White Spot Outbreak

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TarkMalbot

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I have just noticed this evening that one of my Bala Shark has white spot badly and two others have signs of it on their fins.  My plan is to treat the whole tank as I only have 2 Kribs, 2 snails, a Bristlenose and 7 Glass Catfish (which are also prone to white spot) in there.  Will all these fish be ok with turning the temp up to 28 degrees, adding some salt to the tank and treating with White Spot medication?
 
I will remove the carbon filters too and have done a 40% water change.
 
I wouldn't add the salt, but raising the water temp gradually should be ok for the time of treatment. Just keep in mind the higher the temp the less oxygen the water can hold and with added medication the fish may struggle.  If you have an airstone you could add that to increase temp transfer at the surface of the tank which in turn can aid in oxygen levels in the tank.
Also just check I think glass catfish fall in the catogory of 1/2 doses of medication when treating for things like what spot.
 
To help them in future and even now you can add Indian Almond leaves to the tank, they have amazing healing abilities. I leave them in my tanks 24/7 for the benefit of my shrimp.
 
Hello, this is parasite named ICK, this can be from dirty gravel to plant, fish infected with it, that is why whenever you are going to buy a fish or plant see all the fish if there is something wrong
 
That happened to me last month and I treated mine with salt and it gone
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Ick9.jpg
FishIchWhiteSpotsBlackTetra1.jpg

 
NOTE
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 : I used table salt, just verify it does not have iodide and it is coarse crystal not crushed like these
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And here are the directions:
 In case of serious infection can add 3 tablespoons of salt per 4 liters at once (this can be dangerous for plants). After treatment, the salt is removed by successive changes of water for 5 to 10 days. We may also use for disease prevention at the rate of 1 "teaspoon" of salt per 20 liters of aquarium.

Salt is a drug running slow (20 days for total elimination of germs), respecting the cycle of bacterial filters (if added gradually), used for most species of fish, cheap, does not weaken the fish sick, is not toxic for the handling, not attack aquarium boards, hard on metering, measurable (by specific tests), and does not deteriorate with light and with time. It is ideal for treating the aquarium ovoviviparous (guppies, platys, mollies, sword tails) and goldfish and koi carp (both in the aquarium and in the pond). With these data should not hesitate to use it when and where needed.
 
You might say that This is a big amount of salt but I used on my 10g fish tank and in about 15 days they were gone
 
The white spots will begin to  disappear in about 3-5 days
 
Hope I helped You, Send me a message if you have questions
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HELP!!! I just noticed that my Black Molly has ICH and she is due to drop any day now. I'm concerned for her well-being and that of her fry and all the other fry in the tank... As soon as i noticed she had the spots i immediately changed the filter out and put some medicine that treats ICH in the tank. I have some aquarium salt that i will add to the tank and i also added some Melafix to the tank as well. I plan on doing a partial water change in the morning. Is there anything else i can do to help her so she won't be stressed for her delivery?
 
I had a nasty long lasted outbreak of ich recently. The raised temp (with air stone too) along with the meds is what finally broke us free.
 
Well its treated with 1 tablespoon of salt per 20 litres of water, 40ml of White Spot Treatment and the temp is at 28 degrees.  
 
It only seems to be 2 of the Bala suffering but as the tank is only a few weeks old (cycled with filter media from another tank) so I am putting it down to stress.
 
I will see how I get on.
 
Ok so all the white spot has gone from the fish.  It has only been 5 days so should I just leave it as it is for a few more days?  When should I start reducing the water temp, hoover the gravel, and carry out a water change to reduce the salt content?
 
The white spots on the fish are lesions from where the free-swimming parasite has dug into the fish. If you no longer see them it doesn't mean you've solved the problem as the mature parasite will have swum away from the spot and encapsulated itself in a tomont (in which it begins to replicate itself) which protects it from the white spot treatment that you are adding.
 
Given the above, If I were you I would presume that parasite is in its protective replicative stage so you should continue to treat the water in readiness for when it emerges from the tomont and begans looking for a new host to burrow into.
 
Edit: I'm not too sure about this but I think I once heard that either formalin or formaldehyde is not suitable for use alongside salt so this may be something to look into if you are using a manufactured treatment.
 

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