Very soft water

Galvin88

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Hi guys,
Been having a few problems with my tank lately, so decided to test my tap water again.
Ammonia 0.25
Nitrate 0
pH 7.2
I also checked the kh, that was originally 3, now when I put the first drop of the API Kh test, my water doesn't change to blue on the first drop it goes a very very pale yellow as shown in the picture.
Do I now need to raise the hardness of my water during water changes? And if so what's the best way to do this.
Thanks
 

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What fish species do you keep? If you have soft water fish there will be no problem as long as you do regular maintenance and keep an eye on the parameters.
 
What fish species do you keep? If you have soft water fish there will be no problem as long as you do regular maintenance and keep an eye on the parameters.

red tail shark, tiger and oddessa barbs, electric blue acara, botia Dario loaches
 
No that's the one test i dont have, I. Have to pick one up
 
No need for a test, it is usually quite consistent. You can look on your water suppliers website and check the water quality report. If the hardness is not obvious (it could be in various units), link the report here and someone may be able to work it out.
At the moment your stocking seems reasonable with your water. What problems are you experiencing with the tank?
 
On the United utilities website is says harness Clarke 3.36, not sure if that is GH or not.

I'm just getting quite a few fish dealths and alot of algae build up on rocks driftwood and glass,.
the algae is a mix with brown, green and a reddish purple
lights are on 10 hours but that includes a sun rise and sunset, I only feed every other day to make sure I don't over feed. So I was just curious if it was my water quality.
 
Yes, that's GH. Clarke is not one of the units used in fish keeping but there is a hardness converter in the calculator on the forum

3.36 deg Clarke = 2.7 dH and 48 ppm
This is very soft water.

It's maybe a tiny bit too soft for odessa barbs and the acara, but fine for the shark and loaches.
 
On the United utilities website is says harness Clarke 3.36, not sure if that is GH or not.

Yes, that is the general or total hardness (or should be). And it equates to 2.7 dH or 48 ppm. This is very soft water. The KH you gave previously is close, as pone would normally expect. I would not worry about the fish mentioned, just do not add any that require moderately hard or harder water (livebearers, rift lake cichlids, some rainbowfish, and a few others). I think this because of what follows.

I'm just getting quite a few fish dealths and alot of algae build up on rocks driftwood and glass,.
the algae is a mix with brown, green and a reddish purple
lights are on 10 hours but that includes a sun rise and sunset, I only feed every other day to make sure I don't over feed. So I was just curious if it was my water quality.

The fish deaths...you don't say which species, but you have two that are capable of taking a dislike to other fish and then the end is near. Might be able to pin thisw down if I knew the species dying.

Algae makes me wonder about water changes and nitrates. Do you have the nitrate level? And how frequently and what volume are W/C's? Problem algae is caused by an imbalance of light/nutrients, assuming there are live plants present that need this; otherwise it is normal because of the light and nutrients.
 
Thanks for replys guys,
The fish I have lost are ,tiger barbs, and 2 dwarf gouramis.

I don't have the nitrate level at the minute because I did a big water change and scrubbed all the algae off the rocks and glass, I use seachem prime as my water conditioner soI think that would provide a false reading.
I do about a 60 to 70% change a week.
I did have live plants but they all got full of algae and went a dull yellow colour, only plant I now have is jarva fern on my driftwood.
 
That tells us a few things. First, water changes are good. Test the nitrate though, just to see if it is consistent (it should be). Test before the W/C, and after so you can see if there is any increase from one W/C to the next (there should never be). The nitrate level is part of the algae issue, or can be, since varying nitrates suggest an unbalance in the biological system.

Prime should not affect ammonia, nitrite or nitrate test results. Prime does not remove these, it merely binds them so they become non-toxic, but only for 24-36 hours; if still present, they will revert to the toxic form [according to Seachem, all this]. Tests will show toxic/non-toxic forms the same so you cannot tell which from these.

Without live plants, algae will take the light and nutrients and be present. You can reduce the algae if you want to by reducing the light and nutrients. That is up to you of course. The plant issue was light, nutrients or both. I have moderate to low lighting over my tanks, and with no more than seven hours per day (on timers), I eradicated black brush algae and have seen no problem algae for five years now.

Now, the fish deaths...the gourami are not suitable tankmates for nippy fish like the barbs, so this may be the cause of their demise. You may not see the aggression, but it can still be present; fish communicate via pheromones (read by fish in that species) and allomones (read by other species), and they express various "thoughts" via these chemical communications. Aggressive or threatening signals can certainly cause severe stress to the targeted fish, and lead to death. Ironically, the TB may also have been the victim of similar aggression from the Red Tail Shark, if not each other. I don't know how many TB you had in the shoal, but anything less than 8-9, preferably a few more than this, is cause for concern; in larger groups the natural inherent aggression may not show, though this does not affect aggression to other species like sedate gouramis. But the RTS is known to take a dislike to upper fish with a vertical bar/stripe pattern...like TB.
 
others have addressed GH and your fish. However it should be mentioned that plants also need GH to live. GH is measure of calcium and magnesium in the water. If just one, calcium or mangnesium is unavailable a nutrient deficiency will set in and plant growth will stop and then algae takes over. Eventually the dutrient deficiency will kill the plants. Unlesss you address this issue you might loose all of your plants. You probably should increase the GH by 1 or 2 degrees. GH boosters are available and many aquarium shops and will contain both calcium and magnesium.
 

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