What Is Safest Way To Treat Ich In Bolivian Rams?

[cattleya]

UK here. I noticed white spots on 4 of my 5 rummynose tetras which were recently added to a tank with Bolivian rams. I want to know what is the way to treat my tank safest for the rams? I also have 2 Endlers, 1 amano shrimp and 2 apple snails but the 2 rams were my first fish and I really don't want to loose them.
All fish eat and behave normally.I added 1 table spoon of salt and increased temperature from 27 to 29 Celsius for 3 days and spots disapeared overnight, after this I brought temp back to 27 Celsius and spots are back. This is just affecting tetras.
I am afraid to increase temp to 30 degrees because maybe it is too high for the Bolivian rams, please help?


Tank size: 95 l
pH:7
ammonia:0.25 ppm
nitrite: 0
nitrate: 0
tank temp:27

Fish Symptoms (include full description including lesion, color, location, fish behavior):
white spots on 4 rummynose tetras

Volume and Frequency of water changes:
weekly 15%

Chemical Additives or Media in your tank:
none

Tank inhabitants:
2 Bolivian rams, 2 apple snails,1 amano shrimp, 2 endlers, 5 rummynose tetras

 

[Blitz]

As long as the Ich parasite is protected inside its cyst, it is virtually impossible to get to - the levels of medication that would be necessary to affect the parasite inside the cyst would kill the fish as well. This is why we must focus on the free-swimming tomite stage when the parasite is much more vulnerable.

Bring up the water temperature to 85-88 degrees F (if you think you fish can handle it).
As mentioned above, Ich can attach itself to the gills of fish and make it hard for them to breathe. It is therefore a good idea to increase aeration in the aquarium to keep the levels of oxygen really high. Adding more aeration is especially important if you increase the water temperature since cool water holds more oxygen than warmer water.
Add roughly one teaspoon of salt per gallon of water. (You can adjust this amount depending on how salt tolerant you fish are.)
Carry out a series of water changes and clean all the gravel. Changing around 50% of the water once a day is recommended.
Continue the treatment for at least one week, since you can only kill the free-swimming Ich parasites. The speed of the life cycle is temperature dependant (it will for instance take three days at 80 degrees F) and continuing treatment for an entire week is recommended to be on the safe side.
If this is not enough to combat the Ich outbreak, you need to visit your local fish store and pick up some anti-Ich medication. Unfortunately, the Ich parasites seem to become more and more resilient towards treatment each year. Lazy aquarists and pet shop keepers are often tempted to constantly use medications to fend off disease, instead of devoting themselves to frequent water changes etcetera, and this makes it easy for resistant strains of parasites and bacteria to develop.

Preventing Ich
Completely eradicating Ich from your aquarium is not easy, and studies show that small amounts of Ich tend to be present even in well maintained aquariums where the fish are in prime condition. Just like the immune system of a healthy person can handle a few germs in the air, healthy fish seem to be able to live with Ich around them without falling ill. If we on the other hand crammed that healthy person into a subway and forced him to stand in a crowded wagon filled with sneezing persons, it might soon be too much for his immune system to handle and he would catch a cold. The same thing is true for fishes – if you place them in a crowded environment, rarely perform any water changes and introduce a bunch of diseased specimens, you may very well have an Ich outbreak on your hands. The best way of preventing Ich is therefore to avoid crowding, perform sufficient water changes and quarantine new fish before you allow them into your main aquarium.