the main thing that attracted me to them! Bio-wheels are basically a breeding ground for beneficial bacteria seperate from the filter fiber. I haven't had any sick fish in years, but the last time I had one and had to medicate the tank I just cut open the cartridge and dumped the carbon out. After I was done medicating I just either put new filters in or put some carbon in the baskets on the 330.

I like carbon because it is adsorbing impurities from the tap water and some organic compounds created by the fish, so it makes me feel like my fish are a little safer. I don't and didn't have a problem with using carbon until I found out it is releasing phosphates into the tank. But, I did a little research and found that if you soak the carbon in some distilled water first, it will release the phosphates into the distilled water. Then you can move it into the tank without worrying about phosphates. So I think I'm probably going to try that and just keep using carbon. Here's a website I found about carbon that's pretty good:

http/www.algone.com/activated_carbon.php

 

[rdd1952]

I understand the concept of bio-wheels but I have never used them. My feeling, however, is that the bacteria are going to colonize on the first available place. If the water passes through the carbon first, I would think the majority of the bacteria would be there. As I said, this is just gut feeling so I have no evidence to back it up. I just don't like throwing anything from my filter away.

That article pointed out another reason for me not to use carbon. I have a planted tank so it would also filter out any fertilizers that I might add but below is a paragraph from that article that is the best reason of all NOT to use carbon.

"The quantity of carbon needed for an aquarium is about 3 tablespoons of carbon for each 50 Gallons of water. Carbon is quickly used up and can be removed after just 24-48 hours. If left in the system longer, it will no longer serve its purpose."

 

[aquaticadmirer]

Bacteria colonize the bio-wheel in great numbers because it's porous so has lots of surface area, and also stays wet while being exposed to air at the same time so it's ideal for the bacteria. Filter fiber is not small enough to trap bacteria, so it doesn't really matter where it hits first. Bacteria will colonize most where conditions are best. Here's a pinned topic about it: Bio-wheel Filtration.

I don't have a planted tank, so fertilizer removal is not an issue for me. I also think it depends on the composition of the water as to how fast the carbon is exhausted. Most sources say that carbon should be changed every 2-4 weeks, which I do, so I would assume that it's not leaching chemicals back into the tank until that point. Even if it is exhausted after 24-48 hours, it's not harming anything to leave it in there.

So long story short, I'll continue to use carbon in my tank!

 

[InaneCathode]

Second time, UV sterilizer will fix your diatom problem undoubtedly.

 

[aquaticadmirer]

Second time, UV sterilizer will fix your diatom problem undoubtedly.

Yeah, I know that a UV sterilizer would work but they're pretty expensive. Maybe after I graduate in December and start making some real money I can afford one, but for now, this struggling college student is going to have to do it the old fasioned way!

 

[Siamese Fighter05]

Have you tested the phosphate level in your tap water? Could be that it's in the tap and there's nothing you can do.

An RO unit will take the the phosphates coming right out the tap

 

[steelhealr]

You could do some water changes with distilled water, but, you'd need to rebuffer it a bit without adding phosphate. That's a bit of work tho'. SH

 

[aquaticadmirer]

An RO unit will take the the phosphates coming right out the tap

Again, R/O units are a bit pricey for me. Also, the tap usually tests at about 2ppm, which I think would be a lot easier to just remove with a phosphate remover rather than getting a whole R/O unit.

You could do some water changes with distilled water, but, you'd need to rebuffer it a bit without adding phosphate. That's a bit of work tho'. SH

Same for this. I'm serious about trying to reduce the phosphates, but not that serious that I want to carry around gallons and gallons of water, when my Python will do the work for me!


Anyway I started using Pura PhosLock and the directions didn't say how long until it becomes saturated and when I should change it, so I emailed the company with my question and told them about the setup. I got a prompt reply that it is probably not working because the baskets on the Penguin 330 are no good. Water takes the path of least resistance and is just bypassing the media, so basically he told me to move it to behind the filter cartridge so the water is forced though and the levels should drop within 24 hours. So far it's been about 18 hours with no results, but I'll keep everybody posted!

 

[aquaticadmirer]

Just in case anybody is interested, I've finally been able to get my phosphates down. Originally they were off the charts with more than 10ppm, and when I tested today it was down to .5ppm. I think they were just so high to start with that I needed to use lots of phosphate remover. I've been using the PhosLock (putting it behind the filter cartridge) and just had to change it a few times to finally get it down.

I have noticed though that now my pH has dropped a bit. It was at a steady 6.6 for months and I haven't changed my routine at all, but when I tested today it was 6.2. Does anybody know if the phosphate levels might be related to this?